Anyone running Vp -Q16 n/a at under 14.1 compression and, did you have good results?

I tried it on a 13:1 engine and it didn't do anything. The tech guy at VP racing told me I needed 15:1 to make the Q16 work. I've heard of other guys using it in 12:1 engines and they claim it makes more power but we didn't see any gains. I eventually stopped using Q16 since it was expensive and really nasty to work with. The fumes were unpleasant to be around and it eats parts if you leave it in the system.

Thanks Andy.
I tune a bb mopar for index racing and we have Very High humidity and heat here, 400 ft above sea level tracks will have Da's at 2500-3200 ft with 115 to 25 grains of water per cubic ft of air in june, july, august.is:
Im looking for a way or, ways to offset the hp loss on cars that cannot run nitrous, blowers, turbos etc
Oxygenated fuels sure look good on paper for accomplishing that and, when i again spoke with Vp fuels yesterday, they make it sound simple /easy yada, yada.
However, i keep reading accounts much like your own .

Any ideas at all for problem solving for oxygen loss in atmosphere or, ideas on running a different fuel etc>

What i have been doing, which has helped, but not cured , is:
a little more timing on those days, keeping engine on the lean side and afr's really tight across the rpm range, running as cool an engine temp as we can.
I haven't found an effective way as yet to actually chill fuel all the way through the system , which would help or, really cool carb/intake .
If i could get the fuel cool enough , i think that would help quite a bit, but that solution alludes me- whoever figures it out will likely become wealthy- grin.

I had really hoped the q16 was a viable answer but, doesn't seem to be the case at this level of racing ( high 9, low 10 1/4 or, 6.30-40 1/8 cars ).
Btw, around here, you basically need to run at least a tenth under your index in good weather to be able to get on index in or summer weather.
Im simply trying to tighten up that window as much as possible.

Any help/suggestions are appreciated.

P.S. VP Fuels say they have the "fuel system destruction" issues resolved, was a particular additive reaction but, it does pull moisture .

The guys I know who ran both C16 and Q16 where able to get the motors to run the same, but they where power adder cars
They did need to fatten it up on Q16 to go faster than on C16 also
I've seen when tuning sometimes you have to go further on the timing or mixture than when it quits going faster to get the best results, in other words try fattening it up some more beyond what you think the motor likes, like 3 to 5%
I've always used the old adage only use the minimum octane you need to go as fast as you can on N/A cars, not more octane

I don’t know why anyone running that slow would even consider running Q16. Man that stuff is crazy expensive.

Every combo is different.......

Mid-800hp 468” SBC with 14:1 running a single carb and 18* heads.
Baseline motor on C16, switch to Q16, and rejet ...... 35hp more.
850 up to 885.

And Q16 is much more forgiving.
Just go up 10 get sizes.

I've ran Q in several different applications. In every case it made more power NA. From 12:1 to 16.5:1. In every one of them the same tuning logic applied. More fuel, and more timing. In 2 different single 4 combos I just never could get enough fuel up top to see where it would end.

There are 2 blends of Q16, and the regular mix is the better one imo. The other is ETBE, not MTBE. The MTBE is a better fuel despite what VP says about it. Had both on the dyno back, to back. The ETBE blend hit the wall and just went fatter with less power. The MTBE (reg) just kept asking for more fuel, and timing. I have no idea if that's the only difference in the 2 fuels.

When I've seen folks try it at the track (mostly single 4), and see little to no improvement, it's hard to say, but judging from what I've experienced, it's too little fuel, and too little timing. VP recommends a reduction in timing, but that has never once worked for me. The last one that I helped a friend with at the track went from 96 main jets in a 1250 to 106 with a high speed air bleed reduction from .031 to.028 and it was still picking up mph. Added 3 degrees timing too.

Here’s my take on it in Rusty’s situation......

It just comes down to $$$, and how bad you really want to know what it’ll do in that particular application..... at that time of the season.

If you want to know bad enough....... pull the motor when you’re getting into that part of the season and head to the dyno.
Baseline the motor with the current fuel and tune...... swap to the Q16, and start tuning.......and see what you can get out of it.

After you’ve gotten the tune for the new fuel dialed in, and if it picked up enough power to make it worth track testing....... see what happens in the car.

I've built and tune a few carbs on Q-16 which are anywhere from 12.1/2 compression to just a bit past 15.1 and they all picked up but in your scenario I'd try the VP-101 oxy fuel I run or the VP-113 for even better performance. The idea that you just jet up 10 #'s is totally wrong from what I've seen and the carbs I built had every passage slightly increased in size to add volume as well as enrichment including smaller idle bleeds and bigger ifr's for starters............I wouldn't waste the $$ or time on that toxic crap on your deal........

C85 is the best hot weather fuel aside from methanol I've ever used. Makes more power than any non ox race gas too. 100 degree day and the manifold will be cold to the touch.

As for Q16 and jetting, go up, add timing and see where you wind up. VP recommended 4 sizes, on the new stuff and 6 on the reg to start. We've pulled the mains just to try to see peak before on the dyno.

We ran it for years in a nss car that ran a 9.0 index. What we found was that right out of the trailer in am to late night racing et never changed more than a couple of hundredth and engine temp never went higher than 160 no matter outside temp. Never gained any more power.

Thanks guys, a lot of good info.
I think i can book some chassis dyno time if we decide to test it .
Lots to digest and, as always, i appreciate it
Will check out the 85 fuel as well- think on that.

If anyone has any other ideas on not losing as much in the heat/water , i will appreciate that as well.

Of course, if you’re index racing..... and can’t run the number when the weather gets unfriendly...... there’s always going “old school”.

Just hop the combo up and back into the index with tuning, weight, shift points, mechanical throttle stop, etc.

I have run Q16 since it came out. Jet up and imo START at 10% more jet. You will likely need more than that and likely need some HS bleed changes, also some emulsion tuning. Q is a VERY forgiving fuel with an exceptionally wide tuning window. It also is extremely consistent across a wider range of weather conditions. I have NEVER tried it in an engine and NOT seen a gain. Also as Darren pointed out C85 is another great alternative for you. We ran it in our dragster for a couple years playing with E85. The C85 picked the car up a couple tenths and worked very well. We now run Q in both cars. BTW there is an even more oxygenated fuel out there than Q, C45 and we run it in the Vette. It is not very forgiving and has a VERY NARROW tuning window. But when its right nothing can touch it, but when its qwrong, especially fat wrong waive goodbye to your rings....

Yea , If i can get him to 6.31 he should be able to run 6.41 all year, backing in during spring and late fall and on the number during the bad months.
The index here is 6.25, 6.41, 6.72 .
Really too fast to back up to the .72 , I put 200 lbs , pulled throttle out and reduced timing, wanted to run .60 all day- had to race the stripe.
So, kinda trapped between indexes in the worst /most of the season.
I get generally get a .43-.45 out of it in the heat, i just need that itsy bit more- grin
As soon as we get a new block for it , top end goes to you for porting/cam selection and this will get easier .
We are working towards the plan you presented , he just wants to get an aftermarket block first as we realize this one is playing with fire , as you pointed out .

Pittsburgh: I know its expensive but, if it will give us 2-3 hundredths in the heat for a few races , that will meaning winning more.
We made the finals more times than not last year and either having to race the stripe too much or, being .02 slow - neither worked well against good index racers.
Just need a tiny bit of help until we get the new block to build from.

Hey! Slow is relative ! At my age, im daily surprised at what seems fast! hahahaha

Thanks Jake: If it lowers engine temp , thats certainly going to help us as we run better at 160-165 than 180-190.
We usually finish the run at around 190 in july/august.

Call APD and get an alcohol carb. A drum of alcohol is right around 160.00 dollars for 54 gallons. I paid under 600.00 to convert my carb and pricing is on their website. Great company to deal with.

Another very, very important warning about Q16. When you wake up late, and the woman demands you blow the leaves away from the house because "reasons" and you're out of gas. NEVER EVER fill the leaf blower with Q16...you will disappoint the woman, her friends, and you will need a new blower.