Hi!
I am looking into installing Cal Tracks on a 68 Charger with xhd leaf springs. Mancini offer them in different configurations: 20- 21- and 22" front spring segment. Drag profile and low profile. Wich ones should I use? Mostly street driven, but leaves a lot on the table during launch at the track.

Have you considered using the Calvert split leafs?

They are designed to be used with split Mono's. I tried using with some SS springs initially and the car porpoised badly off the line.

I installed the whole system and now it works properly. Even the Calvert (old Rancho) 9 position shocks work well. Great 60 ft. and much more consistent.

I used the 20" front segment for the sole reason that's what my car came with originally.

I just bought a pair of +1" ride height Calvert split mono leaf springs and Calvert sliders for my 440+6bbl 70 Roadrunner..
I chose to add SMITH RACECRAFT ASSASSIN traction bars to the combo, because they function in a similar manner as the Caltracs, BUT are a little more adjustable, and appear to be of the UTMOST in detailed build quality and materials.
Check out Smith Racecraft Assassin traction bars BEFORE you get Caltracs (Caltracs are very nice) and also consider getting multiple parts to make for the best result, in other words split mono leaf springs, traction bars, and really good rear shocks!

68 Charger comes with 22in segment, I have the drag profile on my 68 Charger

based on everything I have read , they will not like the HD leafs.

I agree, I have the split mono

I run caltracs with xhd springs , been like that for 8 or 10 years . Had rancho/calvert shocks now have Vikings. On rear .
You order the caltracs to suit your spring , XHD should be 22" in yours .
Daily driver , serious bracket racer .
Would split monos be better , maybe . Wont know until i try them . Not in budget at moment .
Been 1.42 sixty .
If mostly street i wouldnt get to hung up on monos . Get the best shock you can afford .
I am not sure how long monos will hang in there for regular street use plus heavy loads . I carry rear race wheels , spare , trolley jack etc in the trunk when going racing . Place all the other stuff in car

Tex

9k miles on my mono's 4050lb car, still good

Like Tex some folks have been able to successfully run the Cal-Tracs with other springs. However lots of others have not.

However if you are buying spring anyway, I don't see any reason not to get the split leaf monos. However I don't know if there is a premium for the Calvert springs.

Calvert has excellent customer service and the more of their stuff you run I would think the more they could help you.

I looked at changing to the Smiths assassin bars too for the same adjustability options but I don't like the that you have to drill a hole through the leaf spring. I feel this could make it weak and bend at that most stressed area. Anyone have any real world experience with these?
I stuck with the Caltracs in the end as I know they work.

For what it's worth you can get them through summit now. Might be cheaper with discount.

This.
This isn't with the split monos on, but the ride height is the same. 20" front segment because I already had the extended front hangers for the Super Stock springs that were on it.

Thanks for all input so far!
New springs are not in the budget for now. The car is good as it is and works great on the street. At the track (unprepped), with a mildly cammed 512, manual trans and 10,5" slicks and launch from 2000 rpm
it blows the tires loose at an instant and drifts a bit to the right after hooking in second and third gear. Not very efficient. It also sways up and down quite a bit at the first part of the burout. I would be happy if I could gain control over the rear end to hook it better, go straigt and not sway up and down. I am not after the last thousands now, but am sure better control would cut the 60' quite a bit.
Launching from much less than 2000 rpm is tried, but will bog down the engine. Had a 440 in it earlier and that worked better with a little wheel spin till it hooked - with the wheel spin preventing bogging. The stronger engine just blows the tires loose and revs right up past 6000 rpm in no time - rpm limiter needed. Heavy car, 4.300 lbs with me in. Ran 1/8 mile in the 8.50's with the 440. 8.20's with the 5.12, but 60 ft didn't get any better, more the other way.

Are you racing on radials or bias ply tires?
If radials try a set of bias ply for your stick shift car

Go for the mono's which will help reduce weight as well. Now to just fine tune this thing with double adjustable Stange on the rear and single adjust on the front.

If you already had the springs and we’re just adding bars, that would be one thing. But if you’re buying both components, why in the world would you choose to mismatch a setup instead of buying components that work correctly together?

Same set up on our '69RR except calvert 9 ways/90/10's for now, caltracs worked ok with SS springs previous with mild 440, now with big wedge motor.

My shocks seemed to work better when we made them more vertical. I had a guy fab upper mounts to move the tops toward the wheel.

I originally had the Rancho's that Calvert sold in mid 2000's and stock springs with small bottom spring removed, that was the thing to do back then and worked well. Maybe the Rancho's are rebranded to Calverts as I think the rancho's were 9 way adjustable as well.

What are people doing on original set up of the CT's? I think a 1/4 turn preload on the passenger side and a nickel gap on the driver? My car was going slight left at the hit last time out but then again a few cars were doing that.....