I pretty much ALWAYS reuse the gasket. It usually wants to come off with the lid but may be stuck to the body in places. Gotta unstick it from the base where needed before lifting the lid off.

This afternoon I took apart the Eddy 750 carb that was originally on the car when this all started. The floats were not hung up at all and were at the proper settings. I cleaned the needles and seats even though they did not look dirty. In fact, everything inside the carb looked bright and clean. I also blew everything out with air before reassembly. Put the carb back together and back on the car. Pulled all the plugs again and dried them all off. Tried to start the car and no dice. Strong smell of gas and the carb was wet all over. I guess I will have to try replacing the fuel pump although I have never had nor heard of a fuel pump that pumped too much fuel when it went bad. I'm getting tired of all of this. Time to start ridding myself of my cars.

Did you ever check to see what the fuel pressure is? Seems like a couple of tests is better than throwing parts at it.

Did you check the fuel cap.. is this car in a heated shop.. what year is the car

I did open the cap but it made no difference and while I do have heat in the garage, I haven't had it on due to the 40 degree temps. 67 GTX.

If you want to rid yourself of the GTX you can send it my way.

I'm still looking for my old '67, RS23L77152552

I don't know if I missed it but I didn't see if you were using a mechanical or electric pump really doesn't matter but it sure sounds like the fuel pressure is too high and blowing past the seats in the carb.

Critical......I see many people running mechanical pumps w/out a regulator stating that it doesn't matter but it sure the hell does. AND if the car lands on the crown/top of the eccentric, it will hold pressure unlike an electric pumping fuel till it bleeds off....

I don't think that is true as the fully depressed lever compress the spring and creates the vacuum to draw in fuel. No pressure as the cam, lever hold diaphragm up. Plus, non of these mechanical pumps have perfect check valves, in fact usually there is a bleed hole in check valve button for anti-perc purposes. So pressure would bleed back to tank.

I am really confused about the non vented cap also. Unless I am missing something, must be a lot of folks with plugged tank vents and collapsed fuel tanks from the suction/vacuum pulling them inward.

I also think we need a lot more information on where fuel is specifically leaking out from to flood all the cylinders. If the pump overcame seat force and kept needle open the fuel should spill out the vents on the top? Is the top of the carb wet?

If a venture gasket was missing you could wind up with normal fuel level spilling out raw fuel into venture. Or if the bleeds were plugged causing a syphon action that would continue to leak fuel out venturi nozzle. It is even possible an accerator pump nozzle can drip from syphon effect if the closed design.

Having said all that, the fact that two different carbs do this, does lead you to believe something else is at issue unrelated to carb.

If it was a pressure problem with the tank when you removed the line to the carb it would have sprayed gas everywhere. If it's heat soak it won't do it cold and normally will start after cooling off without cleaning the plugs. So I think the car fooled you and us into thinking it flooded when you parked it but I believe the pump pressure is too high and is flooding the car as you're trying to start it.

Mike

"I don't know if I missed it but I didn't see if you were using a mechanical or electric pump"

The fuel pump is a factory type mechanical pump.

"I also think we need a lot more information on where fuel is specifically leaking out from to flood all the cylinders. If the pump overcame seat force and kept needle open the fuel should spill out the vents on the top? Is the top of the carb wet?"

With the original carb, only the plugs were showing signs of excess gas, nothing pouring out of the carb itself.. When I put the 2nd carb on (which was another Edelbrock although lesser cfm), gas was pouring out the vents on top as well as the plugs flooding. I took that carb apart today and it was the same as the first, floats not stuck and set properly and the needles and seat were clean.

"If it was a pressure problem with the tank when you removed the line to the carb it would have sprayed gas everywhere."

Just a little dribble when I disconnected the fuel line from the carb.

"Having said all that, the fact that two different carbs do this, does lead you to believe something else is at issue unrelated to carb."

This is why I asked if a bad fuel pump could over pump fuel vs. the typical loss of fuel pressure.

Keep in mind, I have not changed anything on the car prior to this occurring, just parked it in the garage like normal. The fuel pump and carb. are the same ones that were on the car when I bought it a couple of years ago and I hadn't had any issues of this nature since I bought it.

Change the pump

Well FP can rise when the air dome diaphragm hardens and no longer acts as a damper. Now on compression of diaphragm via spring pressure you windup with a higher pressure since no deflection of the air dome. Whether it is so high to overcome needle pressure not sure but plausible.

EB do require a lower pressure then the orig carters. They use a smaller float and larger orifice which means less force available on the needle to hold back the greater force generated by the FP pressure when a larger orifice is used. Think Brake cylinder diameter. Same effect.

What seems confusing to me, is the bowls probably start out dry or at least low. Your only cranking at a slow rpm and at some point the car should start before the bowl is so high it overflows. So maybe some other issue preventing proper starting that is ultimately leading to a flooded engine too.

so what is your fuel pressure? pretty easy to check

I agree with Dragon Slayer's analysis.

It's very unlikely the pump is causing the problem if the pump was OK in previous uses.
Since its only 40*F and the engine is cold, seems unlikely vapor pressure would be the cause.
It's more likely that the needle and seats are not sealing, or the floats are not floating.


The simplest way to narrow this down is tee a pressure gage into the fuel line. Then you'll know where the problem is.

The simplest way to narrow this down is tee a pressure gage into the fuel line. Then you'll know where the problem is.

This has been stated for days . Guess he does not want to check it.

FYI, it's not that I don't want to check it but rather that I can't at the moment as I don't own a fuel pressure gauge. I wanted to rule out the carb being the problem first before buying a gauge to check the fuel pump pressure.

True

You can buy combo gauge at HF for $13.00 How many days have you wasted?

The only time I have wasted is reading your posts in this thread. If all you have to contribute is smart-azz remarks why do you bother to post at all?