new distributor
#2760921
04/06/20 10:06 PM
04/06/20 10:06 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 781 wine country
8urvette
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 781
wine country
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Hey, I am looking for a new distributor for my 383, med aggressive cam, aluminum heads, etc... I have been running a locked out 440 source distributor but am thinking i need something that can fluctuate the timing a bit (I borrowed this from my race car.) I am looking at the hyper spark distributor from holley. https://www.holley.com/products/fue...er_efi/hyperspark_ignition/parts/565-305The plan is to upgrade to sniper efi in a few months assuming things settle down..... this distributor will give me timing control with the sniper. However i do not have the sniper currently and want to know if this distributor will work with a MSD 6al setup for now, does anyone know?
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Re: new distributor
[Re: 8urvette]
#2760941
04/06/20 11:20 PM
04/06/20 11:20 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,552 Rittman Ohio
fourgearsavoy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,552
Rittman Ohio
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I'm still running a Firecore distributor with an MSD 6AL and it works very well with my engine. Gus
64 Plymouth Savoy 493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow 5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box Dana 60
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Re: new distributor
[Re: 8urvette]
#2760954
04/07/20 12:07 AM
04/07/20 12:07 AM
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Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,457 Washington
madscientist
master
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master
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,457
Washington
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okay, thank you very much for the info.
I am just trying not to buy 2 distributors. The one i have now either starts the car great but has no top end, or has great top but won't start for sh!t. also it seems to run the exhaust very hot, im thinking this is too late of timing causing more to burn in the exhaust than it should. anybody have a good timing recommendation for a mild 383? You need to get the distributor AND the box on a distributor machine and set the curve and account for the retard in the box. Once you fix the curve, what you have will work.
Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
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Re: new distributor
[Re: madscientist]
#2760970
04/07/20 01:01 AM
04/07/20 01:01 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,116 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,116
Bend,OR USA
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okay, thank you very much for the info.
I am just trying not to buy 2 distributors. The one i have now either starts the car great but has no top end, or has great top but won't start for sh!t. also it seems to run the exhaust very hot, im thinking this is too late of timing causing more to burn in the exhaust than it should. anybody have a good timing recommendation for a mild 383? You need to get the distributor AND the box on a distributor machine and set the curve and account for the retard in the box. Once you fix the curve, what you have will work. You nee to check the timing at idle RPM and then check it again at or above 5000 RPM to see what it has at idle and rev up It sounds like your current distributor may have one weight stuck and that is not letting the mechanical advance work properly I like to see from 12 to 16 degrees advance before top dead center at idle and right at 34 to no more than 36 degrees advance before top dead center revved up :twocents Stock Mopar distributor are not hard to fix or modify to make them better for performance use, I do my own and have had really good luck with them, my current S/P car runs n the high 8s at 150+ MPH with one I modified
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: new distributor
[Re: 8urvette]
#2761274
04/07/20 09:42 PM
04/07/20 09:42 PM
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Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,457 Washington
madscientist
master
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master
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,457
Washington
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okay,
so timing at 15*, 18* no change I see water kinda move through the radiator when the T-stat open but it certainly doesn't rush. I have another water pump sitting on my 540 that isn't running at the moment.
I may steal that and see if the problem gets resolved.
this is my dads car... he said he has had this issue before. he said it always overheated. This is the 3rd radiator and the same pump and housing. aftermarket aluminum, but heck maybe its no good.
Thoughts? High flow water pump High flow thermostat Speed up the water pump. Looks like the water pump pulley is pretty big. The pump should turn faster than the crank.
Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
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Re: new distributor
[Re: 8urvette]
#2761288
04/07/20 10:11 PM
04/07/20 10:11 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,116 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,116
Bend,OR USA
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I bought and used aluminum radiator for my old Duster, it worked fine for the first summer at 160F to 165 F at road speeds above 70 MPH with 4.10 gears and 315x60x15 M/T ET street radials, the next spring it was running above 210 in the spring with the same conditions I called a radiator shop that I trusted and they said bring it in, they must have clean it or something else that made it work fine again for that summer and fall. The next year the same thing, my message is some aluminum radiators must corrode or cake up inside when sitting during the winter up here I use a good brand of antifreeze(good too -40F) and I think I added a water pump lube and rust preventer in with the anti freeze. I did the garden hose test in the top inlet with the radiator cap on and the bottom outlet opened and it flowed all the water my 5/8 garden hose would flow into it at full blast Maybe someone on here knows a good aluminum radiator cleaner to use to flush them out that will help them cool better
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 04/07/20 10:14 PM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: new distributor
[Re: 8urvette]
#2761454
04/08/20 11:51 AM
04/08/20 11:51 AM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,336 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,336
north of coder
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if your pusher fan REALLY moves 2000cfm, your problem is there. you need at least 3000+ cfm to even get close to cooling anything for any length of time. most aftermarket fans are FAR from accurate on their CFM ratings. you need a bigger fan, one that draws lots of amps, to stay cool. and since yours is a pusher, [pullers are WAY more efficient] it needs to be bigger than you think. just my opinion, your results will vary.
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Re: new distributor
[Re: 8urvette]
#2761679
04/08/20 07:58 PM
04/08/20 07:58 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 781 wine country
8urvette
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 781
wine country
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Another work day done and no closer to it running cooler.
I swapped the radiator from a top to bottom flow to cross flow style, the top to bottom is 3- 5/8" tubes inside, and the cross flow is 2- 1" cores.
I added a spal fan that flows a unreal amount of air... i can feel it pulling air from a 14"-16" in front of the radiator.
i turned the idle up to 1000-1100 and richened the carb. it stinks when idling.
it hits 220 and drop back to 205 and lives in between 210*-220*
What gives????
The top of the radiator (the return) is very hot by the time it makes it way down to the bottom inlet i can hold my hand on the radiator. I have tried multiple gauges, sending units.. they are all very close.
Cam timing be off???? any ideas?
HELP
Last edited by 8urvette; 04/08/20 08:10 PM.
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Re: new distributor
[Re: 8urvette]
#2761681
04/08/20 08:05 PM
04/08/20 08:05 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,116 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,116
Bend,OR USA
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Are these tests being done in the driveway or from driving the car?
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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