I know, a 3.75 year old post brought back up... I did not see a newer one. Kevin Johnson will answer an Email real quick, even on the weekends, at least mine.

I ordered a steel small block from Kevin Johnson 2 weeks ago. I needed the 360 with a 4 inch crank stroke. He had them in the mail and to me in about 6 days. But there are some mis-match issues that he could not know of and I can fix. Casting changes to these blocks over the years....

My 5.9 Magnum block is a 2008 made in Mexico, date code 29108. It is a bit different than my E58 360 block. This scraper plate set has smaller pan bolt holes than my blocks 5/16 bolts. The dipstick hole is back 1/2 hole and the dipstick will not go down. But I have hole punches that will punch out these to match up.

The upswing plate needs moved back about 0.040" to clear ALL the 'Phat' counter weights of my Scat iron 4.00 crank. Then just the common grind to clear any tight areas...

The down swing plate is about 3/4" gap in the rear by the oil pump and 7/16 up front. A few of the fingers are not close and 1 was too close and I rebent it. I will be TIG welding on some extensions to the short fingers and maybe put a gusset under so they do not move.

These fit real well on my 273 block so its just the 2008 5.9 block.

Once I get both sides gapped and fitted I will move to modifying my OEM E58's windage tray to fit better. Even with this 4 inch stroke the tray is over 1/2 inch from the closest rod bolt head. I will also punch some 1/2 inch crescent holes in this tray and pound them into louvers for better oil drain back. The stock 5.9 oil pan will get dropped sump by 2 inches and baffled. I have the KEVCO oil pump cover with the pickup on the cover for direct pickup.

I make all my own crank scraper from sheet metal, steel or aluminum. I'll use a piece of stiff carb board, like most after market gaskets come in and a oil pan gasket to get all the oil pan holes located properly and then measure and cut away Once I get it where I like it I'll transfer it onto the sheet metal and finish the trimming it one crank journal at a time with it bolted downon all the oil pan holes I shoot for between .030 and .060 radial clearances, depending on if the motor has steel or aluminum rods
I do like the way they bent the one side up on all the rods and put a drain back hole in it

Kinda the same here. I make the template with almost zero clearance and have Kevin make it. Then I roll pin it to the block and hand finish grind it to about 0.040" clearance.

Kevin offered to redo the one if I mark all the mods to fit this magnum block and ship it back to him. I already started grinding to fit. Kevin recommends drilling and pressing in 2 small location dowels on each plate.

Like I said, it fit my 1965 273 block and stock crank much better but the gaps to the counter weights and rods were way too far on that 3.31 crank.

I am shooting for between 0.040 and 0.050 gaps.

What is your thoughts on my Date code on this Mexican block?

I put one on my 4.15 stroke 528. I didn't see any power gain and had oil leak problems despite more than a couple attempts to seal it better. The problem seemed to be the double layer of sheet metal at the rear. So i guess i can say your results may vary.

I talked to Kevin 4 times on the telephone and he lied to me everytime , good luck

I use between .015 to .042 sheet metal and use a good brand of adhesive silicone between the scraper and the block and half of a oil pan gasket on BB on the other side along with one complete oil pan gaskets and then the windage tray with another gasket between the tray and the oil pan with good results
I do use a oil pan and the half gasket on the other side bolted down firmly over the crankshaft scraper to make it seal the adhesive silicone to it and the block, I let it setup over night also