Proforged upper ball joint
#2735602
01/22/20 02:04 PM
01/22/20 02:04 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 299 Hinckley, Ohio
KWF340
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 299
Hinckley, Ohio
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Has anyone used the Proforged upper ball joints and if so did you have any issues? Mine seem to be a very tight fit in the control arm and before I start forcing things I just wanted to see if this is the norm.
The first pic shows the “old” ball joint sitting in the control arm (I believe the control arm is original to the car). Notice how it drops all the way to the threads. The second pic shows the Proforged ball joint on the same control arm (part number 101-10126 – which corresponds to a '69 B-body). Notice how much distance there is from the threads to the control arm.
The Proforged ball joint is a VERY snug fit in the control arm and it will require some force to get it to move down so the threads engage with the control arm (this doesn't seem right to me). My next step is to put the ball joint in the freezer for a few hours and heat the control arm to see if that helps.
Has anyone seen this before or have any thoughts? For what its worth the control arms are bare (just RPM'd).
Thanks.
1968 Charger R/T, 440 Auto, GG1; 1969 Super Bee, 383, 4-speed, T5; 1969.5 Road Runner, 440-6, 4-speed, 96; 1970 Duster 340, 4-speed, EV2; 1970 Charger R/T SE, 440 (496), Auto, EB3; 1970 Dart Swinger 340 (416), 4-speed, EV2; 1970 Corvette coupe, LS5, 4-speed, Daytona yellow; 2000 Corvette coupe, LS1, 6-speed, Twin Turbo, Torch red.
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Re: Proforged upper ball joint
[Re: KWF340]
#2735620
01/22/20 03:06 PM
01/22/20 03:06 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,707 North Dakota
6PakBee
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,707
North Dakota
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Have you measured the OD of the joint below the threads? Mr. Caliper is our friend!
"We live in a time when intelligent people are being silenced so that stupid people won't be offended".
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Re: Proforged upper ball joint
[Re: 6PakBee]
#2735621
01/22/20 03:12 PM
01/22/20 03:12 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 299 Hinckley, Ohio
KWF340
OP
enthusiast
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OP
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Posts: 299
Hinckley, Ohio
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Yes and yes tight. You have to remove the black paint from threads, that help a lot with install also use some anti seize before assembly. The other problem I had was lower ball joints would not except grease, I could not find any obstructions behind grease fitting, changed grease fittings, still no go. Client wanted to put car away for winter, so once he is driving it again he will be bringing back for me to check if the drive to and from storage helped with clearance or I am installing fast wearing moogs. Thanks - I'll try removing the paint and see if that helps. I also have the Proforged lower ball joints. I haven't tried to grease them up, but from what you are telling me I'm starting to wish I didn't go with them. Have you measured the OD of the joint below the threads? Mr. Caliper is our friend! No not yet. I actually thought about that after I posted. I'll take a measurement tonight.
1968 Charger R/T, 440 Auto, GG1; 1969 Super Bee, 383, 4-speed, T5; 1969.5 Road Runner, 440-6, 4-speed, 96; 1970 Duster 340, 4-speed, EV2; 1970 Charger R/T SE, 440 (496), Auto, EB3; 1970 Dart Swinger 340 (416), 4-speed, EV2; 1970 Corvette coupe, LS5, 4-speed, Daytona yellow; 2000 Corvette coupe, LS1, 6-speed, Twin Turbo, Torch red.
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Re: Proforged upper ball joint
[Re: KWF340]
#2735629
01/22/20 03:30 PM
01/22/20 03:30 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,036 Benton, IL.
DaveRS23
Special needs idiot
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Special needs idiot
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,036
Benton, IL.
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Over the years, I have had upper ball joints that I have had to use 3/4" air impacts to twist in and have had some that wouldn't tighten up, only spin and spin. I'ld throw some lube on the threads, internal and external, and hit it with the impact. Worse that could happen is that you would have to replace them. But I bet it will go with enough persuasion.
Master, again and still
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Re: Proforged upper ball joint
[Re: DaveRS23]
#2735641
01/22/20 04:49 PM
01/22/20 04:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,506 Eagle, Idaho
Neil
The Doctor is in.
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The Doctor is in.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,506
Eagle, Idaho
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I chickened out and bought NOS ones on the last ones I did. You know they should fit right and were old school USA made as well.
For the install I have always been able to turn them in by hand with a breaker bar followed by a torque wrench. I like being able to feel by hand what is going on as far as binding up or not.
One set I did that was a little too loose I took a crescent wrench and gently bent the control arm opening inward on itself by going around the outside many times over. I was able to get the torque I needed so it did work.
Last edited by Neil; 01/22/20 04:54 PM.
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Re: Proforged upper ball joint
[Re: KWF340]
#2737382
01/28/20 11:23 AM
01/28/20 11:23 AM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,358 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,358
north of coder
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Have you measured the OD of the joint below the threads? Mr. Caliper is our friend! No not yet. I actually thought about that after I posted. I'll take a measurement tonight. [/quote] what did the measurement difference turn out to be ?
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Re: Proforged upper ball joint
[Re: moparx]
#2737418
01/28/20 01:07 PM
01/28/20 01:07 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 299 Hinckley, Ohio
KWF340
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 299
Hinckley, Ohio
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what did the measurement difference turn out to be ? I've been feeling under the weather the last few days so I haven't gone out and worked on it. I'll measure them tonight and see what the difference is.
1968 Charger R/T, 440 Auto, GG1; 1969 Super Bee, 383, 4-speed, T5; 1969.5 Road Runner, 440-6, 4-speed, 96; 1970 Duster 340, 4-speed, EV2; 1970 Charger R/T SE, 440 (496), Auto, EB3; 1970 Dart Swinger 340 (416), 4-speed, EV2; 1970 Corvette coupe, LS5, 4-speed, Daytona yellow; 2000 Corvette coupe, LS1, 6-speed, Twin Turbo, Torch red.
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Re: Proforged upper ball joint
[Re: KWF340]
#2737548
01/28/20 10:04 PM
01/28/20 10:04 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 299 Hinckley, Ohio
KWF340
OP
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OP
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Posts: 299
Hinckley, Ohio
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Just measured the original and the new uppers. The difference between the two is about 4 thousandths, and that was with the new ball joint still cold from being in the freezer. I pressed them in until the threads just got to the top of the control arm and then hit them with the impact. It did not take much force to press them in to the threads.
The big difference between the two is the old ones have a tapered front end (the taper ending about a quarter inch from the front end), while the new ones do not. This makes the original easier to get started into the hole.
Last edited by KWF340; 01/28/20 10:10 PM.
1968 Charger R/T, 440 Auto, GG1; 1969 Super Bee, 383, 4-speed, T5; 1969.5 Road Runner, 440-6, 4-speed, 96; 1970 Duster 340, 4-speed, EV2; 1970 Charger R/T SE, 440 (496), Auto, EB3; 1970 Dart Swinger 340 (416), 4-speed, EV2; 1970 Corvette coupe, LS5, 4-speed, Daytona yellow; 2000 Corvette coupe, LS1, 6-speed, Twin Turbo, Torch red.
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Re: Proforged upper ball joint
[Re: moparx]
#2737659
01/29/20 11:58 AM
01/29/20 11:58 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,021 Tulsa OK
Bad340fish
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,021
Tulsa OK
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I would imagine the aftermarket might build in a small amount of oversize since they know this is going in 50 year old stuff most likely. Maybe?
I haven't used pro forged on my Barracuda yet but I bought them for my Jeep a few years ago. So far the ball joints from them have out lasted the moog stuff subtantially! My jeep has oversized tires and ball joints are kind of regular service, the pro forged stuff is hanging in way better.
68 Barracuda Formula S 340
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Re: Proforged upper ball joint
[Re: Bad340fish]
#2737989
01/30/20 08:59 AM
01/30/20 08:59 AM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 299 Hinckley, Ohio
KWF340
OP
enthusiast
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OP
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Posts: 299
Hinckley, Ohio
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thanks for the measurement, and i'm glad you got them to work ! Thanks! I would imagine the aftermarket might build in a small amount of oversize since they know this is going in 50 year old stuff most likely. Maybe?
I haven't used pro forged on my Barracuda yet but I bought them for my Jeep a few years ago. So far the ball joints from them have out lasted the moog stuff subtantially! My jeep has oversized tires and ball joints are kind of regular service, the pro forged stuff is hanging in way better. Good to know that they've been trouble-free for you. I was a little worried at first, but it didn't take much to get them in. It does make sense that they would be slightly oversized to make sure the threads bite in control arms that likely have been through several ball joints.
1968 Charger R/T, 440 Auto, GG1; 1969 Super Bee, 383, 4-speed, T5; 1969.5 Road Runner, 440-6, 4-speed, 96; 1970 Duster 340, 4-speed, EV2; 1970 Charger R/T SE, 440 (496), Auto, EB3; 1970 Dart Swinger 340 (416), 4-speed, EV2; 1970 Corvette coupe, LS5, 4-speed, Daytona yellow; 2000 Corvette coupe, LS1, 6-speed, Twin Turbo, Torch red.
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