Thanks for letting me join, I hope to learn and contribute.

I would like to build a stroker for my 69 Super bee. This car will be street driven 95% of the time with a little strip running 3-4 times a year. I would like to run high 10's in a car with a 727 and a weight of 3900lbs with me in it.

As far as big block parts, I have nothing so I have a clean slate to start with.

So I am asking what is a good combination, I would like to stay with a B block if possible.

Thanks,

Dibley

Cool...But you are hardly a new member here...Looks like your other user name is Warhawk...

That would be my husband. We contacted Tom before I registered to make sure it would be OK since we share a laptop. Did I do something wrong?

Nope! Just double checking!

4.250" stroker kit in a 400 block with Trickflow 240 heads is probably the EZ Button default combo now to make that happen. Wallace calculator says you need 600 HP basically to hit 10.90. Based on what I've seen AndyF do with those heads, you should be able to do that with some ponies to spare without making it a pain to live with.

Kevin

The main compromises with this type of combination usually revolve around what you can tolerate in terms of racy characteristics during street use.
Primarily with regards to the nature of the low speed manners with a big cam, and the stall speed and rear gearing.

Generally, the milder you want it to be for street use.... and still be capable of 10 second ET’s....... the bigger the motor should be, along with it likely costing more.

Take a 10 second 3900lb “race car”...... take out the big cam, the high compression, the race converter, and steep gears....... and it’s not a 10 second car anymore.
Then the challenge becomes trying to get back the lost performance without using the race car parts.

For something that’s “streetable” as opposed to a “race car”........ for that 3900lb range and a 10 second target....... figure on needing an additional 100hp for equivalent performance from the street car vs the race car.

Where you race will also be a factor.
10.90’s are easier at Atco than at Bandimere.

600 to 625 hp is fairly easy to make with a 511 inch low deck. That is a 400 block with a 4.375 bore and a 4.250 stroke. Those parts are all super easy to source and a 511 goes together very easily. I'd use Trick Flow 240 heads, a Trick Flow intake, a hyd roller cam and a Holley Sniper Xflow throttle body EFI system. An engine like that will cost you between $12,000 to $15,000 if you start with no used parts on hand. It should be very easy to drive on the street with good manners at idle and low speed.

It may or may not run 10's in a 3900 lb B body, that will depend heavily on driver skill, tire traction, transmission setup, rear gears, chassis setup, etc. If you want to run 10's you can, but the car might not be fun to drive on the street anymore. If you want the car to be fun to drive on the streets then you might end up with a car that runs mid 11's most of the time but maybe goes 10.90 on slicks in good air.

If you want 700 hp then a 511 can be made to do that too but it will have a bigger cam and a little more compression and will have a rough idle and will buck a little when driving at low speeds. Engine building, like life in general, is full of compromises. The more money you have the easier the choices are, but you still have to make them.

This is where horsepower in da blue bottle really shines!

Or forced induction.
A mild turbo deal would have street manners to spare.

Another way to help with that 10.90 goal is stripping away as much weight as possible. 3,900 is pretty darn heavy for a B-body.
What body style is it exactly? Most big block b-body curb weights fall in the 3,500-3,700 lb range from the factory. So you may be guessing on the heavy side with your curb weight. Using the aluminum parts described by AndyF and Fast68 combined with a low deck B-block will be considerably lighter than an all Iron factory 440. A full interior B-body with that type of engine will more than likely wind up in the 3,600-3,700 lb range with driver.

Yes, nitrous is one way to do the trick. In that case I'd use premium engine components so it will handle the extra power output. A high quality forged crank, high quality rods, high quality pistons, top shelf rings and bearings, excellent machine work, head studs, cometic gaskets, etc. Then you should be able to build a very mellow 600 hp street cruiser that easily runs 10's with a 100 or 150 hp shot. If you build the engine and the driveline to handle 750 hp then you should be good to go for a long time. That means a beefed up transmission, heavy duty driveshaft and a Dana 60 rearend.