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Clutch choice #2726949
12/26/19 12:21 AM
12/26/19 12:21 AM
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hemienvy Offline OP
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Car: 540-in, 3700 lbs, 3.54 Dana, 4-speed, "Just a little street car"

10.5" flywheel / bellhousing

My choices are either Ram or McLeod for a clutch, and the flywheel too.

I know I should, and will, talk to both of them, but before I do, I was just wondering
what folks think of dealing with each of them. I'm hoping either one can supply the
proper clutch, whatever that might be.

Re: Clutch choice [Re: hemienvy] #2726964
12/26/19 02:28 AM
12/26/19 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by hemienvy
Car: 540-in, 3700 lbs, 3.54 Dana, 4-speed, "Just a little street car"

10.5" flywheel / bellhousing

My choices are either Ram or McLeod for a clutch, and the flywheel too.

I know I should, and will, talk to both of them, but before I do, I was just wondering
what folks think of dealing with each of them. I'm hoping either one can supply the
proper clutch, whatever that might be.


You have other choices.

I'd call Rob Youngblood at Advanced Clutches in Idaho and let him pick the clutch. That a pretty heavy car without much gear. Your going to need something that you can tune or you'll get so much plate load it will kill parts.

Call Rob.


Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
Re: Clutch choice [Re: madscientist] #2726970
12/26/19 05:23 AM
12/26/19 05:23 AM
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Rogue River, OR
Jeremiah Offline
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1)Will this little street car get traction?

2) How much weight and hp?

3)Do you own a lift?

If the car has a Quicktime bellhousing that will limit your choices.



Re: Clutch choice [Re: Jeremiah] #2726991
12/26/19 09:39 AM
12/26/19 09:39 AM
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hemienvy Offline OP
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Car will have street tires and will never be launched, if only for the sake of not killing parts.

HP, I don't know, pump gas motor, but a lot of torque on tap.

The bell is OE #2892513, flywheel will be 10.5 aluminum unit.

No lift, just blocks of wood.

I thought maybe a dual disc clutch, but this is where I need advice.

Re: Clutch choice [Re: hemienvy] #2726998
12/26/19 10:07 AM
12/26/19 10:07 AM
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Ohio
Dan Brewer Offline
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Originally Posted by hemienvy
Car will have street tires and will never be launched, if only for the sake of not killing parts.

HP, I don't know, pump gas motor, but a lot of torque on tap.

The bell is OE #2892513, flywheel will be 10.5 aluminum unit.

No lift, just blocks of wood.

I thought maybe a dual disc clutch, but this is where I need advice.


We have a lot of customers using the RST. You didn't mention if your using 23 or 18 spline.
http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.php?prod=MC6913-02


A833 4-speeds, parts & services
http://www.brewersperformance.com/
Re: Clutch choice [Re: hemienvy] #2727056
12/26/19 01:20 PM
12/26/19 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by hemienvy
Car will have street tires and will never be launched, if only for the sake of not killing parts.

HP, I don't know, pump gas motor, but a lot of torque on tap.

The bell is OE #2892513, flywheel will be 10.5 aluminum unit.

No lift, just blocks of wood.

I thought maybe a dual disc clutch, but this is where I need advice.



I'm not a fan of the dual disc clutch. Many are, but I'm not one of them. IMO, for what you are doing a sintered iron disc would be much better, and yes, you can use them on the street. That's why I suggested to call Rob Youngblood. He may tell you I'm off my rocker. But it's worth the call.


Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
Re: Clutch choice [Re: madscientist] #2727091
12/26/19 03:29 PM
12/26/19 03:29 PM
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Washington
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hemienvy Offline OP
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Thanks gentlemen. I do appreciate the advice.

I will say that sintered iron makes me a little uneasy, only from what I know from reading, not from driving.

I should add that I still need to go through the 4-spd that I have, which is a 23-spl, 2.65 gear I think.
At this point I think I would like to retain the synchros, no faceplating.

Dan, that McLeod RST does look interesting !

Re: Clutch choice [Re: Dan Brewer] #2727103
12/26/19 04:06 PM
12/26/19 04:06 PM
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Rogue River, OR
Jeremiah Offline
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Originally Posted by Dan Brewer
Originally Posted by hemienvy
Car will have street tires and will never be launched, if only for the sake of not killing parts.

HP, I don't know, pump gas motor, but a lot of torque on tap.

The bell is OE #2892513, flywheel will be 10.5 aluminum unit.

No lift, just blocks of wood.

I thought maybe a dual disc clutch, but this is where I need advice.


We have a lot of customers using the RST. You didn't mention if your using 23 or 18 spline.
http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.php?prod=MC6913-02



For a throw your wife/brother/etc the keys and enjoy a drive kind of thing I like Dan's idea here. Do those RST deals fit in a quicktime bell? If you were going to beat on it sure a un-sprung sintered iron disc would be best for service life. The syncho's will die first.



Re: Clutch choice [Re: Jeremiah] #2727237
12/26/19 11:56 PM
12/26/19 11:56 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
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Warren, MI
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I have a McLeod Street Twin in my 71 Challenger, 470", 600HP, aluminum Hemi 4 speed, Dana 3.54

Its the only clutch that would hold up. I went through 3 other setups. Only thing is it's, how do I say, grabby. If I'm not careful leaving a stoplight my car will launch 1/2 way through the intersection. Luckily the BB has enough torque to not stall if I release the clutch with very little throttle cause you can't really slip this clutch.

I'm very satisfied with it but I wouldn't throw the keys to just anyone to drive it smile

09232012 428.JPG

www.DetroitMuscleTechnologies.com Mopar body and heater box restoration gaskets
Re: Clutch choice [Re: 71TA] #2727295
12/27/19 09:39 AM
12/27/19 09:39 AM
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Washington
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hemienvy Offline OP
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71TA,

Beautiful car !

Does your clutch have organic lining on both discs ? I'm interested in why it's grabby.
I know you don't want to slip the organics.

Re: Clutch choice [Re: hemienvy] #2727372
12/27/19 01:13 PM
12/27/19 01:13 PM
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Bend,OR USA
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I've seen several different brand street and strip clutches years ago that had organic lining on one side and sintered iron on the other side, the owners said they really like them on the street and strip work


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: Clutch choice [Re: Cab_Burge] #2727429
12/27/19 04:24 PM
12/27/19 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Cab_Burge
I've seen several different brand street and strip clutches years ago that had organic lining on one side and sintered iron on the other side, the owners said they really like them on the street and strip work


That's not sintered iron. That's a bronze metallic piece of crap.


Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
Re: Clutch choice [Re: madscientist] #2727547
12/27/19 11:00 PM
12/27/19 11:00 PM
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Washington
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hemienvy Offline OP
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Mad Sci,
Could you describe what it felt like driving a sintered iron clutch ?
I know this is somewhat like asking "What does beer taste like ?"
I can imagine, but it's just imagining without doing.
I also understand that asking about clutch wear is pointless and depends on everything else in the universe.

Re: Clutch choice [Re: hemienvy] #2727570
12/28/19 12:05 AM
12/28/19 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by hemienvy
Mad Sci,
Could you describe what it felt like driving a sintered iron clutch ?
I know this is somewhat like asking "What does beer taste like ?"
I can imagine, but it's just imagining without doing.
I also understand that asking about clutch wear is pointless and depends on everything else in the universe.



I'm sure many will come along and argue this but I'll post it anyway.

The sintered iron clutch, if properly adapted to your application (meaning you had a Rob Youngblood or a Hyatt or a Cale...dang...can't think of Cale's last name right now but he owns Black Magic Clutches put together a clutch for you that may have different levers or spring rates or what ever) will be the easiest to drive, the easiest on parts and the quickest at the track of any clutch. It's that simple. You'll run so little base load (pressure) it's silly (I'd have to check my notes but off the top of my head I'm running right now, just for street stuff about 875 base load and about 8 grams on all the levers for a total...again going off my head and not my notes about a total of 1200ish pounds of plate load at 7000 RPM so that is really very little and at the track I'd drop the base load down to the low 600's and tune from there) and you can tune the clutch any way you want it.

Everyone squeals at the unsprung hub. With very little base load you'll never know its not a sprung hub. The weight of the disc by itself is a bit heavy, but it's still less that two rag discs and a floater by a ways.

I'd never ever go back to anything else. They are easily the most street friendly clutch I've used. And done correctly, they don't break parts.

You are on the right track in that you already have an aluminum flywheel. That's almost half the battle. A heavy flywheel is a parts killer and you just don't need it.

If for some reason you decide to not use a sintered iron clutch, I'd suggest you look into the clutch tamer. My first choice is always the SO clutch, but the upfront costs and all the nonsense on the interwebs scare some off. The clutch tamer will cover most of the evils of a rag disc clutch and allow you to tune the application of the clutch. In other words, the CT allows you to control how the clutch is applied to the rest of the drive train and the chassis/tire. The SI clutch is my first choice. Any other clutch than that and you'll need a CT.


Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
Re: Clutch choice [Re: madscientist] #2727578
12/28/19 12:42 AM
12/28/19 12:42 AM
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Topeka Kansas
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Cale Aronson

Re: Clutch choice [Re: ksj] #2727590
12/28/19 02:56 AM
12/28/19 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ksj
Cale Aronson


Thank You. For the life of me I couldn't remember his name. His wife Tinzy knows her way around a clutch pretty well too.


Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
Re: Clutch choice [Re: madscientist] #2727593
12/28/19 03:16 AM
12/28/19 03:16 AM
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I'm a Center Force clutch guy. Got one in all my stick vehicles!

Re: Clutch choice [Re: mopacltd] #2727622
12/28/19 10:45 AM
12/28/19 10:45 AM
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South Park, Pa.
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Originally Posted by mopacltd
I'm a Center Force clutch guy. Got one in all my stick vehicles!
. Same here. I've got a DFX in my car now.


4 speed street legal. Best time 10.99 @ 124 mph on 93 octane pump gas @ 3926# total weight
Re: Clutch choice [Re: 68LAR] #2727639
12/28/19 11:44 AM
12/28/19 11:44 AM
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Temperance, MI
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I drove a sintered iron disk on the street in my Hyatt soft loc. Worked just fine. It does squeal a bit when it’s hot during engagement. Kind of sounds like a bad idler pulley. Doesn’t do it when it fully dis-engaged or engaged. This one did require a strong left leg.

2A32D78C-CD10-478D-8EA6-D7636F0B4B1A.jpeg
Last edited by 68 HEMI GTS; 12/28/19 11:45 AM.

68 Dart GTS "HEMI" 10.30 @ 131 pump gas street car 3780#
69 Roadrunner 511 six pack 10.92 drive to track street car
Re: Clutch choice [Re: 68 HEMI GTS] #2727716
12/28/19 02:09 PM
12/28/19 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 68 HEMI GTS
I drove a sintered iron disk on the street in my Hyatt soft loc. Worked just fine. It does squeal a bit when it’s hot during engagement. Kind of sounds like a bad idler pulley. Doesn’t do it when it fully dis-engaged or engaged. This one did require a strong left leg.



Why the strong leg?? I can't read all of what is written on the cover but it looks like 600 pounds at something something. That think should have been like stepping in oatmeal.

The issue with the squealing is almost always because at some point (usually a burnout of you're not careful or the ding dong at the track doesn't understand you don't prep the burnout area the same for a clutch as you do for the pop up toasters of transmissions or you were bee bopping down the road and stood on the throttle with the RPM too low...it happens and yes, ive done both) you've driven through the clutch. IOW's you actually slipped the clutch. It's real easy on a burn out.

When that happens, you need to pull the clutch out, glass bead the disc and scuff the pressure ring and flywheel surface a bit and put it back in. That will stop the squealing.

I've also seen some cheap pilot bushings and even a pilot bearing squeal like that. It's not the same sound, but it's close.


Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
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