I have coil overs on the front of my tube car, but when I see videos of it going thru the traps, the front looks like its bouncing. I'm under the impression the springs are too stiff. The car weighs 2340lbs with my fat ass in the chair, weight distribution is 48-52% to the rear. What spring rate would you think I should be running? The fronts are currently 250lb springs, my tears are 130lbs & the back seems fine.

That kind of looks like it's an Alston Pinto fabricated A-arm deal. And it looks like a Torqueflite. A 3 speed (2.45 low gear x rear gear = a bunch of SLR for a light car with any amount of power). Ladder bar or 4 link? How much power, stroke?

Our car was really close to yours. We started with a 3 speed and went to a 2 speed early on. I used a Koni on the front - 11" extended length, with about a 1/4" of shock shaft showing at ride height. and with a 400#, 7" spring.

The rear used a short IC, an AFCO DA, 16" extended length shock (3850) installed about 13.50-13.75 @ ride height with an 80# spring. We did use a 95# as well. Car drove like a Caddy, even on the rough tracks as long as we didn't have the rear shocks crank way up.

With the 3 speed I would think you could maybe use a 110 if you can get the ride height down where it needs to be, or a 95 with a good shock to control it. That rear spring is waaaay heavy. Your combination will make a difference what you use, but I suspect that 130 is not compressed/holding the shock way out.

The front will depend on how far the lower shock mount is from the ball joint CL and what angle the shock is in on, but I would bet that 250 is squished just to hold the car up.

I am at 2755lbs without my a$$ in the car, so no where near what yours is at. But I only run 95lb rear springs...Your 130lb rear look like they be too much. For my fronts, I think I am down to either 275 or 300lbs.....But I went with longer ones for more travel....Can't remember what I ended up at. Started out at either 400 or 350, and kept dropping down until the ride height I wanted allowed me to put some preload in. Even now though, I only have a little preload in them..

If all is working correctly and nothing is binding, I would tinker with the clicker settings.

The springs only hold the car off the ground, the clickers keep it stable....I like to see some preload in the springs for sure. I would tighten your rear clickers one or two clicks to start with that and see what it does. My car went thru the traps the other year and bounced a couple times....Tightened them up in the rear one click and it stopped doing that...

The rears were 250 when I got the car & I changed them down to 170s n then 130s where the car seems to hook better. The fronts barely move at all, even with soft settings on the clickers. With the car off the ground & on the ground, the front shock only moves 1/2" which is why I'm thinking they're too stiff. At present, the setting is just high enough to slip the jack underneath to lift it up.

Whats the compressed height of the spring? 250s will take 250 lbs to compress 1 inch. At 48 52 weight percentage and 2340 weight you have 1123 lbs on the front. You cant count total weight as there is unsprung weight there too so to make it easy lets say 1000lbs or 500 each side. Each spring should compress roughly 2 inches.

I just put 10 inch 250 lb springs on my car with a front weight of 1425 lbs. I figured they would compress around 3 inches per side at that weight. And they ended up around 2.750.

I think you might be right and you are on the stiff side.

You don't want all that front shock travel on the front of that car. That looks like a 5" or 6" travel shock more suited for the rear of the car. Whoever put it together has the upper mount way up and they're running the thing nearly the whole way out to keep it from having 6" of travel. That's a half a$$ way of doing things. It needs to have the upper mount moved down and a proper short shock like a Strange S5002 put on it with the appropriate spring. The correct length spring will be 6" shorter and it will be in the 400# area. You change the length, you change the rate.

That's why I couldn't believe it had 250s on an a-arm deal. The right shock will be at about 9.25" or 9.50" at ride height.

130s are way to much on the rear. What shocks are on it, what is the installed length at ride height there?

Do you have struts? A arms are a whole different ball game as far as springs are concerned.

Struts? I wish lol.

I replaced the steel single adjustable Koni on my S/P car this winter with a double adjustable set from Afco, they recommended 350 lbs. springs due to the car weighing 2750 Lbs. with me in it. 46% on the rear a with 54 % up front.
I haven't ran it yet but it made the ride height taller than I like so I may get a set of 300 Lb. springs for it after trying it

Same situation, 12" spring with a long shock. Car is a little different as well. You wouldn't use that short shock unless it was on the ground with a Mustang II front clip or similar. You may want or need 4 or 5 inches of separation. But a 2300# car with 53% on the rear and a SLR likely well above 10:1 doesn't need or want it. The weight is already back there.

Yep I know its a different animal. My car will be 52 48 if I am lucky and most likely 53 47. He is still a lot lighter up front though. I used a 10 inch spring. Compressed to 7 1/4 inch the other week when I mocked it up with all the weight added back on the car. I know the angle plays a part in addition to the location of the LCA mount too.

Are your rear shocks mounted if front of, above or to rear of your rear axle?

compressed height of the spting with wheels off the ground is 6.25"
wheels on the ground 5.50"

A arms as vper pic, no struts here

to the rear, its a Dana 60

then your rear spring rate is too high as the others have stated.

Sure doesn't look like a 6" travel shock to me considering no motor in and its in the air sitting on jackstands.

OK, 5". My point was that chassis should have a shock with an extended length of 11-11.5" and maybe 2.5" of travel, maybe. This is what it should look like. That's fully extended. Granted the Koni snubber is a little longer than most.