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engine paint #2720301
11/29/19 06:02 PM
11/29/19 06:02 PM
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taunton, mass. 02780
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moparthunder70 Offline OP
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I know this is going to sound like a stupid question but here goes....about 10 years ago I had my 383 out of my Coronet and cleaned it up with engine degreaser and painted it Hemi Orange out of a spray can (High Temp Engine Paint) Shortly after that the paint peeled...a couple of years later I detailed the engine bay, removed the motor, cleaned and wire brushed it down and sprayed it again...fast foward to now..it's peeling again...in both cases High Temp Engine paint was used....help...

Re: engine paint [Re: moparthunder70] #2720307
11/29/19 06:14 PM
11/29/19 06:14 PM
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West Plains, MO
DrCharles Offline
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I had the same problem with so-called "Engine Enamel" (but only once). Won't be using that crap again! rant

I too would be interested in hearing from those whose engine paint DID stay attached to the block... work

Re: engine paint [Re: DrCharles] #2720311
11/29/19 07:01 PM
11/29/19 07:01 PM
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nowhere
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Sniper Offline
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Did you degrease it?

I just use whatever enamel paint is at Home Depot in a color I like, I follow the directions and it lasts. Painted the 318 in my Diplomat apple green 20 years ago, still there, no peeling. But I don't have a resto car either so the correct color doesn't matter to me.

Re: engine paint [Re: DrCharles] #2720313
11/29/19 07:07 PM
11/29/19 07:07 PM
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So Near, Yet So Far
topside Offline
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Never had a peeling problem, and the 1st engine I painted was in the early '70s. Oldest one I have is still fine 33 years later.
That's rattle-can engine paint, rattle-can "industrial" paint (race cars, non-OEM greys), or Bill Hirsch paint from a gun.
It's critical to start with a clean, grease-free surface.
I always use a primer with some zinc content, though others here don't prime at all.
I scuff the tin with a red Scotchbrite pad after cleaning & before priming.

Ironically, the worst "luck" I've had is with powder-coated wheels; I'll never do that again.

Re: engine paint [Re: moparthunder70] #2720314
11/29/19 07:08 PM
11/29/19 07:08 PM
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Omaha Ne
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TJP Offline
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I suspect it may not be the paint but rather the surface preparation. After cleaning and before painting, the surface should be prepped with a suitable wax and grease remover. Some brake cleaners will work as will acetone followed up with an alcohol rinse. Your local paint supplier may be able to help as well. twocents beer

Re: engine paint [Re: TJP] #2720325
11/29/19 07:47 PM
11/29/19 07:47 PM
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West Plains, MO
DrCharles Offline
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I can't speak for the OP, but I definitely used Grease & Wax Remover then a rinse/wipe (think it was brake cleaner).
Yes, surface prep is usually the most common cause of paint failure, but I knew that and followed directions whistling
I suspect the machine shop sprayed some kind of gray coating or paint on the block to keep it from rusting. Where the paint has come off in big sheets, there is hardly a trace of rust underneath. Maybe I should have sanded first! shruggy

Re: engine paint [Re: DrCharles] #2720326
11/29/19 08:00 PM
11/29/19 08:00 PM
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Omaha Ne
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TJP Offline
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Originally Posted by DrCharles
I can't speak for the OP, but I definitely used Grease & Wax Remover then a rinse/wipe (think it was brake cleaner).
Yes, surface prep is usually the most common cause of paint failure, but I knew that and followed directions whistling
I suspect the machine shop sprayed some kind of gray coating or paint on the block to keep it from rusting. Where the paint has come off in big sheets, there is hardly a trace of rust underneath. Maybe I should have sanded first! shruggy


It may have been exposed to some sort of contaminant like silicone ( think lubricant overspray) and that can be a real problem to get rid of, especially on a porous surface. Sanding typically would only spread it around. The only other thing I can think of would be to use a metal etch solution. beer

Re: engine paint [Re: TJP] #2720329
11/29/19 08:21 PM
11/29/19 08:21 PM
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Round Lake Beach, Illinoisy
Rhinodart Offline
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I use paint from www.hirschauto.com and have never had a problem. I have even brushed it on with no brush marks.


The funny thing about science is that if you change one miniscule parameter you change the entire outcome to the way you want it.

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A-Body's RULE!
Re: engine paint [Re: TJP] #2720330
11/29/19 08:30 PM
11/29/19 08:30 PM
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taunton, mass. 02780
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moparthunder70 Offline OP
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thanks to everyone for their input on my problem...I did use an engine degreaser and wire brush and cleaned the block as best I could....I'm going to do this again but this time I'll try using the brake cleaner and wire brush...while I agree that the problem might be the prep, I did do prep work last time...maybe the third time will be the charmer..thanks again to everyone for your input...I might look into a high temp primer..

Last edited by moparthunder70; 11/29/19 08:34 PM.
Re: engine paint [Re: moparthunder70] #2720341
11/29/19 09:30 PM
11/29/19 09:30 PM
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katakan
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lilred Offline
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Maybe consider finishing of the cleaning using body shop quality lacquer thinner and wiping real well with clean rags before you paint, also an epoxy primer or some good quality etch primer.

Re: engine paint [Re: Rhinodart] #2720361
11/29/19 11:13 PM
11/29/19 11:13 PM
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Charlotte, NC
Kowal Offline
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Originally Posted by Rhinodart
I use paint from www.hirschauto.com and have never had a problem. I have even brushed it on with no brush marks.


I agree, I have used their paint from a rattle can and a quart, always a good result. High solids, dries fast, forgiving of my mistakes. I have it on two engines.


'69 Hemi Charger 500, ‘70 U code Challenger R/T
(These and a bunch others at www.dkowal426.com)

P.J. O'Rouke: "The old car ran perfectly, right up until it didn't."
Re: engine paint [Re: lilred] #2720367
11/29/19 11:28 PM
11/29/19 11:28 PM
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Auburn WA
Dave_J Offline
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I use to wipe the block with acetone, then wipe with muritic acid and then a dulted baking soda water wipe to neutralize the acid followed by clean water. One more wipe with acetone.

Get the block very warm to the touch and lay on light layers of color. I had a old electric wall oven that I built a sheetrocked and R19 insulated paint oven that was 4 foot cubed inside for baking parts. Set it to 150F for 1/2 hour.

All these new paint formulas are crap without the lead and other dangerous chemicals.


Retired, US ARMY 1973-1994
ASE mechanic, Electrical 1994-1997
Retired GTE/VERIZON/FRONTIER 1997-2015


Posting cheap tech help (CRAP) here since Nov 97, 1000's of posts, some may be good.

03 Suzuki Burgman 650(Burger King) Scooter
65 Formula S Cuda
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Re: engine paint [Re: Dave_J] #2720371
11/29/19 11:45 PM
11/29/19 11:45 PM
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Posts: 5,193
NEW JERSEY
AARCONV Offline
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Hirsh paint is the best..flows nice...
https://youtu.be/NI5rdp0R15o

Re: engine paint [Re: moparthunder70] #2720447
11/30/19 02:12 PM
11/30/19 02:12 PM
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Omaha Ne
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TJP Offline
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Originally Posted by moparthunder70
thanks to everyone for their input on my problem...I did use an engine degreaser and wire brush and cleaned the block as best I could....I'm going to do this again but this time I'll try using the brake cleaner and wire brush...while I agree that the problem might be the prep, I did do prep work last time...maybe the third time will be the charmer..thanks again to everyone for your input...I might look into a high temp primer..


The wire brush will likely absorb and spread any remaining contaminants into the pores of the cast iron. With the problems you have had I would strongly encourage getting a metal etch solution from the local auto paint store. Then etch prime,and paint away. Good luck beer

Re: engine paint [Re: TJP] #2720509
11/30/19 08:26 PM
11/30/19 08:26 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,436
Oklahoma City OK
Cudajon Offline
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Oklahoma City OK
After cleaning I use laquar thinner wipe it down and use etching primer. Never had a problem. Next one I do is gonna be powder coated although I know that peels after a few years I like it. I'm hoping the new stuff is better.







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