Here is the latest info I have (2018) as well as the older stuff (Synthetic and dyno-juice). Note that Valvoline now has a Pro-V Racing product line, these are absolutely the max amount of zin/phosphorous, etc...will they live on the street??? No idea...they specifically say racing application only!

However, what about the 'Valvoline™ Pro-V Racing™ Break-In Oil' combo? Even for a guy like me who's moving on to a hydraulic roller setup it seems to make sense for break-in duty...no?

Those aren't the numbers currently on Valvoline's website.
VR1 conventional: https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...bd3/a61538b4-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1
VR1 synthetic: https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...bd3/8213a6c1-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1
Regular conventional: https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...bd3/bab4d631-93bb-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1

I prefer 10W30 conventional and that's why I go with the Valvoline VR1. Heard that going to synthetic may cause leaks. Michigan spring to fall driving only, so not sure if other grades would work as well and keep the oil pressure where it is at currently. Not a mechanic by any means. Just what I've always used and kind of stuck to it, hence the conventional VR1 instead of other racing oils. Heck, first few years I owned the car I was using regular conventional until someone mentioned racing oil with higher zinc.

Those numbers are from 540 Rat's oil blog. It's a super long read breaking down his independent testing and evaluation of popular motor oils. I've been doing a lot of research on high ZDDP oils lately, because I'm considering installing a new solid flat tappet in my 440. I already have the cam, lifters, oil and break in lube. The oil is the Gibbs 15w-50"break in oil" but I was surprised to find it ranked pretty low on 540 Rats lubricity test. I'm considering sticking with VR1 because its ranked highy by 540 Rat as well as what I used when breaking in my current SFT cam. The new cam is a Howard's SFT .550 int/.555ex -252/260@..050 . I'll be using the "direct lube" lifters for added insurance. Still considering returning it in favor of the Trick flow HYD roller cam and lifters. But I hear horror stories about hydraulic rollers too..

I run 10-30 in my 440 + 6 and 20-50 in my Harley Davidson with no issue's !!!!

I switched from Vr1 to Lucas in my twin turbo hemi NPK car and the difference was startling. I use methanol for fuel and the Lucas resists methanol dilution a thousand times better. Of course for gasoline motors your results may vary.

What was the startling difference?

I run the VR1 20W-50 in my car and have been for as long as I can remember. Its all I use and I have never wiped a cam and I have never used a roller cam. I even start my engines and break the cam in on the VR1 oil. Ron

With VR1 I had to change the oil(actually vanilla milkshake) every 2 runs. With Lucas every 20.

Tell Jason to hone them blocks correctly to stop that issue

I know you are kidding, Cab, but the methanol cools the motor when idling so we idle it on the rich side.

10w30

Zinc back to 1400 ppm


https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...bd3/a61538b4-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1

I heard the synthetic costs power in big motors, so I dyno tested royal purple synthetic vs Kendall gt1 organic on a 700+/- horse Hemi. The Kendall made more horsepower. So, more power, less leaks, costs less - I'll stick with conventional. But I use Valvoline vr1 now due to availability.

You got the same results I did 18 yrs ago testing straight Valvoline 30 wt. against Mobil One 5w30Wt full synthetic, ended up my Max Wedge motor was sucking oil into the intake from the valley pan

run that alky motor HOT and change much, much less often. I never see milky oil because by letting the temp get to 180 on launch and then 200+ on the return road all water and alky boil out of the oil.

Running upwards of 70 psi boost the main and rod bearings take a beating when the motor detonates.

I have heated oil with water in it in a oven up to 230F to get rid of the water, make sure and put a good fitting lid on the container your using due to the water settling to the bottom and then turning into steam bubbles when it gets close to 210 F. Those bubbles make a mess and can cause a oil fire if your not careful
Oil with alcohol in it is another thing altogether I think, maybe not