I'm thinking it's about time to round up a set of aluminum heads for a 451 build that I've been dragging my feet on. I'll post general build details below but I guess I'm looking for suggestions on what heads would be the best bang for the buck. I've always had a thing for ported cast iron heads but this time I'm thinking it's time to take the leap. So, given the options out there, what do you guys recommend for the application? Pros and cons to each?

73 Roadrunner "400/451"
440 forged crank and LY rods
Ross Pistons. (12.5:1 + Compression)
MP 312/590 Cam
Weiand Tunnel Ram with 660's or M1 Single Plane
4 Speed Transmission
Dana 60 w/ 4.88 gears

FWIW, I'm not married to this cam and may consider going roller instead. Also, I will eventually being spraying the motor although how much and what method has yet to be determined. If I stay single plane, I will most likely start with a Zex plate kit I've got sitting here. If I go with the tunnel ram, I'll most likely end up direct port but that's another topic.

Anyhow, let me know what you guys think. Appreciate the help as always! - Trent

Do you want good cheap aluminum 440 type heads or great for making power aluminum heads?
If cheap 440 headsthe Edlbrock E street heads are probably the best deal for the money, they do have small combustion chambers so you may end up with more compression than 12.5 to 1
if you want more power you need better heads like the Indy SR M.W., Indy 440-1 CNC ported or the Trick Flow 270 heads with M.W. size intake ports or better
I have a set of B1 originals and another set of B!-MC heads that I'm hoping to make over 900 HP on E 85 on both large C.I. motors
Speed cost money, how fast do you want to go and how hard do you want to work

What cab said. But I would definitely buck up with better rods. Your asking for trouble with those old rods.

If you go E street they come in both 75-84 cc chambers

Plenty of great threads on aluminum heads here if you do a search.

The two things that stand out to me are the stock rods and the 4.88 gear.

If you are running nitrous you need a lot higher gear and the rods will crumble like Keebler cookies.

I think you should look more at the HP goals of your engine. There are several rules or formulas but one is, HP = 0.25714 CFM x No. of Cylinders. In other words it takes so much CFM of flow to support so much Horsepower, so what is your goal? Next what is the RPM range you want to run, or that you have parts to support? Runner length and size is determined by how many RPM you want to run. Pick your HP and RPM, then pick best bang for the buck in cylinder heads that have the correct flow and port size. Good engine software, makes these decisions easy to make. After you pick the heads, then the camshaft, intake, and headers to match the heads gives the best results.
I don't build lots of engines, but I get so many guys who collect a pile of parts, and then expect me to make them 800HP. Then I look at them and say I can not make 800HP with these parts, because you selected parts that don't complement each other. So do you build the engine, and they are disappointed with power output, or do you tell them to take it home, and they are disappointed because you won't build it? Most of the time it is not an issue with bolting it together and reliability, it is quality results.

That's not a nitrous cam.
Need better rods.

if your going to spray it and run a 4spd I would add aluminum main caps and a bcr stud girdle

I run the Ross domes in my 440 for 12.5 also.Just remember that Eddys with angle plugs will hit.You have to have the pistons fly cut to clear is what machinst and also Nick at Compuflo when he was alive>I went with the Stealths from 440 Source.Mine were one of the first sets sold.I did change springs,locks,and retainers for my big solid cam Been on for years and no problems.Rocky

Go with the higher end heads, may cost more now but you will have a lot more options later...say if you go with a higher lift roller cam, bigger valve springs, etc. Definitely change the rods. I would also start looking at stud kits and ARP fasteners.

I run Indy EZ's on my 493 but If I were building it over again today I would have gone with Trickflows. They are a much nicer casting and they would require less cleanup to make them really nice. Either way I would buy them from someone who knows race cylinder heads to give them the once over before you install them. They look like you could just bolt them on out of the box but it's best to have them checked before you bolt them on
I would really re-consider the choice of rods though and you will need to balance it anyway with those light Ross pistons.

Gus

Thanks for the input guys. As I sit here in my chair this evening, I realize I have alot to work out still. I suppose if I was going to start working the math backwards, I would be looking for 10.90's. According to my rough napkin calculations, I would need approximately 550+HP / 270CFM. I'm not an expert, nor did I stay at a Holiday Inn last night so bare with me, but I'm not sure that's not a tall order for this motor N/A. Obviously reducing weight and/or spraying would get me there but if I do decide to use nitrous, I would be hoping for better than 10.90s but that's a different subject... Back to the heads, it looks like 270 CFM isn't asking alot from many of the aluminum heads I'm seeing out there but that only seems to be a fraction of the equation. From plug angle as mentioned above, port location, intake runner cc's, valvetrain interchange, etc, I still have alot to research...

Let's say that I already had the short block machined years ago, (because I did...) and already had it line honed with stock main caps using ARP studs, balanced with the "LY" rods using ARP bolts, square decked, etc. what would be a realistic HP and/or RPM without going back in and swapping the rods or main caps? Assuming a target of 550HP and I assume a max RPM of 6500, (again, guessing) where does this put me with regard to optimal intake runner CC's as I feel like that's the next variable I need to determine. While I would not mind utilizing a head that is capable of flowing more in the future, I hate to shoot myself in the foot with to big of a runner in the interim. That being said, thoughts on port size, when to go Max wedge, etc?

Anyhow, let me know what you guys think. I appreciate the help on this. I've screwed with cast heads for so long I never ventured out into all the variables associated with aftermarket heads. It's a whole new world to me. I'm sure I'll be glad I did when it's all said and done though. -Trent

Heres my 2 cents .
Its a low deck so i would go tf240 or cnc stealth . TFlow would probably make a little more power .
I went 10.90s with cnc stealths and a snaller ft cam , 258@050 - .520 nett lift but was auto , 4.1 gear .

Run what you have and see where you end up

Tex

My

I run a 440 source stroked 383 its around 489 CID Approx. 10.9:1 compression, Indy 440-sr heads race port.
this is a heavy car approx 3600 Lbs. The car has run 11.87 @ 126 mph with a 60 ft of 2.6s which has been an ongoing problem with the car (4 speed)
If you do the math this car should be in the mid 10s if it ever hooked up, The Indy heads didn't come with out a lot of work, they are not a bolt and go head.
Push rod clearance was one of the issues and the valley plate sealing to the heads was another, but when done the heads make great power and and all your stock parts will bolt on.
they can be opened up to a max wedge port depending on the intake you want to run, I run a mechanical 6 pack setup so im running standard size port.
Its been together for over ten years mostly street with a little strip time for fun.

In this day and age the last aluminum head I would consider would be the cnc’d Stealth head. There are way to many better options out there today. The Stealths are a great option for the guys wanting to keep the stock appearing look so it will always have its use. If you are looking for performance ProMax, Edelbrock, Speedmaster, etc can all easily flow over 300 cfm. Indy Sr’s, 240 TrickFlow and a few others will get you even more. If you want to rotate the earth you can step up to 270 TrickFlow, Victor heads ( probably my last choice) ported 440-1 heads will flow over 370 cfm in the right hands or even more if you want to get away from the 2.19 valve which I am currently doing. If you hit the lottery 400 plus cfm options are out there. Lots of great choices for us Mopar guys in today’s market.

Well if you want straight spark plugs for header clearance to use parts you already have, as best I know
that narrows it way down to only two, Stealth and MP "aluminum 452" but I'm not sure if MP even still sells them
as most of the product line has been killed off.

Stealth tries hard to appear stock, partially succeeds, and partially fails because it doesn't
have a fake heat crossover. That is one area I always thought they should really change (but maybe that comment
will be deleted/how dare I criticize an advertiser/whatever).

I've used regular edelbrock RPM heads on my low deck for several years, and haven't
had any huge issues with the angled plugs. Couple different sets of headers, on one set I had to work
two tubes very slightly for clearance but nothing drastic. I also had to make sure I didn't install
the most gigantic plug wires and boots I could find, as so many seem to want.

Any of them should flow enough to do what you want.

You know I think it all depends on your perspective, budget, and what work you're willing to do.

1 thing I didn't see mentioned was headers for your low deck so just adding more for you to think about is how big do you want to go to take advantage of the extra flow from let's say a MW head

i think these are the MP452 heads. it says they are straight plugs and they list a MP part number for cross reference. they are also on clearance...
https://www.manciniracing.com/edperpmcyhe9.html

Yeah, I think Mancini has had a few batches of those + others made without any logos on the end.

Worth a call to see.

I still chuckle thinking of MoparBilly pushing his stock LYs into the 8’s on spray....