Is my oil pressure too high?
#2746253
02/24/20 10:04 PM
02/24/20 10:04 PM
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DrCharles
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I'm seeing about 55 psi hot idle (1200 rpm) and 75-80 psi at speed. Another 10 psi cold. Think I have a Melling 63 HV pump but out of town right now, so can't check the pump height. Isky nodular iron rockers, no oil restrictor, 430# open spring pressure (mushroom cam) so I want plenty of oil upstairs and on the lobes. Oil is 15W-50 Mobil 1 because it has the right amount of ZDDP without resorting to additives. Should I run a lighter oil, change the relief spring, or just not worry about it?
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: lewtot184]
#2746262
02/24/20 10:31 PM
02/24/20 10:31 PM
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DrCharles
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it's easy to play with pressure if you have doubts. I don't use that much pressure. no worries, I know how to change the pressure (as mentioned, bypass spring or lighter oil)... what I don't want to do is find out the hard way I lowered it too much! It is a big block (451 low deck). Occasional blasts up into the high 6000's. Mostly cruising, 3000 or less.
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Pacnorthcuda]
#2746273
02/24/20 11:04 PM
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DrCharles
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It has 1200/1300 ppm of zinc and phosphorus, and a lot of oils (including the rest of the Mobil 1 lineup) do not. In fact the Mobil application chart specifically recommends it for flat tappet applications... I could run a 10w-30 or 10w-40 with the right amount of ZDDP... looks like Valvoline VR-1 has it too. The engine was broken in on regular oil + zinc additive, incidentally. Rings are seated, no burning oil. How would you determine that an engine needed it?
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: DrCharles]
#2746276
02/24/20 11:11 PM
02/24/20 11:11 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
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Azzkikrcuda
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You could try Valvoline VR1 racing oil, they have 10W30. It has around 1200 ppm zinc from the oil samples I have done.
The only Carbs I care about are under the hood!
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: A39Coronet]
#2746292
02/25/20 12:11 AM
02/25/20 12:11 AM
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Dave_J
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Running that pressure may not hurt anything except the Horsepower output. Oil pumps draw a lot of power and have been known to twist the oil pump drive shaft off. I'd change to a 10W30 or so with the ZDDP levels
Retired, US ARMY 1973-1994 ASE mechanic, Electrical 1994-1997 Retired GTE/VERIZON/FRONTIER 1997-2015
Posting cheap tech help (CRAP) here since Nov 97, 1000's of posts, some may be good.
03 Suzuki Burgman 650(Burger King) Scooter 65 Formula S Cuda 78 Little Red Express Truck 98 Buick Regal (wifes car)
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#2746315
02/25/20 03:57 AM
02/25/20 03:57 AM
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Dave_J
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I use to run straight non synthetic petroleum 5W20Wt Valvoline in my old pump gas Duster with no additives in that 518 C.I. solid roller cam pump gas motor, work good, lasted a long time On your deal with the solid flat lifters I would use Valvoline VR1 10x30 Wt. racing oil with no additional additives The 410 stroker I'm building will be broken in using 10W30 but its a Magnumn Hyd roller block so no need for ZDDP. Then I will run 5W20 and have two used oil analysis's done. I am running a Melling 72HV with the cover plate replaced with a direct pickup in 1/2 id. Stock pickup shown for reference, will be removed and port plugged.
Retired, US ARMY 1973-1994 ASE mechanic, Electrical 1994-1997 Retired GTE/VERIZON/FRONTIER 1997-2015
Posting cheap tech help (CRAP) here since Nov 97, 1000's of posts, some may be good.
03 Suzuki Burgman 650(Burger King) Scooter 65 Formula S Cuda 78 Little Red Express Truck 98 Buick Regal (wifes car)
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: DrCharles]
#2746346
02/25/20 10:08 AM
02/25/20 10:08 AM
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DaveRS23
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Another vote for the 10w30 VR1. I switched to that from the 20w50 in my Hemi with a FTS cam and my pressure is good. The 10# per 1,000RPM is a good target.
Master, again and still
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: DaveRS23]
#2746392
02/25/20 12:36 PM
02/25/20 12:36 PM
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fast68plymouth
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I’m happy with 70-80psi at the top end with a BBM.
I wouldn’t change anything.
68 Satellite, 383 with stock 906’s, 3550lbs, 11.18@123 Dealer for Comp Cams/Indy Heads
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Pacnorthcuda]
#2746401
02/25/20 01:17 PM
02/25/20 01:17 PM
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larrymopar360
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I wouldn’t run 15w-50 unless the motor needed it, and yours most assuredly doesn’t. I think this sums it up.
Facts are stubborn things.
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Dave_J]
#2746421
02/25/20 01:48 PM
02/25/20 01:48 PM
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CMcAllister
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I am running a Melling 72HV with the cover plate replaced with a direct pickup in 1/2 id. Stock pickup shown for reference, will be removed and port plugged. Plenty of pressure and plenty heavy on the oil unless this thing is going to be run hard in summer heat. I assume the clearances are real big (>.003"). Get some good 10w30 with Zinc and see what you end up with.
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: CMcAllister]
#2746549
02/25/20 09:42 PM
02/25/20 09:42 PM
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DrCharles
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I built the short block a long time ago and don't remember what clearances, but not race-big. It does get pretty hot in southern MO summers... Anyway I agree that oil's a bit heavier than I need. Will try 10w-30. Thoughts on synthetic vs. mineral oils? Two people now are really sure I don't need synthetic oil. Again, please tell me why not, and in your opinion what DOES need synthetic oil?
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: DrCharles]
#2746551
02/25/20 09:47 PM
02/25/20 09:47 PM
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Mattax
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How would you determine that an engine needed it? Be easier if there was an oil temperature gage. Can use infrared temperature gun on the oil pan for a ballpark (assuming its not a shiny or chrome pan) The coolant temperature otherwise is next closest reference. Trial one multi grade down to see how it effects both the idle and the higher revs. That would be a multi-grade 40. See what is available in 10W or 15W-40. Or. if you prefer sticking with the current product line, you can mix in a percentage of lighter grade. Last I checked, this calculator still worked. https://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Mixtures.htmlGet the viscosity for the oils in question from the manufacturer. Sometimes its on their websites. Others make you ask for it. Then watch the temperature and pressure at idle and high rpm. If the pressure drops at idle, but stays the same or is higher at high rpm, then that's better for the engine.
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: DrCharles]
#2746552
02/25/20 09:49 PM
02/25/20 09:49 PM
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CMcAllister
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I like synthetic. Used Amsoil. Filter looked better. Parts looked better. I used 10w30 and the clearances were bigger than they should have been. Oil pressure would have made most people pucker.
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Pacnorthcuda]
#2746586
02/26/20 06:25 AM
02/26/20 06:25 AM
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Spaceman Spiff
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I wouldn’t run 15w-50 unless the motor needed it, and yours most assuredly doesn’t. You can’t make that statement if you don’t know what the clearances of the engine are. It’s not a stock engine.
526 cubes of angry wedge, pushbutton shifted, 9 passenger killer!
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Spaceman Spiff]
#2746672
02/26/20 12:34 PM
02/26/20 12:34 PM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,910 Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda
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I wouldn’t run 15w-50 unless the motor needed it, and yours most assuredly doesn’t. You can’t make that statement if you don’t know what the clearances of the engine are. It’s not a stock engine. I made that statement based on his hot idle 55 psi with 15w-50. That’s far more pressure than needed, regardless of bearing clearances. Period. He has room for improvement by either running thinner oil, or less volume (different pump). Since he’s currently running fairly heavy oil, trying a lighter oil at this point makes perfect sense...as others have suggested.
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Neil]
#2746682
02/26/20 01:01 PM
02/26/20 01:01 PM
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Pacnorthcuda
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Yes, on the thinner oil and see what you get.
I have been told by a very experienced machinist that synthetics don't cling to parts long term so on a hobby type car that sits a lot you may end up with cam lobes that have less oil film on them. True or not I don't know for sure...… This guy has a 7 second drag car and he uses conventional oil in it. That same comment is used to describe high detergent diesel oils.....(Delo, Rotella etc). The detergent greatly affects surface tension of the oil film and causes it to collect together and therefore drain from vertical surfaces faster. On cam lobs it drips off faster on shut down rather than clings as a film. Dryer starts are the result. Don’t know how big of a deal it really is, but apparently that’s one disadvantage of detergent, the other being a possible negative reaction with ZDDP, but HDEO’s are formulated that way, and they certainly work.
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Pacnorthcuda]
#2747020
02/27/20 11:17 AM
02/27/20 11:17 AM
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Mattax
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Makes sense. The other night I noticed that Widman has updated his Oil for Corvairs paper and now is a little more generally about flat tappets and includes more on High Temperature, High Shear viscosity (HTHS). Limited comments about specific oils but Dr Charles should look at page 24. He has also added a paper on oil for Minis (real minis) which is worth glancing at just for its introduction to gear oiling. https://www.widman.biz/English/Bulletins/flat.html
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Mattax]
#2747115
02/27/20 03:30 PM
02/27/20 03:30 PM
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Dave_J
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Over on a motorcycle forum we are in a big long debate on using Shell Rotella T6 5W40 that is Jaso MA2 rated for wet clutch use. The main idea is that it is not what the Suzuki engineers qouted in the service manual. The manual lists 5W30, 10W40, 10W50 but not 5W40 and a (Anal Retentive) is saying we are stupid for using 5W40.
But my point of this is we have two British mechanical engineers members that have done testing of 'Car' oils in motorcycle engines that rev to 14,000 RPM. They say that car oils do not have the 'CLING' that true motorcycle oils do and at 14,000 RPM almost all oil is slung off cams and such. It does not matter that 1,000's of motorcycle riders have used Jaso MA2 rated Delo 400 and Rotella T6 with no major failures. The Suzuki engineers are gods and they did not say it was OK. ??? 5W30 vs 5W40???
Retired, US ARMY 1973-1994 ASE mechanic, Electrical 1994-1997 Retired GTE/VERIZON/FRONTIER 1997-2015
Posting cheap tech help (CRAP) here since Nov 97, 1000's of posts, some may be good.
03 Suzuki Burgman 650(Burger King) Scooter 65 Formula S Cuda 78 Little Red Express Truck 98 Buick Regal (wifes car)
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Dave_J]
#2747187
02/27/20 07:29 PM
02/27/20 07:29 PM
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Cab_Burge
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My son worked for Rob Muzzi for 23+ Yrs, Rob was the Kawasaki factory road race team owner and manager for many, many years, they also sponsored his NHRA Pro Stock bike team for several years. They where revving those 750 and 1100 CC road race motors over 14,500 back then My son introduce me to his head mechanic back in the mid 1990s, they where using Motul synthetic racing oils only in their bikes back then, I use to see it in the race shop until Rob retired I don't like synthetic oils for my own reasons based on results from dyno testing and the synthetic oils leaking, seeping, weeping, through many American made gaskets for our old Mopar motors, pure oil based oils don't leak through them Mobil Oil Corp was sued by the Contentinal (SP) Aircraft Engine owners assoc. on their Mobil AV 1 synthetic aircraft oil because it wouldn't stick on the camshaft lobes and lifters when those motor would sit for more than a week without running. They won the law suit( a bunch of money, a BUNCH) and Mobil quit making and selling that oil right after the law suit was settled I had used that oil for over 7 yrs in my Piper Comanche 250 and it would not hold gunk in the oil, it would leave deposits all over my airplane motor where it would sit and puddle, I had used Shell aircraft oil before that and that motor had no gunk in it anywhere when I bought it, I had the plane inspected thoroughly before buying it due to it had sat for over 18 months without flying, I was able to remove a lot of the inspection panels and all the rocker ram covers to look inside that top end, we did a leak down test and cleaned and gapped all 12 spark plugs. It turned out to be a very good air plane I flew it for 15Yrs and a little over 900 hours before it got totaled on the ground by a hail storm here in Bend, OR d I think all the new cars and H.D. trucks come with synthetic oil in them from the factory now
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 02/27/20 07:30 PM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Dave_J]
#2747190
02/27/20 08:08 PM
02/27/20 08:08 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,814 Benton, IL.
DaveRS23
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That same kind of mentality is evident on the Hellcat forums. Now I understand that complying with warranty requirements, no matter how asinine, is imperative in order to keep the warranty valid. But other than that, most opinions are total nonsense. Not based on any real experience.
For most of our cars, there is wide range of oils that will serve our engines well. 5 vs 10 weight, or 6 months change vs 12 months change, and yes, syn vs part syn vs petroleum are all a bit ridiculous to argue over. Heck, even the petroleum oils are largely synthetic. No one believes they are straight crude out of the ground.
I have asked a number of times, in a number of venues; how much of a quart of VR1 is petroleum and how much is synthetic additives? And what percentage of synthetic additives does it take to be able to be called semi-synthetic? Does anyone know the answers? I have never been able to find out.
I run Valvoline VR1 in my Hemi, change it once a year and I beat the snot out of it. No oil related failures. How much better than that can you get?
Master, again and still
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: DaveRS23]
#2747199
02/27/20 08:45 PM
02/27/20 08:45 PM
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Mattax
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I don't like synthetic oils for my own reasons based on results from dyno testing and the synthetic oils leaking, seeping, weeping Those original synthetics were ester and PAO only oils. The stuff sold today as synthetics are different in two ways. You shouldn't have those problems with better 'synthetics' today. That's not to say you ought to try them. Bad experiences like that are a powerful incentive! how much of a quart of VR1 is petroleum and how much is synthetic additives? And what percentage of synthetic additives does it take to be able to be called semi-synthetic? Does anyone know the answers? I have never been able to find out. You may be able to figure it out what the base stock(s) are from the material data sheet of labelling. When you read Widman's paper you'll see that's where he gets the info, although sometimes he has to figured out based on clues in the documents. here's a some basic overview of the base stock snipped from https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29113/base-oil-groups API Base Oil GroupsIn the early 1990s, the American Petroleum Institute implemented a system for describing various base oil types. The result was the development and introduction of base oil group numbers. Group I base oils are the traditional older base oils created by a solvent-refining technology used to remove the weaker chemical structures or bad actors (ring structures, structures with double bonds) from the crude oil. Solvent refining was the primary technology used in refineries built between 1940 and 1980. Group I base oils typically range from amber to golden brown in color due to the sulphur, nitrogen and ring structures remaining in the oil. Group II base oils are created by using a hydrotreating process to replace the traditional solvent-refining process. Hydrogen gas is used to remove undesirable components from the crude oil. This results in a clear and colorless base oil with very few sulphur, nitrogen or ring structures. In recent years, the price has become very similar to Group I base oils. Group II base oils are still considered to be mineral oils. They are commonly used in automotive engine oil formulations. Group III base oils are again created by using a hydrogen gas process to clean up the crude oil, but this time the process is more severe and is operated at higher temperatures and pressures than used for Group II base oils. The resulting base oil is clear and colorless. [I]t is more resistant to oxidation than Group I oils. The cost of Group III base oils is higher than Group I and II. Group III base oils are considered mineral oils by many technical people because they are derived directly from the refining of crude oil. However, they are considered synthetic base oils by other people for marketing purposes due to the belief that the harsher hydrogen process has created new chemical oil structures that were not present before the process. It has synthesized (created) these new hydrocarbon structures. Group I, II and III base oils basically reflect the evolution in refining technology over the past 70 or 80 years. Group IV base oils are polyalphaolefin (PAO) synthetic base oils that have existed for more than 50 years. They are pure chemicals created in a chemical plant as opposed to being created by distillation and refining of crude oil (as the previous groups were). PAOs fall into the category of synthetic hydrocarbons (SHCs)...and are significantly more expensive than Group III base oils due to the high degree of processing needed to manufacture them. Group V base oils comprise all base oils not included in Groups I, II, III or IV. Therefore, naphthenic base oils, various synthetic esters, polyalkylene glycols (PAGs), phosphate esters and others fall into this group.
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: DrCharles]
#2747215
02/27/20 09:52 PM
02/27/20 09:52 PM
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Mattax
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The other night I noticed that Widman has updated his Oil for Corvairs paper and now is a little more generally about flat tappets and includes more on High Temperature, High Shear viscosity (HTHS). Limited comments about specific oils but Dr Charles should look at page 24. Very interesting read, thank you. Also the top of page 29 Back to VR1 10W-30! And you can mix 20W-50 in the same if it looks like that's needed. it would get something like a 15W-40 so not such a big experiment along with its higher HTHS
Last edited by Mattax; 02/27/20 10:45 PM.
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Mattax]
#2747257
02/28/20 12:01 AM
02/28/20 12:01 AM
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Magnum
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Do not use the pressure relief to adjust or set your pressure. It's an upper limit, consider it a bypass. If you are constantly on the bypass, you are forcing too much oil into the bearing clearances.
The only engines that should be using 20w50 are worn out engines that need oil pressure because you do not feel like fixing it properly, like a rebuild.
Same with High Volume oil pumps. They were made for installing on a worn out engine.
Anything with clearances within spec will need a standard oil pump, 10w30 and you will have enough oil pressure for any conditions. I do totally agree with DaveJ's comment on horsepower. We build these engines with performance in mind. So why send more power to the oil pump drive than you have too?
69 Super Bee, 93 Mustang LX, 04 Allure Super
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Magnum]
#2747408
02/28/20 03:00 PM
02/28/20 03:00 PM
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Cab_Burge
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I disagree on the use of the high volume oil pumps, they where designed for racing motors, not worn out stock motors I like and use loose bearing clearances on all the motors I build, race or HP street motors. I've never seen or heard of a rod bearing spinning do to much (.002 to .0035) oil clearances, same thing on main bearings (.0030 to .0045) I like and use the 10 lbs. per thousand RPM rule with hot oil (150F+)and trim or shim the bypass spring to get that if needed I also run 5W20WT oil on my street motors now, Valvoline VR1 10W30 WT in my race motors I use to use 50W racing oil, years ago I've done a lot of engine dyno testing and found out that the oil temps can have a direct affect on HP, 30 W oil at 130F would not have as much power as it would at 170+ F oil temps, 8 HP gain with hotter oil I then tried 10W30 wt and saw 5 HP differences between 130 F and 160F, the next test was with straight 20W and I saw no HP gain from 70F up to 210F That is why I use that weight oil now in all my street motors and low (below 750HP) HP bracket motors
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 02/28/20 03:02 PM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#2747437
02/28/20 04:15 PM
02/28/20 04:15 PM
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Dave_J
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I disagree on the use of the high volume oil pumps, they where designed for racing motors, not worn out stock motors I like and use loose bearing clearances on all the motors I build, race or HP street motors. I've never seen or heard of a rod bearing spinning do to much (.002 to .0035) oil clearances, same thing on main bearings (.0030 to .0045) I like and use the 10 lbs. per thousand RPM rule with hot oil (150F+)and trim or shim the bypass spring to get that if needed I also run 5W20WT oil on my street motors now, Valvoline VR1 10W30 WT in my race motors I use to use 50W racing oil, years ago I've done a lot of engine dyno testing and found out that the oil temps can have a direct affect on HP, 30 W oil at 130F would not have as much power as it would at 170+ F oil temps, 8 HP gain with hotter oil I then tried 10W30 wt and saw 5 HP differences between 130 F and 160F, the next test was with straight 20W and I saw no HP gain from 70F up to 210F That is why I use that weight oil now in all my street motors and low (below 750HP) HP bracket motors I have watched so many Dyno runs on TV. They always do major changes between pulls so you never know what was the major gain in power. But we did a Dyno run on a 513 BBM years ago using 20W50 racing oil. All tests were at 180 degrees F. We then replaced the HV oil pump with a standard one and gained 10 HP. Then we dumped the 20W50 and ran 5W30 and gained 15 Horsepower. So a gain of 25 Horses. After 30+ runs the main bearings were pulled and had very minor wear as was normal. I have not run anything above 10W30 in any car except my Subaru Outback XT turbo, it gets Rotella T6 5W40.
Retired, US ARMY 1973-1994 ASE mechanic, Electrical 1994-1997 Retired GTE/VERIZON/FRONTIER 1997-2015
Posting cheap tech help (CRAP) here since Nov 97, 1000's of posts, some may be good.
03 Suzuki Burgman 650(Burger King) Scooter 65 Formula S Cuda 78 Little Red Express Truck 98 Buick Regal (wifes car)
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Dave_J]
#2747498
02/28/20 07:21 PM
02/28/20 07:21 PM
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Posts: 43,741 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
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Bend,OR USA
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Do you remember how much oil pressure it had with both pumps above 4500 RPM? Is that information on your dyno sheets? I have had to trim a lot o the black high pressure bypass springs to get to have 65 lbs. at 6500 RPM with 5w20 wt. oil in my street motors at or above 130F oil temps. I think I saw a small HP and torque gain by cutting the pressure back on a high volume oil pump on one of the dyno tests done years ago from 80 lbs. at 5000+ RPM down to 65 lbs. at 6500 RPM with the oil temps above 150 F, maybe 3 HP, maybe less I've never had a bearing problem with 10 lbs. per 1000 RPM rule on any motor with loose bearing clearances, I have seen rod bearings spin in other motors at the drag races that had less than .0020 rod bearing clearances on BB Mopar motors when raced with cool oil temps
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Mattax]
#2747531
02/28/20 08:53 PM
02/28/20 08:53 PM
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,220 West Plains, MO
DrCharles
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,220
West Plains, MO
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And you can mix 20W-50 in the same if it looks like that's needed. it would get something like a 15W-40 so not such a big experiment along with its higher HTHS Is there a 15W-40 that still has 1100-1200 ppm zinc? When I broke in the cam I used 10W-30 with a bottle of ZDDP additive. But when I dropped the pan to fix an oil leak, I found black additive slime in various places. Now I only want to use an oil with the proper amount already in the formula. For those who say never use 20W-50 in any engine, that depends on the manufacturer. BMW's M50 four-valve inline six specifically calls for it in any temp above 14F. They made hundreds of thousands of them between 1990 and 1996. (I have a '93). A common problem is owners not doing their reading and putting 10W-30 in them. And the tappets start clattering, not the bearings. Put the proper weight oil in and they stop making noise. When I got mine it had a quickie-lube sticker showing 10W-30, and very noisy lifters. I changed it for the correct oil and voila... all quiet again It's still on the original engine at 327k miles, too!
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Neil]
#2747546
02/28/20 09:10 PM
02/28/20 09:10 PM
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,066 Atlanta, GA
mgoblue9798
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,066
Atlanta, GA
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Yes, on the thinner oil and see what you get.
I have been told by a very experienced machinist that synthetics don't cling to parts long term so on a hobby type car that sits a lot you may end up with cam lobes that have less oil film on them. True or not I don't know for sure...… This guy has a 7 second drag car and he uses conventional oil in it. I take it a step further and run STP oil treatment. Stuff sticks to all internal parts of the engine. Every one I have torn down has a sticky film all over everything. Hell of a lot cheaper than a prelube oiling system and good insurance for the cars that are not used every day in my opinion.
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: mgoblue9798]
#2747600
02/28/20 11:53 PM
02/28/20 11:53 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,741 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,741
Bend,OR USA
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I take it a step further and run STP oil treatment. Stuff sticks to all internal parts of the engine. Every one I have torn down has a sticky film all over everything. Hell of a lot cheaper than a prelube oiling system and good insurance for the cars that are not used every day in my opinion. [/quote] I remember hearing adds on TV in 1952 up to 1956 for the new miracle engine oil additive from Germany, STP I started working in service station, not todays gas only stations, in 1961, I started building my own motors shortly after that and started taking customers motor work in around 1974. I know customers who used and swore by STP, all the STP motors I tore down for inspection had grey gunk deposits in every little low spot in th elifter valleys, I owned a hot tank and the hot tank solution wouldn't touch those deposits after soaking them for several days I had to scrape it out with a screw driver or something narrow enough to get in those small recesses I'm not sure if the STP formula has changed over the years, especially when Andy Granatelli (SP?) owned the company in the early 1960s. I don't use it now, haven't in over twenty years due to todays oils are way better than they where in 1950s Pennzoil use to be crap until Shell oil bought them, they started adding something to the race oil tin the early 2000s hat sticks on anything like crazy, so has Valvoline
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#2747603
02/29/20 12:09 AM
02/29/20 12:09 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,122 Auburn WA
Dave_J
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,122
Auburn WA
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Do you remember how much oil pressure it had with both pumps above 4500 RPM? Is that information on your dyno sheets? I have had to trim a lot o the black high pressure bypass springs to get to have 65 lbs. at 6500 RPM with 5w20 wt. oil in my street motors at or above 130F oil temps. I think I saw a small HP and torque gain by cutting the pressure back on a high volume oil pump on one of the dyno tests done years ago from 80 lbs. at 5000+ RPM down to 65 lbs. at 6500 RPM with the oil temps above 150 F, maybe 3 HP, maybe less I've never had a bearing problem with 10 lbs. per 1000 RPM rule on any motor with loose bearing clearances, I have seen rod bearings spin in other motors at the drag races that had less than .0020 rod bearing clearances on BB Mopar motors when raced with cool oil temps Do not have the Dyno sheets, long gone. 3 military moves and 2 house moves since then. This was when 513's were not common and Fram filters were GREAT. It was an imploded Fram filter that killed that 513. I don't play with big blocks any more. I am going by memory. All dyno runs were at 180 degrees F water temp. I think with the 20W50 and HV pump it was north of 100PSI at 2500-3000 RPM and 80 PSI with the stock oil pump. With the 5W30 HV pump I think it was like 60 PSI and 50 PSI with standard pump. We did not play with the bypass spring at that time. We did grind it down some later to get closer to the 10 PSI per 1000 RPM. Over the years I have always blueprinted and ported all oil pumps. Most oil pumps have too tight rotors, small passages and lots of bugers in the ports.
Retired, US ARMY 1973-1994 ASE mechanic, Electrical 1994-1997 Retired GTE/VERIZON/FRONTIER 1997-2015
Posting cheap tech help (CRAP) here since Nov 97, 1000's of posts, some may be good.
03 Suzuki Burgman 650(Burger King) Scooter 65 Formula S Cuda 78 Little Red Express Truck 98 Buick Regal (wifes car)
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Dave_J]
#2747914
02/29/20 11:48 PM
02/29/20 11:48 PM
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645 Phila. Pa.
Mattax
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645
Phila. Pa.
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Guys Thanks for sharing what you found on the dyno! I've done a lot of engine dyno testing and found out that the oil temps can have a direct affect on HP, 30 W oil at 130F would not have as much power as it would at 170+ F oil temps, 8 HP gain with hotter oil I then tried 10W30 wt and saw 5 HP differences between 130 F and 160F, the next test was with straight 20W and I saw no HP gain from 70F up to 210F That is why I use that weight oil now in all my street motors and low (below 750HP) HP bracket motors Thank you both for sharing! The termperature relationship makes sense. Viscosity for a straight 30 at 130 F is around 45 cSt 175 F is around 20 cSt 8 Hp For a 10W-30130 F is around 35 cSt 160 F is around 25 cSt 5 Hp I don;'t have info from straight 20 plotted. But to your findings on that engine it seems that viscosity above 20 or 25 cSt was costing power. we did a Dyno run on a 513 BBM years ago using 20W50 racing oil. All tests were at 180 degrees F. We then replaced the HV oil pump with a standard one and gained 10 HP. Then we dumped the 20W50 and ran 5W30 and gained 15 Horsepower. So a gain of 25 Horses. . @ 180 F 20W-50 has viscosity around 34 cSt _ 5W-30 has viscosity around 18 cSt. 15 Hp
Last edited by Mattax; 02/29/20 11:51 PM.
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Re: Is my oil pressure too high?
[Re: Mattax]
#2747934
03/01/20 03:18 AM
03/01/20 03:18 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,741 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,741
Bend,OR USA
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One of the first tests I did on straight 20Wt Valvoline non synthetic which showed that oil made the same power at 80 F oil temps as it did at 220 F That was on a pump gas iron headed motor that barely made 500 HP and it took a long time to get the oil temps up to 220F running it at 2500 RPM with small dyno load on it. We had to turned the fans off to the dyno room, both inlet and outlets to get the oil that hot I would shoot for between 160 F and 180 F water temps on the dyno pulls. I was concentrating on making the same power as much as possible for bracket cars back then IHTHS
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 03/01/20 03:19 AM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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