What's the best cheater slick?
Planning to attend the "street tire class" in Swedish Street Week.
M/T ET Street 295/55-15 fits my Duster. I have just test mounted a used set, not run them.
If things go as planned car will run high 6's.
I would appreciate only you guys with real experience to comment.

I'm running Hoosier Quick Time Pro's DOT tire. They hook very good at the track.16-18 lbs air. Best time 10.84 @126. 446 and 3.91's. ATI 5200 convertor.

Not sure what you mean by "cheater slick"?

Does it have to be a D.O.T. rated tire? Any tread requirements?

The 275 M/T ET Street Pro is hard to beat if it meets all your requirements.

If this is a "no prep" or a race that's actually run on a street, then you do not want a radial tire. If that's the case, I'd look into the M/T ET Street R bias ply.
If it's at a track that is prepped, you want the M/T ET Street Radial Pro 275-60.

Give us some more info, like the class rules. If your car will run in the 6s, it may well take more than tires to put it there. Practice is one thing that comes to mind.

Yes, for street/no prep style racing we try to get on the surface to figure it out.

Worst case scenario, we add lots of weight right near the rear bumper in the trunk and leave off idle in 2nd gear.

OK, you are correct, more info is needed.
Here are the True Street tire rules:
- Tires marked max 295. Max 16" rims. (If there's only inch measurements 10.6" tread width is max).
- Street slicks with min two longitudinal grooves around the tires will be accepted as street tires during the races.
Other from that:
- No tube chassis cars.
- Max backhalf.

The races are held at race tracks, 1/8-mile.
From the website:
"The tracks will have no prep, but at some tracks there will be prep left from recent races"

I know from previous years the ET's have big variations from track to track. The winner 2019 (69 Corvette) had 5.76 - 6.11
Fastest Mopar was a 48 Dodge truck with a Chebby 350.
Fastest real Mopar a 68 Roadrunner with a turbo 440 (7.25). I know he had zero traction. Mostly because of his setup, he joined in for fun and had a full-time job making his new built engine run properly. Then he blew his differential and had to use a spare 3.23...

As Chip recommended I'd go bias. I run some local street car stuff and have a hard time making radials work. My next set of tires will be bias if the rules allow.

They are gonna allow grooved slicks in True Street Tire class?!?!?!?!? With suspension and chassis mods ?!?!?!?! And last years winner ran in the 5s?!?!?!?!

That is way, way different than the true street tire classes I have ran. For instance, this year our True Street tire class will allow only DOT radials rated 220 tread wear and above, must have at least 3/32 tread depth at all points, etc. And only bolt-on suspension mods. Given all that (and more) our fastest cars run about 7 flat.

With rules like you are running, I would just get a good set of slicks and have a couple of grooves cut.

How much weight gets it done? I sometimes leave in second off idle, but haven't really experimented with weighting the rear. Any tips would be appreciated.

Yup, that's the rules in the class. I guess they wanted all the old street machines to be able to attend.

I failed in my translation: it should be "two factory grooves around the tire"
So no self made grooves.

I see you're a Black Sabbath fan. ("Henry" logo) Have seen them and Ozzy nearly a dozen times. Met Ozzy at a meet and greet. A little, pale guy that still smells of patchouli.

I put about 110 lbs. and seem to hook pretty well. A local car that wins a lot of these type of events has over 300lbs. Test and see what you need! Extra wheels and tires in the trunk make good temporary ballast if you don't want go to the trouble of making a ballast box and buying lead.

Thank you. That is a good starting point to test from. The spare tire, with maybe some additional ballast in it is a cool tip.

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As Chip recommended I'd go bias. I run some local street car stuff and have a hard time making radials work. My next set of tires will be bias if the rules allow.

[/quote]

My wish is to not bring any extra wheels. You have to bring all the parts in (or behind) your race car so maybe a set of front runners but a pair of slicks will be tough...
I don't really wanna drive a week on bias ply's and I was hoping a tire that could both give good bite on track and give somewhat good handling when the road turns.

I've heard so much positive about Mickey Thompson Pro Bracket Radial but it seems like you can't get them with factory grooves that goes all the way around.

Been looking around a little and this is the best I can find in radial:
M&H Racemaster Radial Drag Race Tires ROD16 275/60R15, https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mnh-rod16/overview/

You bet I am!
Haha, I can believe he can smell different
I saw them in Birmingham at their final gig

E

As Chip recommended I'd go bias. I run some local street car stuff and have a hard time making radials work. My next set of tires will be bias if the rules allow.

[/quote]

My wish is to not bring any extra wheels. You have to bring all the parts in (or behind) your race car so maybe a set of front runners but a pair of slicks will be tough...
I don't really wanna drive a week on bias ply's and I was hoping a tire that could both give good bite on track and give somewhat good handling when the road turns.

I've heard so much positive about Mickey Thompson Pro Bracket Radial but it seems like you can't get them with factory grooves that goes all the way around.

Been looking around a little and this is the best I can find in radial:
M&H Racemaster Radial Drag Race Tires ROD16 275/60R15, https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mnh-rod16/overview/


[/quote]

The M/T and Hoosier tires I looked at are dot approved so no need to carry extra wheels.

Maybe not the best but the Hoosier QTP's work pretty good on my junk but w/tubes only as the side walls get smashed at the hit.....1.34 so far foot brakin at 2200 then mash and they are the 29x13.5's......