1970 Cuda. Considering a bolt-on flat fiberglass hood of GOOD quality (which is probably thicker and heavier glass).
Wondering what would be the weight savings over the OE flat hood.
I know there might be other advantages/disadvantages, but just curious about the weight.

Another member may have a better answer but...

I don't have the answer on that hood but on my sons 67 Dart hood and fenders the "Street" weight glass are most likely as heavy or heavier than stock. His HEMI hood may be a bit lighter than the stock hood but not by too much, maybe 5 pounds or so. But his fenders are very heavy.

Race weight fiberglass is much lighter but will crack in use. Not may crack, it will crack. But it is an easy fix and you can add a layer of glass mat on the underside over the common crack areas.

I have a six pack fiberglass hood on my 67 barracuda from AAR and I would say it saved 40-50# over the stock hood. Mine is the bolt on hood.

Steel hood on my 68 Dart took two people to get off. New Fiberglass hood from VFN only takes me to get it off. Has to be at least 50-60 lbs. lighter.
Steel trunk lids are heavy too. Quite a bit of weight savings going to a fiberglass trunk also. Better than fenders imho.

E body hood is heavy. My stock 64 Belvedere hood was 56lbs, hinges 13lbs. Nice AAR hood 21lbs.
Doug

Same here. It might be a 60# savings off the front of the car. My stock hood is very heavy.

Never scaled it, but I'd guess about 35-40 lbs; plus that weight's in the worst place for a drag car.
Hinges, latch, latch support stuff all have some weight.
That said, I liked having hinges and a prop rod on one car, vs the racecar with a lift-off.
Race car has a thin, barely-reinforced hood, enough so that I added some 1/2 x 1/2 angle to the fenders to support it.
It does have some fine stress cracks in it, but then again it's over 30 years old.

Not all glass hoods are equal. My UP22 (junk) 6-pac hood weighs more than my new my Glasstek. I can scale them if it means that much to you.

73325004_392902018319029_9174300381935566848_o by Greg Ault, on Flickr

No matter what, it's worth it IMO in every case.

I do a lot of my own fiberglass, I have switched over to Carbon fiber/epoxy, a superior composite in many ways, it's not that much more expensive and the result is so worth it.

I think my 62 Lancer CF/Kevlar/sandwich hood weighs 11;bs?

OK appreciate it much gents.
I remember reading on here about manufacturers, think it was Fiberglass Trends or AAR or Glasstek that was the best quality ?
NOT Unlimited.

It looks like around 100 pounds off the front to go glass hood + battery in the trunk.
I have aluminum intake and headers,but iron heads. It appears going to aluminum
heads is around 20 pounds per head. That's as far as I'm going with this car.

Unlimited, UP22 is the biggest piece of CR_P EVER !!!!

Thought they got there sh!t together ,I use to own one of there T/A hoods years ago and it wasn't bad. Some one had said they were under new owner ship and had corrected the problems.

Your body & paint guy will hate you, very few are straight as delivered.

Been thinking about going to a glass hood myself, but not much of a selection out there for 71-72 Roadrunners.

You are correct
They are a lot better now since they change ownership and moved out of L.A. up to the high desert in Hesperia, CA.
I've bought two of their lift off race weight 1970 Cuda hoods with the snorkel scoops, the first one was to tall for me to see around in the car so I sold it and bough the next size smaller and they both fit well and was finish very good, a lot better than Fibreglas Trends was when they where open and making parts

IF, IF, IF the new hood is warped and doesn't line up with fenders, or whatever,
how do they straighten a fiberglass piece ?
If you cannot straighten it per se, the only solution I can see is to build up low spots and grind down high spots.

A long time ago, I weighed a factory 72 Challenger Rally hood... ~70-75 #

Factory f-glass T/A hood... ~40-45 #.

Also, the T/A springs are a little lighter than metal hood springs.

Also keep in mind, polyester resin when curing contracts significantly, and the final cure takes more then hours. Its very difficult to account for that shrinkage on 3 dimensional pieces.
Furthermore, once installed uneven heating when in use, IE the sun, engine, etc will cause further temporary distortion. All leading to why CF/epoxy has a much better reputation in use.

JCC, the magic question:
Who makes a CF '70 Cuda bolt-on hood, and how much ?