Application? I've seen nothing at all indicating the truck's application. For what purpose are you going to use this 3/4 ton 4x4?

For application I was referring to not building a high flow sport motor for a heavy 4x4.

That being said, it is my only vehicle, so daily driver. Eventually it will become more of a toy though. I want to paint it up, (it's a stepside) and try to make it pretty. I want to put 33 or 34 inch tires on it and a mild lift kit (2 or 3 inch) without losing power from where it is at now. I'd like to break the 300 horse barrier really so that I can say I did. I've been wanting to do that for 10 years now. My application is daily driver/chick getter I reckon.

Oh, you're welcome, glad I could help!

In a 5600 pound 4x4 QuadCab I'm getting around 17mpg with my 360 Magnum at 60mph and no wind. I'm turning 285/70/17's which is the same as a 33 inch (and they are heavy, and yes, they suck the power out of it) with factory 4.10's and 46re overdrive. The only tricks I've done is electric fan, no catalytic convertor (huge difference) and true dual exhaust. The 360 lasts forever too, mine has 313,000 miles and hasn't been touched.

If that's your First Gen in your signature you are referring to, you should get 1 to 2mpg better than Me. You are just about a thousand pounds lighter.

With all the money you save from aluminum heads, stroker cranks, intake manifold, headers, 4bbl carb suggested above (about $3500.00, great job as usual on the Truck advising, Idiots ), you will have money left over for a NV3500 transmission.

I did have another thought after I posted my original response: from time to time I see complete V10's with transmissions for around $1500.00. It's something for you to consider, because they are a heck of an engine, make torque for days, and last a lot of miles. My Family has owned a V10 and I can't say enough good things about them. Have money set aside for speeding tickets. Fuel mileage-wise they are decent on the highway (15 to 16mpg) but are heavy in town and winter driving.

Wow 313,000!!! Mine just ticked over 100,000 and using about a quart every 750 1,000 miles. Besides that though, it has been pretty reliable. And yes, that First Gen is my babe

Somewhere I thought the OP was asking what was the best Aluminum heads to put on his daily driver Dodge 4X4 with a 4 speed.
Well, I guess this idiot (ME) gave some bad truck performance advice. Sorry. Disregard all I have said.

Just to refresh my mind I quote the OP:

Texas Backroader, what is your budget?

The 318 is a good platform to start with. Does it need rebuilding at 100,000 miles? This is where you have to ask your self, if it needs rebuilding and if it will need new pistons, the machine work is not cheap.

Many engine shops in Texas can make you a drop in crate motor that will be about the same as a rebuild but will maybe cost a bit more, but they do the work.

Getting a used Hemi or a V10 will also require you to rewire the truck with a computer control and all its sensors, fuel tank and fuel lines. You will not be able to use your 4 speed so get the trans that goes with this Hemi or V10. Your stock dash will not work with them so kobble up the dash too. You may get most of these items with a wrecked Dodge truck.
And making motor and transmission mounts to fit. Then the front suspension would need boosting for the weight of the V10.... Lots of work. But it will run real well.

I think it will need rebuilt. At a minimum, I'll probably freshen everything up (crank bearings, cam, pistons, gaskets, and it will likely need bored). I haven't priced machine work, (correct me if I'm wrong) I assume about 500-1,000. I always keep a millage book, and over the past 90,000 miles, it has dropped about a mpg. I used to get a 12.1ish per tank on a good day, with most tanks in the mid/low 11s. In the past 10,000, I have noticed a sharp drop. Now I make 11 on a good day.

For budget, I'd prefer not to exceed 4,000 and I won't exceed 5,500. I generally don't want to do a lot of pulling/reinstalling. So, I want to redo the bottom end all at once. I might purchase a block with heads/crank for no more than $400 and build it up so that my truck isn't out of commission very long. I am a little sentimental, so I was set on a 318 because it would be/look like the original. I'm just starting to consider a 360 Magnum lower end because it seems like it could be more financially feasible to gain some power and keep/gain torque for a heavy vehicle. Even if I do a Magnum though, I will probably buy a timing cover from Hughes to use my LA belt system and add a carb compatible intake to try and clone the hopped LA look. In the end, I might save money because I would inherit the Magnum heads. Plus, (correct me if i'm wrong) good roller magnum rockers are a little cheaper (370 for Crane) but the stock ones probably wouldn't need replaced. The cheapest good review roller rockers I found for my 318 (basically everything not Speedmaster) were over 550. So + 400 for motor + 150 more for hydraulic roller lifters + 60 for the LA timing cover + 30 for the cam snout + 20 more for the Magnum Air Gap than the LA one - 550 for the rockers - 750/1250 (or more) for heads = about $1,000 savings in favor of the Magnum if I don't replace the rockers. Although, the Magnum heads could be cracked. So, some of that money would go to the machine shop. Decisions decisions

I like to work with my hands and have always wanted to build an engine, which is why I haven't really considered a crate engine. This is the last summer before I graduate, so I am kind of hoping I can have some fun building it with my dad before I commission. When which, I'll only have the time to tinker with it between deployments.

Thanks for the responses everyone!!!

Iron heads are pingers when you really load them, when you have the truck floored only turning 1500-2000 with a heavy load climbing a hill . My 360 is 8.4 to 1 and needs 93 and will still ping under those extreme situations. Depends on how hard you are really going to pound them. A trip down the quarter is a walk in the park. Watch some truck pullin videos that's more akin to what we put our trucks through. One difference in truck pulling is those guys spin the tires, turning some rpms, ours are glued to the ground dragging rpms down.If the 318 is in sound condition, put a aluminum intake, 1850 holley, headers, and a good tune (timing and carb) and pound the ---out of it.


wanna go a little more small cam and fresh valve spring ( paying close attention pushrod length, when changing cams--which some times leads to adjustable valve train, or change to pushrod length). Next would be heads I want to say I have a set of 302's that I have spent a good amount of time with I would not use these cylinder heads on anything larger than a 318. Mine have 360 vales and some port work, go 240cfm but the port is so small that I think that at this point they are choked. If its in the budget aluminum heads would probably be good helping to prevent pining.

ultimately get a 360 block and plan a build...p.s. 4" cranks might not be much more $ but there is more to it than that. Especially compared to a crank polish and re-ring job.

Turbo V10 First Gen, 653 lb/ft torque:

The heads come with nice 5/16 stem swirl polished valve, I just deburred the rough edges were the seats were cut.

I know all too well the Deployment and personal life being put on hold. I did 20 years all active and all over the world.

I added up all the costs of doing an engine for my 78 Little Red Express. After adding all the parts and then the machine work including balancing it was just a little bit more to go with an ATK short block crate 5.9 4 inch cast iron stroker 410ci from SummitRacing. $2550.
With good heads, a large cam and better intake this engine is good for 600 HP. I am no where near that level..... for now. It is internal balabced so it will work on a 318 flywheel but I am not sure if the bolt pattern is the same.

I have a set of stock 5.2 iron heads that I was going to do a pocket port and then have the seats cut for some 2.02/1.62 better valves but Mancini was having a sale on some 'Overstock' Eldabrock alumimn heads for a Magnum and the costs were less than a full reman of the iron heads when I added new springs, valves, retainers and bronze guides.. This was a super deal but they are out of stock now. For two heads it was $1400 with shipping.

Dodge Dakota shortie stainless headers. $225 My LRT has dual exhaust STACKS so just re-piping to join them is simple. Adding an X pipe crossover to replace the factory H pipe.

Many companies make Magnum roller cams with the longer snout for the fuel pump eccentic, I went with a Luniti that for a 410 cube is a mild grind. $210

I went with a deep sump oil pan from Milodon for $329. It is 10.75 inches deep and holds 8 quarts of oil but I will only run 6 quarts and cut the dipsticks tube down so it shows full. This will help keep oil from splashing on the crank. But for a lot less, Kevko has a better rear sump truck pan, like $265 and their special oil pump pickup tube for that pan is $59. To save money a stock 360 truck pan works on a Magnum.

I spent a lot more for some upgrades and such so I am over the $5,500 range by about $1,200. But it will make about 420+ Horsepower and 500 footpounds torque.

My D150 based 2wd LRT is a lot lighter than your W200 4X4. It is still an 'Aero Brickwall'. I'll be running a 3.21:1 Suregrip and 265/70 15 tires so my RPMs will be a bit lower but with a Auto 727 and a 2800 stall lock-up trans and 500 Ft/Lbs torque it may be fun.

There are non-Magnum stroker 410 kits out there too.

This is a Web picture but mine will look about the same.

A used stock magnum 5.9 for $400 is what I would be looking for....they are common.

Very COOL truck Dave_J.

So, if I'm trying to avoid detonation, would aluminum be better than stock magnum heads? Or, is it about the same as long as the heads have closed chambers? I have done some more research and read some threads that say tight quench lowers chance of detonation. Does quench just work on lighter vehicles, or could quench work on a heavier vehicle like mine as well. Also, do y'all know/have any experience with Huges's cams? I'm thinking about calling them for a cam.

Thanks for the responses