Hi all! Just wondering if anyone on here has tried using offset upper bushes as well as the Moog “problem solver” cam bolts that are more offset to get extra caster? Did it work? I need a wheel alognment soon to put my car back on the road, i have the offset bushes in, and have the cam bolts ready to go. Just trying to figure out if its worth doing? Thanks guys!

Yup.

I have stock cam bolts, but offset upper bushings. I was able to get +4* caster, -.5 camber. With adjustable strut rods added in, I was able to get to +6, -1 with room for a bit more of both.

[i][/i]thanks Guys, im hoping to get around 6 deg pos caster , so might have to use cam bolts as well so i dont need to buy adjustable stru rods. Wonder if i could maybe just change the rear cam bolts?

I don't think that there is such a thing as an aftermarket cam bolt with MORE range built into it. Look at how the stock ones are made: They have the large outer flat "Washer" that fits between the ridges in the UCA mount then the shank of the bolt is sized to match the inner diameter of the UCA bushing. There is no way I can see to alter that to get more range. I could see grinding off the"stops" in the UCA mounts and moving them to allow whatever range you have to be moved further in or out to meet your needs but aside from that, I don't know. There are tubular aftermarket UCAs that are designed to begin their range of travel in the positive and all adjustments from the baseline take you into MORE caster. In other terms, the upper ball joint mount is already rearward more thanit is with a stock OEM control arm.

I wouldn't want to use adjustable strut rods to dial in caster anyway, that just binds the lower control arm pivot when doing so...

I have that impression as well. It seems that it would expedite LCA bushing failure too.

The camber / washer part is more offset than stock, so it has a more extreme range

Do you have a link to these, I just searched the Moog catalog and only find the familiar standard cam bolt sets K7030

K7030 is the cam bolt and bushing package, Moog claims the cam bolt allows "Plus Or Minus 2-1/4 Degree Camber And/Or Caster" vie the other offering that allow 1 degree. K8243A is the Moog number for just the cam bolt,

I think someone with both types and a dial caliper would have to measure things out and see what, if anything, is the difference. The pics on RockAuto really don't show a difference.

I think its the package that achieves the extra range, not the cams themselves. I don't see how any more range than what the stock eccentrics have could be built into the part. The stock eccentrics are already offset as far as it can go.

Well they do make a difference! The only difference i can see looks to be the bolt is in the cam on a bit of an angle rather than square in it, that probably doesnt make sense, sorry i didn’t get pics. I used the rear cam only on each side. Then when i cranked it for more caster the upper ball joint moved back maybe 3/8ths or more, probably closer to 1/2 “. If i did the fronts as well it be even more. What ever the difference is it worked, so the offset bushings and these combined should give pos 6 castor. When I eventually get an alignment ill update the thread 👍🏼

With the offset upper control arm bushings and adjustable rods, the alignment guy was able to get +7 comfortably before adversely loading the pin or rod bushings. It was a $200 alignment as the guy had take the wheels off, back the T bars out and unhook the sway bar, adjust the rods, cycle the suspension to check for binding, crack and re-torque the pin bolts (I should have done all that when I assembled it, but live and learn). He lengthened them as much as he could, them then backed them off so I have a good adjustment range.

I went with his recommendation on settings for the street, but there is more to be had if I can extend my talent enough to take advantage.

I had the rods laying around for 5 years or so before they went in a year and a half ago and are an older design that I use with a stock bushing. I'd definitely investigate the bolt route if doing it again.

At any rate, I'm interested to see where the OP's alignment lands.

The cam bolt slot in the car is only so long. A different bolt isn't going to get around that.

Sorry guys, still sorting out teething issue, will def post when alignment is done 👍🏼

Soooo... did you get it done?

I just took my 451 Dart in for its first alignment (tubular UCAs, aluminum strut rod bushings, 16:1 manual box). It's now set up for +3.5 caster, -0.5 camber, 0.10 total toe.
Drives great. The steering is quick but heavy, only really noticeable while stopped. Could have had more caster easily, but I was concerned about even more steering effort

is the 16:1 manual box the same feel as a power box without the power assist?
what size tires are you running on the front?

Just a guess but it seems that the manual would steer easier. The power unit has reaction springs inside, at least the Firm Feel units do. Add to that the bigger components in the power unit would probably require more effort to move.