No

Didn’t think so.

So why do guys still advocate bleeding the right rear first, then left rear, then right front then left front.

Just wonderin’.

I’m guessing just a habit from the old single master days?

Mostly habit. ABS? if not, typically the rear line will run to the rear, then split. Same with the fronts, single line out will split at some point. Just trying to get the air out of the longest runs first. Hit all 4 corners, run the pedal a few times, and hit all 4 corners again two or three times to verify. Use clear tubing on the bleeder to see what's coming out.

Depends. Does your OCD let you sleep at night if you don't? Unless the system was really nasty, I just run it until I get clean fluid. I suppose one could pull the caliper and shake it up or turn it upside down and pump some fluid through. If it's that bad, maybe need to fix or replace the components.

OCD and properly emptying and cleaning out the junk brake fluid ?

Whaaat ? ... might I suggest you FOCUS on the topic at hand !!

I was trying to answer th.....oh look, a squirrel!

Ahhhh YES .... cMc .., the squirrel !

take a look inside the plastic reservoir of a new vehicle that has a single fill spout peeking out from under the cowl. it will fill BOTH sides of the master, with a divider wall only about 3/4 of the height of the reservoir. yes, they DO mix until the fluid level reaches a certain point, due to "xxxx" happening.
the old iron, four bolt masters were indeed separate chambers that could not merge with each other.
and then again, look at the "cross brake" operation of certain K cars and early minivans. those were bled left rear, right front, right rear, left front. [or maybe the opposite, i forget]

Good point Moparx - but thankfully no one here has brought up the K car system in this discussion and if they did the rear right then rear left would not hold true either. (I forgot about those split systems back in the day).

Anything merging in the common reservoir would still not dictate rr/rl then fr/fl I don’t think.

The common plastic reservoir Mopar master cylinder is open in the top of the tank to equalize the level under normal conditions. Once fluid exits the master cylinder front and rear systems are separate, or should be. ABS and some weird experiments from the past will be different. I try to not work on any of that anymore and just deal with the race/muscle car stuff.

That's what motivated me to get a pressure bleeder.

No, don't do it, its a different chemistry fluid. It's an absolute no-no on an ABS/ESC vehicle especially, Keep in the gylcol fluids (3/4/5.1). New systems only if paint is more important to you than brake pedal feel.



I know that specific car well, but for a brake fluid flush there should never be any air in the system, and it has no way of getting in (cap is still the highest point in the system). When you do have air, the ESC module being on the passenger side of the car behind the headlight makes it have more runs of almost horizontal tubing so they want some bubbles in that to come back to the master cylinder.



The diagonal split system is the most common system on the road now, basically in everything short of pickups, wrangler, charger/challenger/300 has it now. So FR/RL is one circuit and FL/RR is another. If Doc is talking anything FWD, it's got that system.

As far as why you'd bleed the furthest away first, its just to get the longest run done first. If you were taking air out you'd want to do this anyway so it's a force of habit.

So how much new fluid is used to do a flush like this? several minutes at each bleeder with a pressurized system sounds like it could be several gallons of fluid.

I called a local Toyota dealer here ... service manager was speechless...when asked about the COMPLETE FLUSHING of the caliper !

I'll bet.

Well cMac ... how would YOU shuck and jive if you jsta quoted on a complete brake fluid flush for 180$ when the way they do it does NOT flush out ALL the contaminated fluid ?

That sounds downright cheap, that's an hour of labor around here at a dealer.

Dealership labor rates are 180$ per hour ?

....and they’re not doing the job right ??

This is what I do.
No idea what some might charge as I can't see paying 4 something I can do myself.
I would suggest looking for some one offering the job at a price a person would find exceptable.

No, don't do it, its a different chemistry fluid. It's an absolute no-no on an ABS/ESC vehicle especially, Keep in the gylcol fluids (3/4/5.1). New systems only if paint is more important to you than brake pedal feel.

DOT 5 is silicone based, but from my understanding they can be mixed with DOT3 &4. The DOT won't leave it up to the end user to make that call whether they can be mixed or not, they are compatible correct? Please elaborate on pedal feel. Does the DOT 5 compress more than the glycol based 3 and 4? On a fresh system why would it be a disadvantage to run 5?

Jeff