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new distributor #2760921
04/06/20 10:06 PM
04/06/20 10:06 PM
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8urvette Offline OP
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Hey,

I am looking for a new distributor for my 383, med aggressive cam, aluminum heads, etc...

I have been running a locked out 440 source distributor but am thinking i need something that can fluctuate the timing a bit (I borrowed this from my race car.)

I am looking at the hyper spark distributor from holley. https://www.holley.com/products/fue...er_efi/hyperspark_ignition/parts/565-305

The plan is to upgrade to sniper efi in a few months assuming things settle down..... this distributor will give me timing control with the sniper. However i do not have the sniper currently and want to know if this distributor will work with a MSD 6al setup for now, does anyone know?

Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2760925
04/06/20 10:17 PM
04/06/20 10:17 PM
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Oregon
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AndyF Offline
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The Hyperspark is a locked out distributor. All it has inside is a sensor that tells the EFI system what the RPM is and where #1 is. It won't work with your MSD system so you'll need to wait until you install the Sniper before you can install the Hyperspark. The Sniper + Hyperspark is a great combination but you have to add them together.

Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2760941
04/06/20 11:20 PM
04/06/20 11:20 PM
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Rittman Ohio
fourgearsavoy Offline
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I'm still running a Firecore distributor with an MSD 6AL and it works very well with my engine.
Gus beer


64 Plymouth Savoy
493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow
5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box
Dana 60
Re: new distributor [Re: fourgearsavoy] #2760947
04/06/20 11:34 PM
04/06/20 11:34 PM
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8urvette Offline OP
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okay, thank you very much for the info.

I am just trying not to buy 2 distributors. The one i have now either starts the car great but has no top end, or has great top but won't start for sh!t. also it seems to run the exhaust very hot, im thinking this is too late of timing causing more to burn in the exhaust than it should.
anybody have a good timing recommendation for a mild 383?

Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2760954
04/07/20 12:07 AM
04/07/20 12:07 AM
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madscientist Offline
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Originally Posted by 8urvette
okay, thank you very much for the info.

I am just trying not to buy 2 distributors. The one i have now either starts the car great but has no top end, or has great top but won't start for sh!t. also it seems to run the exhaust very hot, im thinking this is too late of timing causing more to burn in the exhaust than it should.
anybody have a good timing recommendation for a mild 383?


You need to get the distributor AND the box on a distributor machine and set the curve and account for the retard in the box. Once you fix the curve, what you have will work.


Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
Re: new distributor [Re: madscientist] #2760970
04/07/20 01:01 AM
04/07/20 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by madscientist
Originally Posted by 8urvette
okay, thank you very much for the info.

I am just trying not to buy 2 distributors. The one i have now either starts the car great but has no top end, or has great top but won't start for sh!t. also it seems to run the exhaust very hot, im thinking this is too late of timing causing more to burn in the exhaust than it should.
anybody have a good timing recommendation for a mild 383?


You need to get the distributor AND the box on a distributor machine and set the curve and account for the retard in the box. Once you fix the curve, what you have will work.
iagree
You nee to check the timing at idle RPM and then check it again at or above 5000 RPM to see what it has at idle and rev up scope twocents
It sounds like your current distributor may have one weight stuck and that is not letting the mechanical advance work properly scope
I like to see from 12 to 16 degrees advance before top dead center at idle and right at 34 to no more than 36 degrees advance before top dead center revved up up :twocents
Stock Mopar distributor are not hard to fix or modify to make them better for performance use, I do my own and have had really good luck with them, my current S/P car runs n the high 8s at 150+ MPH with one I modified up


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: new distributor [Re: Cab_Burge] #2761077
04/07/20 11:45 AM
04/07/20 11:45 AM
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8urvette Offline OP
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The distributor is locked, no advance, nothing.
The original had an issue that would not keep timing. It would bounce all around at idle up to 20 degrees +/-. Then didnt advance much to all of a sudden about 50*.
Trying to figure out the issues, we replaced that one with what is currently in, the locked version. It settled the timing issue but there is no advance.
Maybe just buy a mopar distributor in the meantime to work out the other bugs in the car.???

Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2761086
04/07/20 12:24 PM
04/07/20 12:24 PM
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lewtot184 Offline
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sounds like you need either a start retard or a properly re-curved centrifugal distributor.

Re: new distributor [Re: lewtot184] #2761232
04/07/20 07:32 PM
04/07/20 07:32 PM
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okay, as of now I found a 440 source distributor sitting on a shelf at my parents house.
I installed it and set the timing at idle when warm at 12* BTDC

The car starts up, idles nice. i slightly tuned the carb based on vacuum and idle speed.

Here is the issue, it gets real hot. like 240* hot. The radiator is 3 core aluminum one.

There is a pusher electric fan that moves roughly 2000 CFM, I did the water burp thing with the giant cup sitting on the radiator.

I pulled the thermostat and checked it out with a thermometer in a bot on the stove it opens fully around 190*

is it a bad water pump????

coronet.jpg
Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2761240
04/07/20 07:48 PM
04/07/20 07:48 PM
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Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY Offline
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Advance the timing.. try it at 18* to start with.. open the cap and see if its moving water
wave

Re: new distributor [Re: MR_P_BODY] #2761246
04/07/20 08:07 PM
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will do! thank you.

about to eat dinner then ill give it a go.

Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2761263
04/07/20 09:10 PM
04/07/20 09:10 PM
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okay,

so timing at 15*, 18* no change
I see water kinda move through the radiator when the T-stat open but it certainly doesn't rush. I have another water pump sitting on my 540 that isn't running at the moment.


I may steal that and see if the problem gets resolved.

this is my dads car... he said he has had this issue before. he said it always overheated. This is the 3rd radiator and the same pump and housing. aftermarket aluminum, but heck maybe its no good.

Thoughts?

Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2761274
04/07/20 09:42 PM
04/07/20 09:42 PM
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madscientist Offline
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Originally Posted by 8urvette
okay,

so timing at 15*, 18* no change
I see water kinda move through the radiator when the T-stat open but it certainly doesn't rush. I have another water pump sitting on my 540 that isn't running at the moment.


I may steal that and see if the problem gets resolved.

this is my dads car... he said he has had this issue before. he said it always overheated. This is the 3rd radiator and the same pump and housing. aftermarket aluminum, but heck maybe its no good.

Thoughts?


High flow water pump
High flow thermostat
Speed up the water pump. Looks like the water pump pulley is pretty big. The pump should turn faster than the crank.


Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2761288
04/07/20 10:11 PM
04/07/20 10:11 PM
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I bought and used aluminum radiator for my old Duster, it worked fine for the first summer at 160F to 165 F at road speeds above 70 MPH with 4.10 gears and 315x60x15 M/T ET street radials, the next spring it was running above 210 in the spring with the same conditions panic
I called a radiator shop that I trusted and they said bring it in, they must have clean it or something else that made it work fine again for that summer and fall. The next year the same thing, my message is some aluminum radiators must corrode or cake up inside when sitting during the winter up here whiney shruggy I use a good brand of antifreeze(good too -40F) and I think I added a water pump lube and rust preventer in with the anti freeze.
I did the garden hose test in the top inlet with the radiator cap on and the bottom outlet opened and it flowed all the water my 5/8 garden hose would flow into it at full blast shruggy
Maybe someone on here knows a good aluminum radiator cleaner to use to flush them out that will help them cool better luck help

Last edited by Cab_Burge; 04/07/20 10:14 PM.

Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: new distributor [Re: Cab_Burge] #2761300
04/07/20 10:51 PM
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8urvette Offline OP
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So I stole the high flow or high volume water pump from my 540, swapped it over. I drained the coolant from the bottom hose in the radiator, so the block should have also been pretty empty.

I refilled with pure water and ran it with the bubble burp jug on the radiator. I would squeeze the upper hose until no more bubbles came out. The water moved much more this time. It hit 220 and stayed there, the fan would come on late ( bad thermo switch?) And hold it between 210 and 220 sitting in the drive way.

New plan is to add water water or coolant and see if it can drop to 200* and stay there.

I appreciate everyone's input and assistance. It is great to have you all as a resource.

Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2761454
04/08/20 11:51 AM
04/08/20 11:51 AM
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moparx Offline
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if your pusher fan REALLY moves 2000cfm, your problem is there. you need at least 3000+ cfm to even get close to cooling anything for any length of time.
most aftermarket fans are FAR from accurate on their CFM ratings.
you need a bigger fan, one that draws lots of amps, to stay cool.
and since yours is a pusher, [pullers are WAY more efficient] it needs to be bigger than you think.
just my opinion, your results will vary.
beer

Re: new distributor [Re: moparx] #2761465
04/08/20 12:10 PM
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Okay, i have several fans some much nicer than this one, but this one fit very easily. LOL.

I have a really nice fan with shroud but it didn't want to fit. I also have a few 2 core radiators, that will allow this big fan to fit as a puller.

Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2761679
04/08/20 07:58 PM
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Another work day done and no closer to it running cooler.

I swapped the radiator from a top to bottom flow to cross flow style, the top to bottom is 3- 5/8" tubes inside, and the cross flow is 2- 1" cores.

I added a spal fan that flows a unreal amount of air... i can feel it pulling air from a 14"-16" in front of the radiator.

i turned the idle up to 1000-1100 and richened the carb. it stinks when idling.

it hits 220 and drop back to 205 and lives in between 210*-220*

What gives????

The top of the radiator (the return) is very hot by the time it makes it way down to the bottom inlet i can hold my hand on the radiator.
I have tried multiple gauges, sending units.. they are all very close.


Cam timing be off???? any ideas?

HELP


newrad.jpg
Last edited by 8urvette; 04/08/20 08:10 PM.
Re: new distributor [Re: 8urvette] #2761681
04/08/20 08:05 PM
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Are these tests being done in the driveway or from driving the car?


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: new distributor [Re: Cab_Burge] #2761685
04/08/20 08:10 PM
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idling in the driveway

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