what would be your suggestion for front and rear sway bars for a stock front suspension, +2" arch rear spring, 69 charger ?
no other plans for suspension.
RB/727 combo.
215-70 front, and 12.50 rear tires. no planned changes there as well.
does 1 1/4 and 7/8 sound about right ?
poly or rubber end links ?
not going to autocross or top speed twisties. just reduce some body lean in the corners.
TIA.

Years ago I did 1 1/4 front & 3/4 rear bars on a '70 Satellite wagon that was optioned like a Road Runner.
Had 14x7 Magnums & 225/70s all around. More rear weight than sedan bodies.
It was pretty capable & neutral, surprised a few folks.
Your combo sounds tire-limited in front, as in "push"/understeer.
Less deflection with poly; deflection detracts from a bar's effectiveness, of course.
Might want to look for an adjustable 7/8 rear bar so you can dial it in better.

I've got a '65 big block, power steering, Satellite hardtop w 225/70 BFG T/A's on Ford 14x6.5 steelies all around.
In front, I installed a 1-1/8" tubular bar. In back installed a 3/4" bar with +1-1/2" arch.
Poly bushings on all the sway links. OEM rubber everywhere else.
For shocks I chose Monroe Matics in front and Monroe Gas-Matics in rear, so the rear is slightly stiffer shocked.
It behaves the way I like it..
Less understeer than stock, turns much flatter without adding harshness, so very streetable.
Stays neutral, but ultimately oversteers at the limit, and the oversteer can be brought on w throttle.
Cheers,
- Art

thanks for the confirmation of my thoughts guys !
was thinking of using poly pivot bushings with the grease fitting in the brackets as well.

IMO, on our Mopars, its always best to pick/install a TB package first and road test, and THEN decide on a front swaybar if needed, and THEN decide on a rearbar to fix the wrong size front swaybar ,to regain balance.

And note, NOBODY has yet reported they picked to large of a TB. ( Ok, I'm sure somebody has, but in most cases, most wonder if they went big enough after installing, but everybody is at least partially happier with any bigger TB)

^^^ Yup.
In technical terms:
I'm sure you've seen old rubber swaybar bushings all mooshed out of their brackets, from accumulated deflection over time...

Bigger TBs would help with lean, dive, lift... and the sway bar would then be used a s a tuning device.

Yes, this is what my swaybar kits came with. Maybe they all do. I don't think the OEM setup is this way.
I specifically chose to keep most of the suspension stock with a lot of OEM rubber to reduce harshness, since my '65 Satellite is primarily a street car.
- Art

If should be noted here any swaybar mounting induced "harshness" can only be transmitted into the chassis when that axles wheels are moving different directions/speeds vertically, ie a speed bump driven straight over will not cause any additional or less perceived "harshness" based on the swaybars chosen mounting configuration.

I really like the Hotchkis sway bars on my 68 Charger, the rear bar mounts with existing holes, VERY easy to install & is adjustable.

Switching to 1.03 TB's was the best first step I made on my B&E bodies, the difference in handling was great. On my 'Cuda I used the Hellwig 1.25 tubular front swaybar and the handling really improved! There was no downside, ride is smooth, body lean gone. The next major improvement you can make is a modern performance tire, T/A radials are not even close! Since I run 13" front discs, I had to go with a 17" rim, if you get a performance tire that is around 27" tall, 90% of folks don't realize it is a bigger wheel, It looks right. This is just my experience for a street driven, non-rally, muscle car.

..this is why it was my choice to use poly bushings on my sways, but kept OEM rubber everywhere else..
- A