After some research and a few nudges (thank you HardcoreB!) towards using the 18725643 firing order on my next 511. I was thinking that perhaps I am not the only guy thinking about this upgrade (if it really is one) and that maybe we could get a deal on say 10 cores. If there is interest I will pursue the matter further.

Please feel free to disseminate any info you have on firing order swaps. At the "going rate" it is "only" $550 more, or about 2x the price of a custom solid roller. I was kind of against it based on sticker shock but then the little racer buddy on my shoulder reminded me of the other items that cost 2x parts that would have worked "just fine".

My reasoning for trying this is to reduce crank flex and to better distribute the load across the bearings.

Thanks for looking!

if you’re looking to have a run of cores made, you should check with whoever is making them, as I would assume they will likely want them all to be the same...... to be able to get a price break on them.

There isn’t a whole lot of latitude on how much you can change what the basic core is made like, for your finished product.
It’s not as simple as a “firing order swap”.

If one guy wants a .425 lift 114 lsa cam, and another guy wants a .470 lift 110lsa cam..... that’s two different cores.

One core vs 10 cores....... what’s the price difference?

Maybe I haven't searched in the right places, but I haven't found consistent or conclusive benefits documented from firing order changes. It seems to fall under the "it depends" category...

That makes good sense. I wasn't 100% sure where the setup time was spend for tooling up an operation like that. I'd rather sound like an idiot here it's you folks are more forgiving : D

For that price, I would think you could get a tool steel billet. The “core” would be the same, as it is just a round chunk of steel.

They come rough but not a big round piece of steel. The LS firing order is specific to the cam core.

semi finished cam core:

This is what most cam grinders start out with...... which they buy from a core manufacturer like Engine Power or Camshaft Machine Co.

If you want something that won’t fit on an available core, and they have to make it as a one off from a piece of bar stock...... it’s going to be expensive...... and a little time consuming.
First, they make the core...... then they send it out for heat treating....... then when it comes back they rough in the profile..... then finish the profile.
Not all can grinders have the equipment to build the core from scratch, in which case they will have to have it done by one of the core manufacturers........ then have it shipped in for them to put their profile onto it.

Tool steel cam starts as raw bar. Completely cnc machined start to finish, no heat treat. Usually done for higher end builds with unusual needs.

A single odd ball cam out of tool steel would likely be cheaper than a single custom heat treated core. Maybe a 10 count would lower the price of the heat treat core.

Sounds like something that would be way more $$$ than what the OP is asking about.

With an even smaller number of places able to supply them.

What’s a tool steel cam cost?

I was given a range of 1100-1500 for a low deck Dodge early hemi roller. Most of the bigger race cam companies can do them.

I agree, A roller cam core effectively starts out as a raw solid round bar anyway in most cases I believe..

And the cam core for the OP's stated reasoning, he should research further and understand some have chosen one additional firing order swap, (2/3 swap), which is the direction I am going, and doesn't coast a dollar more on the custom cam.

The question is...what firing order would you use?

My intention is to use do the 2/3 & 4/7 swap. I just had to use the LS firing order for this post.

If none of the core suppliers offer that as a normal semi finished core....... then it’s likely going to cost $850+ to get what you want.

Follow-up...
1. Read this: https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/engine/firing-order-swaps-whats-best-for-your-engine/
2. Save your $$$

Great info.

I can't do any back to back but my current engine has a 4-7 swap and it is the smoothest running engine I have had. Comp suggested the swap because it was easier on the rear most crank journal and it moves the hot spot of two neighboring cylinders firing closer to the water exit.

VERY enlightening. Thank You for posting that link.

Not saying that you won't see ANY benefits. However, for the cost estimates being mentioned above, it doesn't sound like a good "bang for the buck" for the caliber of engines most of us on here build.

I'm as guilty as anyone at spending money on the wrong things.