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Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2765516
04/18/20 02:30 PM
04/18/20 02:30 PM
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jb500 Offline
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"The shroud is riveted tight to the radiator. I don't think much if any air can escape it"

This may be some of your issues at speed. However, before going down that rabbit hole get it to stay at a constant temp at idle or low/slow speed driving. The electric fan on/off temp needs to be brought down and then see what happens.

Re: new distributor [Re: jb500] #2765567
04/18/20 05:08 PM
04/18/20 05:08 PM
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Rittman Ohio
fourgearsavoy Offline
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You really have to know where your timing is at cruise RPM then I would try another carb if you can get your hands on one. The heat increase on cruise tells me lean condition or possible timing issues. This is assuming both radiators you tried made no difference.
Gus beer


64 Plymouth Savoy
493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow
5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box
Dana 60
Re: new distributor [Re: jb500] #2765596
04/18/20 06:19 PM
04/18/20 06:19 PM
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Mt Morris Michigan
mopar dave Offline
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I have one of those type shrouds and it does effect it big time. You will need a bigger fan if you choose to keep that shroud as i posted earlier. How do I know, I fought same issue last summer and my shroud has holes it for some extra air flow. I now have fans that move much more air, if it still wont cool going down the road my mechanical fan and shroud goes back on.

Re: new distributor [Re: mopar dave] #2765663
04/18/20 09:26 PM
04/18/20 09:26 PM
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700+hp B1 street motor with mechanical fan in my car for the last 15 years never gives me problem overheating. The wife's racecar/dragweek car was a pain getting hot after changing to the milodon water pump and hhr fan no more problems.

Need timing info might be some of your problem

Re: new distributor [Re: Dart451] #2765731
04/19/20 12:27 AM
04/19/20 12:27 AM
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wine country
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took my pops for a ride in his car today.... yup overheats when driving , cools when stopped. the shroud must not let enough air flow during car movement.

still backfires off idle...

here is a plug, they all look like this.

I don't have much room for a fan, id love to put in flex fan, but I just don't know if it will fit. I have 3" total from the face of my water pump to the face of the radiator. seems like a 383 in a big ol' B body would have more room?

20200418_090810.jpg
Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2766007
04/19/20 04:09 PM
04/19/20 04:09 PM
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idle timing set at 16*

still does pop.

I hit the gas it does nothing for 1/2 a second then goes, or it pops and backfires, and has died a few times. If this were a 2 stroke i would say LEAN! does this apply to 4 stroke as well?

Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2766015
04/19/20 04:36 PM
04/19/20 04:36 PM
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Rittman Ohio
fourgearsavoy Offline
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Originally Posted by 8urvette
idle timing set at 16*

still does pop.

I hit the gas it does nothing for 1/2 a second then goes, or it pops and backfires, and has died a few times. If this were a 2 stroke i would say LEAN! does this apply to 4 stroke as well?


Do you have access to another carb and can you set total timing at 34 degrees? base timing doesn't really matter with this topic you need to know where it is at 2000-2500 and the base will be whatever it is twocents
At this point in your process you have to rule out ignition or fuel ratio so you know what it isn't shruggy
Gus beer


64 Plymouth Savoy
493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow
5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box
Dana 60
Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2766018
04/19/20 04:42 PM
04/19/20 04:42 PM
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Mt Morris Michigan
mopar dave Offline
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I haven’t followed this post all the way thru, but do you have good pump shot? I would adjust your mixture screws using a vac gauge. Adjust 1/8 turn each screw til you get max vacuum, then another 1/16 turn each screwLeave it there for now. Do this with low rpm and in drive. As long as you have ignition advance and enough fuel, there should be no hesitation or pop. If that doesn’t fix, than there’s something more serious going on with it.

Re: new distributor [Re: fourgearsavoy] #2766041
04/19/20 05:47 PM
04/19/20 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by fourgearsavoy
Originally Posted by 8urvette
idle timing set at 16*

still does pop.

I hit the gas it does nothing for 1/2 a second then goes, or it pops and backfires, and has died a few times. If this were a 2 stroke i would say LEAN! does this apply to 4 stroke as well?


Do you have access to another carb and can you set total timing at 34 degrees? base timing doesn't really matter with this topic you need to know where it is at 2000-2500 and the base will be whatever it is twocents
At this point in your process you have to rule out ignition or fuel ratio so you know what it isn't shruggy
Gus beer



the only other carb i have is a 1050 dominator... that won't help.


on 2nd through i have a 650 holley on a SBC... runs great on a very mild 350
i need to get my other timing light from my parents house to set total timing, ill try to do that soon.

Re: new distributor [Re: mopar dave] #2766042
04/19/20 05:47 PM
04/19/20 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mopar dave
I haven’t followed this post all the way thru, but do you have good pump shot? I would adjust your mixture screws using a vac gauge. Adjust 1/8 turn each screw til you get max vacuum, then another 1/16 turn each screwLeave it there for now. Do this with low rpm and in drive. As long as you have ignition advance and enough fuel, there should be no hesitation or pop. If that doesn’t fix, than there’s something more serious going on with it.



i did this, just not in drive. i did it in park. does that make much of a difference?

Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2766047
04/19/20 06:14 PM
04/19/20 06:14 PM
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Romeo MI
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i did this, just not in drive. i did it in park. does that make much of a difference? [/quote]

Makes a big difference
wave

Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2766085
04/19/20 08:07 PM
04/19/20 08:07 PM
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jb500 Offline
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Originally Posted by 8urvette
Originally Posted by fourgearsavoy
Originally Posted by 8urvette
idle timing set at 16*

still does pop.

I hit the gas it does nothing for 1/2 a second then goes, or it pops and backfires, and has died a few times. If this were a 2 stroke i would say LEAN! does this apply to 4 stroke as well?


Do you have access to another carb and can you set total timing at 34 degrees? base timing doesn't really matter with this topic you need to know where it is at 2000-2500 and the base will be whatever it is twocents
At this point in your process you have to rule out ignition or fuel ratio so you know what it isn't shruggy
Gus beer



the only other carb i have is a 1050 dominator... that won't help.


on 2nd through i have a 650 holley on a SBC... runs great on a very mild 350
i need to get my other timing light from my parents house to set total timing, ill try to do that soon.


Is your current carb a vacuum secondary variant or a double pumper? It looks like a vac sec from your pics. Have you done any "performance mods" to your carb?

Re: new distributor [Re: jb500] #2766087
04/19/20 08:10 PM
04/19/20 08:10 PM
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The carb is a vac. Secondary, no mods done to it. All stock.

Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2766114
04/19/20 09:18 PM
04/19/20 09:18 PM
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Mt Morris Michigan
mopar dave Offline
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Ok, here’s something else to check. Pull the cover off the vac secondary spring housing and look to see it still has its check ball. Without the check ball the secondary opens a tad quicker and can cause an instant lean condition because there is no pump shot at the rear Venturi. Make sure the diaphragm is still soft and in good condition. One other thing performance wise and I know it can be combo specific, but the purple spring works good.

Re: new distributor [Re: mopar dave] #2766139
04/19/20 10:29 PM
04/19/20 10:29 PM
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So i started over fresh trying to tune the idle screws on the carb.

warmed up and idling at 850 in neutral- (this is how holley says to do it)
adjusted initial timing to increase vacuum, finally get 14 in. idle screws, get me to 15" at one turn out from closed, after that i just lose vacuum. readjust idle to keep it about 850, timing set at 16*ish.

When i did these steps with the car in drive I only got it to give me 11-12".. and the idle screws really didn't change anything at any point.

Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2766173
04/20/20 01:34 AM
04/20/20 01:34 AM
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Does the accelerator pump squirt as soon as the front throttle shaft moves? scope If not make sure it does, instant squirt is needed, especially off idle.
I've seen and fix a bunch of "stock' Holley carbs that didn't, they all needed the pump arm screw lengthen to preload the accelerator pump properly scope wrench
You should have between .010 and .020 additional movement at WOT on that screw, that is why it is adjustable with the spring in it scope

Last edited by Cab_Burge; 04/20/20 01:35 AM.

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Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2766203
04/20/20 08:02 AM
04/20/20 08:02 AM
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Mt Morris Michigan
mopar dave Offline
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well, less vacuum in drive is normal. 1-2 turns is spec, so your in spec and at one turn your idle circuit(IFR) sounds rich enough. You will loose vacuum when the screw is too far out as that's making your engine unhappy. I would still have a look at that secondary vacuum pod. One other thing to check is the secondary blade adjuster screw. It may be right out where you can see it or could be under the throttle plate. If under the throttle you will need to remove carb, flip upside down to adjust. You will have to look up spec, but you don't want those secondary blades open too far at idle.

Re: new distributor [Re: mopar dave] #2766385
04/20/20 04:45 PM
04/20/20 04:45 PM
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Ok, I have a purple spring and no ball in the secondaries.

The small screw to adjust the vacuum secondaries is on the bottom, o off came the carb. The play or gap is in spec.

I adjusted all the valves, they were all a bit tight. like 1/2 turn too tight. i used comp cams suggestions, as it is a comp cam. I took the wiggle out and then did 1/2 turn. They are a bit noisier but, I gained 1" of vacuum.

Idle timing at 20* car responds well, however all in around 3k im at 50*

I found a leak in the trans, the guy who rebuilt apparently didn't tighten the front pressure port plug after testing, so it is leaking. have to wait for the exhaust to cool down before i remove, seal and reinstall.

I pulled the electric fan off, ordered a flew fan spacer, will install as soon as it arrives. luck Hope this helps cool the motor. I would think at 220* i would start to see some pinging or detonation on pump gas in a 10 to 1 motor. shruggy Maybe not?



Last edited by 8urvette; 04/20/20 05:25 PM.
Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2766444
04/20/20 07:17 PM
04/20/20 07:17 PM
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Mt Morris Michigan
mopar dave Offline
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I would find the correct ball bearing and put back in there. It may or may not be your issue, but you need to cover all ground to eliminate all possible problems. The too tight valves may cause a pop like that. I use the 1/3 turn after the rocker is quiet method, but 1/2 should be fine. I have even lashed hydraulic cam,s at 1/4 turn with good results on a smaller cam. 20* initial is good, but I like to see about 35* total all in by 2500-3000 with vac advance hose unhooked and plugged. 50* is fine cruising, but you might want to try driving with it unhooked just to see if it has too much timing cruising, that can cause over heating. I did that once on a 69 roadrunner with a original 383 4 speed. Too much timing over heating it and I couldn't figure out why, but was told too much timing could cause over heating. Motor blew a piston before I found that out. Sure did run good thought. I was 18 then and didn't know any better.

Re: new distributor [Re: mopar dave] #2766476
04/20/20 08:46 PM
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this distributor has no vacuum advance...

Tomorrow my flex fan adapter will arrive, and ill try that again and eliminate the electric fan all together.

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