Its a complete 2000 5.9 magnum standard bore and still has cross hatch in the bores. I am looking to build a 80/20 street strip motor stroker for my 73 Dart sport. I am shooting for as close to 500 hp/torque as I can get and still maintain some streetability. I have built a few small blocks in my time but never started with a magnum core. It will be bolted to a built 904 with rmvb and a Dana rear end. I would like to thank anyone in advance who adds to the the thread about any experiences or ideas you have in advance. Due to the virus crap I seem to be the major care giver for my grand kids that are home due to day care and school closings ( wife and Daughter are still working and I am retired) so it is going to be hard for me to respond but I will check in from time to time.

If I had it to do over again, I would get a nice forged bottom end kit to bring it up to 408ci. Then I would order a set of ported aluminum heads and roller cam from Dwayne Porter. Run EFI on it, and keep the compression below 9.5 so you can add a belt driven centrifugal blower with intercooler.

I used 10 to 1 hyperutectic pistons, a cast crank, wish I would have gone forged with a bit lower compression. I may just change my cam, bolt on the intercooled blower and have it tuned carefully on a dyno. It should last with a good tune if I keep the boost in the single digits.

Magnums are great engines, especially with EFI. The above combination with blower is very streetable and should spin out a reliable 600 hp and lots of torque. That's just about the right amount of hp to keep things interesting.

Stay away from Eagle cast cranks, Eagle forged are fine.

My 5.9 ATK kit is all SCAT cast crank and rods with KB pistons it is balanced.

Mine is 0.040" over so with the 4 inch stroke it is 410 CI and 10.25ish (Have not measured everything yet)

-Eldy NHRA Magnum Aluminum heads that are 2.02" in and 1.60" Ex but with high flow stems. Chevy 1.6:1 Rockers with guide plates. Pocket Ported and port ported just to clean up the nastys and gasket matched 1 inch in. Pre-porting were 176cc intake and 58cc combustion chambers.

-KB Hypereutitic pistons full floating pins.

-Lunati Hyd roller cam VHR12-VHR14-112, 271/279 or 219/227 @ 0.050", 0.5493" in and 0.5653" lift with my 1.6:1 rockers. IF you are using the Magnum front timing cover get a short snout cam. I got a long snout as I will be running the fuel pump eccentric with a 78 timing chain cover.

-Eldy AirGap intake

-Shorty SS headers

-850 CFM Thermoquad

My son's desk top dyno says 420 HP and 500+ Ft torque from 1800 RPM to redline.

The Magnum blocks have large oil passages but for some reason the return from the filter to the right side lifter gallery was small and did not seem to have been finished bored from the factory. I first ran a 7/16 bit down and it was tight in a few places. I went up to a 1/2 inch 18 inch long bit and cleaned it up. #5 main cap oil hole was also smaller so it got bored to 1/2 inch.

Your engine is going into a car but just for information,Truck Magnum oil pans SUCK! 4 quarts with no baffling and all rounded corners so the oil slides around and back on the crank.
May want to check out a KEVCO oil pan and pickup. They have baffling and a crank scraper too.

EDIT per post below this: I got my heads from Mancini fully built ready to bolt on for $687 each.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/61767/10002/-1

My Eddy Heads had to be milled .030 to get 58cc.

Eagle forged crank, H beam rods, .040 SRP pistons
Indy intake ported by Shane Studley (heads too)
Thumperized Holley 950
Lunati solid roller cam 255/263 @ .50 640/640 with 1.6 rockers
BAM roller lifters
Jesel shaft rockers
Spintech 1-7/8" long tube headers
Rebuilt Magnum truck oil pan
Blue printed oil pump and some other stuff.
Should see 10s at 8000' DA in my Dakota if the track ever opens back up