I'm looking at going ahead and buying a Eddy RPM for my street 44 in my 1970 Satellite, and am curious what carb would work best for my application. As of right now, I have a 1970 440HP cast iron intake, and 625cfm Carter AVS. The rest of my engine details are below:

1977 440
Block bored .030"
Align bored
Decked
Eddy E-Street heads 75cc
Crank ground
New SCAT H-beam rods
KB pistons( final 10.1-10.2 comp)
CompCams XE268H cam kit
Engine balanced
Doug's headers
Dual 2.5" exhaust with 40 Series Flowmasters
MSD distributor
3.55 posi
727 Auto(tranny being rebuilt and torque converter custom made. Not sure on stall yet. Around 2500?)
Will be running 91 octane fuel

The engine will be assembled by the engine builder and dyno'd for cam break in and and testing.
This is my summer weekend and evening cruiser. Never will see a track. The engine builder is really pushing me to go with the Eddy RPM over cast, and to go Holley 750 over the Carter. I know the old cast intake is a real bottleneck, and the 625 Carter is too small, but it's a budget thing. If I do go with the RPM, is the Holley 750 the best carb for this engine for a street cruiser? Appreciate any advice on this.

hi

yes listen to the builder .


rpm and 750 !

I like that intake, I've dyno tested it on several different motors on several different engine dyno against several other single plane and dual plane intakes, the RPM has always been the best on street and strip motors and on decent(550+ HP bracket motors that will be shifted below 7000 RPM
As far as the carb CFM and brand I would like and use a bigger CFM (850CFM ) carb than that for your motor and I would use a Holley 4150 type carb, Holley, Quick Fuel, Pro System, Thumperdart or any other good custom made 4150 type carb

When you say Holley 750, vacuum or mechanical secondaries ? Street, I'd lean towards vac sec.
Actually the Carter is good for the street & street RPM, but I'd consider the Eddy AVS2 650 CFM.
The AVS2 is better than the stock or previous Eddy AVS.
Is the engine guy going to dial in the carb ?
With the Performer RPM, you may need a drop base for the air cleaner, maybe not.
You might find a clean used one and save a few bucks.

I put an AVS2 650 on my 383 +.030 street car, runs clean, great throttle response.
Leaned out the metering rods 2 steps on the primary circuit using their tuning kit, but you may not need to, since you're feeding more CI.

I've also run a Holley 750 mech sec on a similar 440 build - bigger cam & 4-speed though - and it worked well.
2500 stall should be nice with that combo, I wouldn't go higher stall for a cruiser.
Run vacuum advance, 35-36 deg total mech, and play with initial timing, 12 degrees a good ballpark starting point with your setup.

Your engine build sounds really good IMO. With your combo, I think it will run well no matter what you choose. You'll simply be chasing some horse power at the expense of a little drivability and fuel mileage. You'll need to decide.

If it were mine, I would try several combinations of intakes and carbs. But that does not sound like your cup of tea.

So, if you don't want to leave any power on the table, at least a 750 dp, and RPM. An 850 would probably et and mph better.

A thermoquad on a stock intake or standard Performer would drive real nice and clean, with a very snappy throttle.

An 800 AVS on a CH4B would probably be a nice combo as well, considering your intent for the car.

I think any of these would run well. Make sure you understand what you'll need to do to make the RPM fit under your hood.

i think 800avs2 and ch4b would be good too, and fit under the hood easily. the 268 cam I wouldn't do.

What's the @.050 duration on that cam? If it's mild enough to have a fairly level idle, then the best street carb out of the box today is the Street Demon. It's kind of an updated version of the ThermoQuad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRpmtLb_9dI

If the idle is bumpy, then that is harder to get a carb out of the box to be right. Most tend to be way rich, like the Double Pumpers. For a strictly street car, a 750 will be fine. And when someone recommends a 750 Holley, which one would that be? There are several different models. If your cam is bumpy at idle, I would start with a 4150 model Holley. They are much easier to tune in the idle and transitions where you will need to spend the most time tuning.

No CarterBrocks. They are a good design, but the calibrations are ancient, they are harder to tune in the transitions, and harder to find parts for.

If you really want a carb dialed in for your combo, call ThumperDart. It will be very close right off and is better than spending a bunch of time and money experimenting. Unless that is your thing.

Cab:
How does the Torker II stack up against the Performer RPM? I have minimal hood clearance on my Challenger with a flat hood. It looks like the Torker II is about 3/4 inches shorter than the RPM and would work better as far as fitment in my situation. My car is strictly street, although I'm known for interstate ramp bonzai runs. It is a single plane so it should work better with my Sniper EFI too. Right now I'm running a stock iron manifold.

Thank for the responses all. I know the cam has been part that has caused the most discussion, but the engine builder likes it for this application, has used it many times, and i trust his judgement. I will post the dyno number when it's done, and what I decide for an intake and carb. I already have the cast iron intake and the rebuilt Carter carb. With Covid-19 putting a pinch on my income, it will be a hardship to afford the $1200 for a new intake and carb. I'm in Canada and our dollar is [censored], and all parts come from the USA. If work doesn't pick up before the engine is ready for assembly, I may just go with the cast intake and Carter carb and replace them when I can afford to. If I was going to skimp on something right now, the air/fuel delivery would be the easiest parts to change out later. Regarding earlier questions, I didn't get into the specifics of which model Holley 750 with the engine builder. He just said that that is the CFM he believes would be correct for this build. Also, whatever carb is on it for dyno testing, it will be tuned on the engine, along with timing, and anything else that can be done in order for me to drop the thing in to my car and go. So all in all it really depends on work and money right now. I'll update when I've made a final decision. Thanks again.

10:1+ compression with that short intake lobe (with 4 degrees of advance) will create a bunch of cylinder pressure.