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10 Degree Valve Spring Lock Install Tips #2749842
03/07/20 12:56 PM
03/07/20 12:56 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,442
Indiana
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YO7_A66 Offline OP
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YO7_A66  Offline OP
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Joined: Jan 2003
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Indiana
I am in the process of shimming valve springs and I am having some issues getting the 10 degree locks back in place with dual valve springs. I am using a on-the-head valve spring compressor and I have had some issues in the past with this tool and the spring moving away from the valve stem. But in the past I have used 7 degree locks with single springs and they dropped in after I got the hang of it.
But these 10 degree locks and dual springs are fighting me. I compress the spring to put the first lock down in the taper at 6:00. Then with a screwdriver I spin the lock up to 12:00 and then drop the next lock in. This worked good for the first 4 springs, but the 5th spring I can not get the first lock to spin around to the 12:00 position as it appears the retainer is moving too far away from the valve tip. So on this fifth spring, I put in a checking spring and compressed it by hand. Then I dropped the locks in place and the retainer locked in place with no problems. But I made sure to move the spring downward straight. I think that my existing compressor tool needs an upgrade.

Any hints?

Thanks
Dave

Last edited by YO7_A66; 03/08/20 09:22 AM.

1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: 10 Degree Valve Spring Lock Install Tips [Re: YO7_A66] #2749874
03/07/20 02:05 PM
03/07/20 02:05 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert Offline
Circle Track
Happy Birthday RapidRobert  Offline
Circle Track

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
my Summit on head valve spring compressor, the angle of the flat was not right for my mag heads so I flattened it a bit & all good


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: 10 Degree Valve Spring Lock Install Tips [Re: RapidRobert] #2749981
03/07/20 09:56 PM
03/07/20 09:56 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,442
Indiana
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YO7_A66 Offline OP
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YO7_A66  Offline OP
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Indiana
Thanks Robert.
I have had to re-bend mine a few times over the years to make it work right. But this time the pull down bar is hitting the retainer. So I spaced it up to clear and it still is a pain to replace these locks. I may start looking for a different tool.

I did a set for a friend (7 degree locks) and it worked fine, but we did do his on a bench. His was a single spring setup and mine is a dual spring.

Thanks again,
Dave


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: 10 Degree Valve Spring Lock Install Tips [Re: YO7_A66] #2751459
03/13/20 07:55 AM
03/13/20 07:55 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,442
Indiana
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YO7_A66 Offline OP
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YO7_A66  Offline OP
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Posts: 5,442
Indiana
As mentioned above, I was struggling with the installation of the 10-degree locks with the dual springs. In the past, I have done a handful of the 7-degree locks and single springs and my existing tool did fine. But my Proform lever-type tool that I have used many times over the years is not convenient with this new dual spring setup. When I pull down on the lever, the spring moves away from the valve stem which makes less room for the locks to be placed. I have done four of these dual spring assemblies and each one was a struggle to get the locks positioned correctly.

Before I posted this thread, I started reading other Mopar boards to see what everyone was using for their valve spring swaps with the heads on the engine. The same type of tools kept showing up (like my current bar type) and the two -jaw type, but I wanted something that would make this a more hands-free operation. I found a few comments about the LSM brand #SC-100 compressor, so I tried finding Mopar references on this tool and only found one link back to a Moparts member (Thanks Gus) who gave this tool a very good review. I did not like the price, but I decided that if this tool makes this process easier, then later this year I may use it again for another project. So, I bought the compressor from Summit and I also found a mounting plate that said was designed for the Mopar SB’s, but Summit did not have it in stock so I decided to reference their picture of the bracket, and I made my own.

I received the compressor this week and I was surprised on how small it is in size and the quality is very good. Once I got my mounting plate revised for optimal adjustments, the tool worked out great! Using a ratchet and a 7/16” socket, a few turns of the screw and the springs compressed, and the locks were opened up and easily removable through the two windows. My hands were free to use the magnet to remove the locks, then a few turns back up, and then slide to tool over the top of the second spring, then I could easily remove the valve springs. After my shimming was done, I put the springs and retainer back on, then slid the tool back over the top of the retainer, a few turns with the socket and the retainer was low enough to place the locks in place. This tool keeps the retainer on center, and with one hand, I could raise the tool/retainer and with the other hand I could move the locks around as they slid into place. It was that easy to use this tool! Thumbs up to LSM on this valve spring compressor.

The only down- side was their SC-146 Mopar SB mounting plate. I was glad that Summit was out of stock because I would have lost that money. They do not specify as to which Mopar SB this plate fits, but it was not even close to working on my aftermarket LA style heads. It would have made the compressor too close to the centerline of the valve springs and would not have had any room for adjustments. My first bracket design was close to their design, but I added a second set of mounting holes for the tool (3/4” closer to the intake side) just in case. I was able to swap out two spring assemblies with this new plate, but the tool was still too close to the spring centerline and I did not have any adjustments. I then made the plate deeper and moved the mounting holes another ½” away from the springs and this setup worked out great. Once I had this bracket worked out, I changed out the two rear spring assemblies in just a few minutes.

I’m guessing that some of you are already using this compressor and didn’t reply to the above. But I wanted to let others know that LSM did a nice job designing this tool!

Dave

IMG_6193.JPGIMG_6192.JPGIMG_6196.JPG

1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: 10 Degree Valve Spring Lock Install Tips [Re: YO7_A66] #2751460
03/13/20 07:58 AM
03/13/20 07:58 AM
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,496
Tulsa, Oklahoma
340Cuda Offline
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340Cuda  Offline
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,496
Tulsa, Oklahoma
I have several of the LSM tools and they are all first rate.

Re: 10 Degree Valve Spring Lock Install Tips [Re: 340Cuda] #2751464
03/13/20 08:59 AM
03/13/20 08:59 AM
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,155
CT
GTX MATT Offline
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GTX MATT  Offline
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Posts: 5,155
CT
I use the proform tool and don't have much of a problem, I just preload the retainer/spring to one side (usually pushing it up against the valve stem) and when you pull down its basically centered.


Now I need to pin those needles, got to feel that heat
Hear my motor screamin while I'm tearin up the street
Re: 10 Degree Valve Spring Lock Install Tips [Re: GTX MATT] #2751569
03/13/20 03:15 PM
03/13/20 03:15 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,122
Auburn WA
Dave_J Offline
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Dave_J  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,122
Auburn WA
I like that LSM tool. But I do an engine every 10 years so not in my budget.

But going away from shaft mounted rockes to the new Magnumn 'Chevy' style rockers it may need a different base.

In my Eldy Magnum heads with chevy rockers I used my OHC 2.2L valve spring tool and a short piece of 5/8's EMT with holes drilled for the rocker studs. A bit of a PITA but it worked. Getting the angles right so it pushed 90 Degrees down was most of my set up time. Then all but 1 spring went smooth.

My question on opinions. Years ago I was told to install the keepers DRY in the spring retainers. I have built many engines and always used a touch of White Lithumun grease to the keepers so they cling and spin while installing. Am I wrong in lubing them?

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