Using a rear sump box style oil pan, anyone besides Stef's make a SBM internal oil pump pickup that drops straight down?

Thanks

Kevko. They have a 7.5" circle track, 8" M303-1 and 9" M307-1.
https://kevkoracing.com/collections/oil-pump-pickup-tubes

I found an old pickup that was for an old Hemi fuel engine which works well. I used AN connectors and a piece of 3/4 or 1" brass pipe to connect it to the pump cover I had. The cover was out of one of the old dual pickup kits.

Small block or Big block? The OP said SBM and I read that as Small Block Mopar.

I got the impression that he adapted the pick up to a different pan and I like the way he was thinking.
My question is , do you simply float the pick up in the bottom of the pan , or is it anchored ?
I think welding a -10 male fitting to the bottom of the pump cover would open up a bunch of different possibilities.
Is there a concern about the length from pump to pick up ? ( tube or line )

My installation was in a rear sump smallblock Had to go rear sump after designing my own k-member and installing a r&p. It was an old Milodon pickup that was designed for a Hemi. I installed it in a smallblock. The pickup had a couple 1/4 inch ridges on the edges to keep it off the bottom of the pan. I used a rather large pickup tube which is the reason it takes a few seconds to gain oil pressure I reduced the tube considerably because the threads in the pickup were huge. Next time I open it up I may go a little smaller on the pickup tube. I wouldn't think the length would be a problem but the diameter could be.

My home made copy of the Kevco pickup above is a bit too big of tube at 5/8's inch . I am rethinking it.

Kevko pickup looks good, I'll get on of those.

Thanks!

I found this informatiom usefull as I run the long discontinued # 31390 Milodon rear sump A body oil pan that has the crossover tube for the tie rod to pass through. These used a rear drop down ( straight down ) oil pickup that attatches to the bottom of the oil pump. It also used a deep rotor kit that is no longer available!!!
It has been frustrating constantly searching for parts to keep it all going.
I like the looks of the Kevko pickups and wonder if they will work with my pan?
If any of you members have the deep rotor kit or the pan I use I am willing to buy....
Grant Eaton

I have the same 31390 pan, it's 11" deep now but I'm shortening it to about 8.75" deep. Also relocating the accel baffle up and putting it at a 45° angle. I don't know your application, but I'm actually going to shorten the M-72 pump gears and body by .100" for a 8000+ rpm drag race motor. I have the Kevco pickup for the 9", and it's actually a bit short at 8.5" from the block pan rail, but does clear the steering link tube.

Cutting and adding a section to tubing is so easy. I Mig weld thin wall tube and never have leaks.

For my LRT, my new Milodon 30985 360 truck pan is 10.75 inch deep 8 qt. I am going to run 6 qt + dual 51515 filters so 7.5 qts. I did find the Kevco 9 inch pickup too short for my stock 360 truck pan and was making my own for it, but I will be sectioning the Kevco one to fit the Milodon pan.

I was told that a stock oil pump using the Kevco type pickup will suck more oil per minuet than the Melling High Volume with the stock sipper straw pickup tube. The stock pickups are 3/8 pipe thread so the inside diameter is between 3/8" and 7/16". The Kevco is 5/8" ID

It has been awhile. But I seem to remember that long rotor set was used in a high volume Hemi pump or some other application. They went into a high volume housing, stuck out a quarter inch and used an aluminum cover made to fit them - made by Milodon I think. When they dried up, the only way to get them was spend the money for that pump and rob them out of it. I'll bet they re still being made and put into something. I wouldn't be afraid of modifying a stock pump housing for the right stuff if you could locate something.

Seems the choices are getting to be cobble something together, go with the Titan pump or go to a dry sump.

I did almost the same on my 340 stocker like Dave J showed, Long story short I used the small rear sump Magnum pan, used a 3.0 liter v6 oil pickup with modifications (3/4” inside pipe with the big bell) straight down into the sump, plugged the existing stock hole. Now I can use the one piece rubber pan gasket too. Also not using oil filter, lines running to the accusump, filter is a big oil restriction like a muffler

IMHO, IF and only if I were running down the strip for say X times and then do a total teardown would I bypass running a oil filter.
But my engines are 95% street driven (HARD) and I will go about 7,000 miles between oil changes using a good Dino grade 5W30 oil so it will get a 20 micron filter. I am toying with running a Dual filter and/or a 2 micron (Amesoil) 'Bypass' oiling system.

Any specs on how to modify the pump cover for that style pick up? Where on the cover does one put the tube?

Thanks, Rod

That long rotor kit was made so you could just drop the gears into you pump housing and drop on their pump cover/pickup and you had a HV oil pump. You can just skip all that and use a HV pump. The pickup system for that pan is very adjustable.


I got very lucky. I have that pan on my street car and that’s all I’ll use if I have it. Bit of a PITA to drop the center link to get the engine out but it’s worth is. I have another pan waiting for my next build and it has the swinging pickup.

It’s a shame they don’t make that pan anymore. Street guys just won’t buy them because theythink they hang too low ( I never scrape mine and it’s at OE ride height) or the center link thing turns them off.

Directly opposite the hole on the other side, straight down. I can take a pic tonite if you like.
On the oil filter, yep to street but race car why? The only thing that is a problem is IRON that will eat stuff up. IF you have iron you just broke something big, quickly, little particles will be the least of your problems. If you break anything it goes thru the pump first then a filter if using one but will probably bypass the filter right into your oil galleries. Lose a bearing you’re done, lose a rod you’re done, it all happens way to fast to save. Oil filters where made for DIRT getting into the carb then into engine, not stopping parts and pieces. Brass and babbit won’t scratch a crank. A drain plug magnet and one in the pan collects the fire iron dust off rings and cylinder walls (which takes hundreds of thousands of miles) Think about it awhile

I had the Kevco pickup already but I laid it on a sheet of paper and traced around and then cut it out. Then I laid that cut out over the Kevco pickup and rubbed the bolt holes and the hole for the tube. Center punched the tube's mark and drilled the 5/8's hole. Used drimel to grind the hole for a snug fit on the tubing. Then MIG welded it to the cover plate.

Notice the 3/8" pipe plug in the OEM pickup location.