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Line Lock (again) #2757138
03/29/20 10:24 AM
03/29/20 10:24 AM
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Canada
Ghoste Offline OP
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Ghoste  Offline OP
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I know the question has been asked dozens of times but there doesn't seem to be a lot of consensus on it. Here is what I have. 69 B-body, big block, manual transmission. Power brakes with disc front. Brake lines go from the master cylinder to a distribution block which houses the safety switch for the warning light. From that block there is a line which goes to the rear. Before getting to the rear brakes there is a holdoff valve or proportioning valve as some call it. The other side of my distribution block has a single line which goes up to a metering valve and the metering valve then has two lines which feed the front brakes.
I was going to plumb the line lock in the line between the distribution block and the metering valve but some tell me thats bad. My other option is to plumb it between the distribution block and the holdoff valve, but some say thats bad. Still others say after the holdoff valve with some saying never do that. In short, every version has someone who says it works and someone who says never do that. I want to hold the front brakes on without screwing up the oem valves. Is there someone with a manual transmission car who wants just front brakes on who has the SAME three valve system as me who has a working line lock in their car? If you do where did you put it and what ports did you use on the lock?
Also I dont want to take any of the three valves out of the system.


I see a light at the end of the tunnel, and it's... ELECTROLUMINESCENT!
Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: Ghoste] #2757139
03/29/20 10:27 AM
03/29/20 10:27 AM
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Pattison Texas
CSK Offline
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I replied on DC.COM to this, it needs to go after the switching valve, simple


1968 Charger COLD A/C Hilborn EFI
512ci 9.7 compression, Stealth heads, 4.10 gear A518 ODtrans 4100lb,10.93 full street car trim
2020 T/A 392 Stock 11.79 @ 114.5

Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: CSK] #2757144
03/29/20 10:43 AM
03/29/20 10:43 AM
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Niles , Ohio
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therocks Offline
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
therocks  Offline
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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My 65 swapped to frt disc and line loc.I have mine mounted by the master and going to rears Its plumbed before the PP valve.Has been there for like 15 years and no problems.Rocky


Chrysler Firepower
Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: CSK] #2757150
03/29/20 10:47 AM
03/29/20 10:47 AM
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nowhere
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Sniper Offline
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Why don't you ask the maker of the line lock? After all, they ought to know how they designed it.

Where you put it is up to you really.

If you use it in the rear brake line then you need to plumb/wire it so that it blocks pressure to the rear brakes. You will need to use your foot to put pressure on the front brakes. Safety issue here is that if you forget to release it you will not have rear brakes when you try to stop. Using this method can get tricky with a stick car.

If you use it on the front brakes you will need to plumb/wire it so that it holds pressure on the front brakes and you can use your foot for other purpose. Use the switch to release the brakes when you launch. If you forget to release the line lock it will be very obvious and you won't have a lack of brakes issue like you could have on the rears.

In either case, it needs to go after the warning light switch.

Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: Sniper] #2757168
03/29/20 11:19 AM
03/29/20 11:19 AM
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Ontario, Canada
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Stanton Offline
Don't question me!
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I have the same vehicle/setup as the OP. I mounted the lineloc right below the master and plumbed the line to the fronts through the lineloc.

Here are some other members setups ...

brake line install1.jpgFIL10709.JPG
Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: Stanton] #2757289
03/29/20 04:08 PM
03/29/20 04:08 PM
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Posts: 1,001
Canada
Ghoste Offline OP
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So I can put it between the distribution block and the metering valve and I am good to go.


I see a light at the end of the tunnel, and it's... ELECTROLUMINESCENT!
Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: therocks] #2757313
03/29/20 05:23 PM
03/29/20 05:23 PM
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Bend,OR USA
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Cab_Burge Offline
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Originally Posted by therocks
My 65 swapped to frt disc and line loc.I have mine mounted by the master and going to rears Its plumbed before the PP valve.Has been there for like 15 years and no problems.Rocky

NHRA outlaw using the line lock on the rear brakes years ago, I'm sure it is still illegal to use it that way tsk scope
OP, if you install it in the brake line between the master cylinder and the brake warning switch the brake warning light will come on when you have the line lock working, which is one way of knowing it is working work
I've plumed more than one car that way, most people like it up twocents

Last edited by Cab_Burge; 03/29/20 05:23 PM.

Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: Cab_Burge] #2757505
03/30/20 09:22 AM
03/30/20 09:22 AM
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Ontario, Canada
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Stanton Offline
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here's another really neat setup

MCPropLine.gif
Last edited by Stanton; 03/30/20 09:22 AM.
Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: Stanton] #2757747
03/30/20 08:16 PM
03/30/20 08:16 PM
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Minn
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SportF Offline
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There is some nice looking installs there, but isn't the point of installing a dual master to have redundant brakes? And if you don't have that factory type shuttle valve in there, you don't.

Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: SportF] #2757899
03/31/20 09:20 AM
03/31/20 09:20 AM
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Ontario, Canada
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Stanton Offline
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Originally Posted by SportF
There is some nice looking installs there, but isn't the point of installing a dual master to have redundant brakes? And if you don't have that factory type shuttle valve in there, you don't.



??? Nothing gets removed to install a lineloc !

Also, the reservoirs are dedicated to front or rear.

Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: Stanton] #2757956
03/31/20 11:58 AM
03/31/20 11:58 AM
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NEW JERSEY
AARCONV Offline
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line lock is for drag racing/ burnouts or used as a hill hold?
mine is installed right after the master to the front valve

Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: Stanton] #2758007
03/31/20 01:48 PM
03/31/20 01:48 PM
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Minn
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SportF Offline
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My point was, looking at the pictures, when you see a nice clean install, but no shuttle valve, you don't have redundant brakes.

This has come up many times before, but to prove you don't have "safety brakes" without a shuttle valve, all you gotta do is go out to your car, open a bleeder, and stomp on the brakes. The pedal will go to the floor.

If you are going to the trouble of installing a dual cylinder, go all the way. That is what I am saying. Stirring up the pot I guess, sorry.

Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: SportF] #2758070
03/31/20 04:50 PM
03/31/20 04:50 PM
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South Bend
John Brown Offline
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Originally Posted by SportF
My point was, looking at the pictures, when you see a nice clean install, but no shuttle valve, you don't have redundant brakes.

This has come up many times before, but to prove you don't have "safety brakes" without a shuttle valve, all you gotta do is go out to your car, open a bleeder, and stomp on the brakes. The pedal will go to the floor.

If you are going to the trouble of installing a dual cylinder, go all the way. That is what I am saying. Stirring up the pot I guess, sorry.



Are we to assume you have personally done that test yourself?


July 19th should be "Drive Like Rockford Day". R.I.P. Jimmie.
Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: John Brown] #2758104
03/31/20 06:26 PM
03/31/20 06:26 PM
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Minn
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SportF Offline
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I put a dual 68 Ply master on a street rod. When a front cylinder leaked I was surprised to find the pedal going to the floor. After a small amount of research, the answer was there.

Its a real simple test, nobody wants to do it as they have believed for so long.....not unlike myself.

Best of luck to you.

Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: SportF] #2758123
03/31/20 07:17 PM
03/31/20 07:17 PM
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Balt. Md
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383man Offline
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Originally Posted by SportF
I put a dual 68 Ply master on a street rod. When a front cylinder leaked I was surprised to find the pedal going to the floor. After a small amount of research, the answer was there.

Its a real simple test, nobody wants to do it as they have believed for so long.....not unlike myself.

Best of luck to you.


Not trying to be a wise guy but I have done just the opposite. I put a dual M/C on my 63 from a 68 B-body and I can open a bleeder in the front or rear and still have about half my brake pedal. Don't know why you did not because it is two separate systems. All the combination valve is for is to push a piston over to turn the brake lite on to warn the driver if one side looses fluid/pressure which I don't have in mine and the later combination valves also have the prop and metering valve in them. Like I say I don't mean to sound like a wise guy or dought your word as I can only say that I have done a few cars like my 63 and always still have brakes if one side gets a leak. Course its not a great pedal but it still has a 1/4 to maybe half pedal and still stops the car but only on one axle of course. Ron

Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: SportF] #2758124
03/31/20 07:19 PM
03/31/20 07:19 PM
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Bend,OR USA
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Originally Posted by SportF
There is some nice looking installs there, but isn't the point of installing a dual master to have redundant brakes? And if you don't have that factory type shuttle valve in there, you don't.


Baloney sauce tsk
Go look at any race car with dual master cylinders with no "shuttle valve" work scope
Mine works fine, my new race car will have dual master cylinders with no shuttle valve or the fitting for it also up


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: Cab_Burge] #2758129
03/31/20 07:32 PM
03/31/20 07:32 PM
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Minn
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SportF Offline
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Oh, it will work fine, great actually. But if you lost a line, the pedal will go to the floor.

Hey, here is a really easy test, put the line lock on, then press the brake pedal. Try that and report back to us what happens.

Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: 383man] #2758135
03/31/20 07:54 PM
03/31/20 07:54 PM
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Sniper Offline
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Originally Posted by 383man
All the combination valve is for is to push a piston over to turn the brake lite on to warn the driver if one side looses fluid/pressure


No, that is not all the combination valve does.

The valve that lights up the warning light also closes off the leaky half of the system keeping a firmer pedal than otherwise.

The combination valve also provides metering, proportioning and functions as a splitter.

I'm pretty sure if none of that was needed then none of the factory engineers wouldn't have put it in there, notice how they all did it.

I think I'll listen to the engineers.

Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: SportF] #2758143
03/31/20 08:37 PM
03/31/20 08:37 PM
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South Bend
John Brown Offline
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Originally Posted by SportF
Oh, it will work fine, great actually. But if you lost a line, the pedal will go to the floor.

Hey, here is a really easy test, put the line lock on, then press the brake pedal. Try that and report back to us what happens.



I put a line lock on the front brake side and completely removed the combination block that contains the warning switch. When I hold the line lock button down and lock the front brakes, the brake pedal gets hard as a rock with only the back brakes being actuated by the brake pedal. Pedal doesn't go to the floor. If anything, my pedal stays up higher. My 67 Caprice must be different than a street rod.


July 19th should be "Drive Like Rockford Day". R.I.P. Jimmie.
Re: Line Lock (again) [Re: John Brown] #2758152
03/31/20 08:58 PM
03/31/20 08:58 PM
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Minn
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SportF Offline
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So with the line lock blocking that front brake line, and the line being already filled with fluid, there would be zero piston movement for the front brakes, yet the pedal moved enough to apply the back brakes.

That is because the flow of those two lines is connected internally, and they have to be. If there was no internal flow/connection, the pedal wouldn't move enough to apply the back brakes. This also means if there was a leak in that front line, or the rear line, the pedal would go all the way to the floor.

As state above, the switch valve shuttles to the leaking (low pressure) side to cut off flow down stream from the valve, allowing all master flow to go to the non leaking side.

This topic comes up from time to time, I'm just trying to inform folks they ain't as safe as they think they are. But, no one will open a bleeder to test, so this post will end like all the others.

Stay safe, hope for better days ahead, and a spring with a racing season to it..

Edit: It just occurred to me that most all of us have already tested this thing as I wanted to. You change out your rear, or something on the front end and you gotta bleed the brakes. So, with a guy on the bleeder, you push on the pedal and it goes to the floor, eh? You floor it a couple times, refill the master and you got it. BUT, the pedal went to the floor! Would it do that IF you had redundancy?

[so was it Billy Mays that said this??]---BUT WAIT, THERES MORE! Even if you have a shuttle valve the pedal will go to the floor when bleeding, what's up with that? That's because when you are bleeding you aren't pushing hard enough to overcome the centering springs on the shuttle valve, SOO, you only have redundancy when you press on the brakes like you are stopping the car.

OK I'm done, wish I could take my car out and my sweetie to the restaurant. Stay safe.




Last edited by SportF; 03/31/20 09:26 PM.
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