I usually use MSD race ignition boxes on most of my Hi Pi street and strip cars but I'm hoping someone on here can recommend a good stock type 4 and 5 pin ECU for a stock type Mopar ignition system.
I've heard that some of the stock after market units are better than the Mopar OEM units with higher unrestricted RPM limit and I've heard the opposite also
I have several after market ECU, one from Accel is intermittent on wanting to start good so I replaced it with a stock Mopar black OEM unit and it starts right up but I've seen and heard that the stock ECU RPM are govern to run no higher than 6200 RPM, true or not?
I'm getting ready to license a 1966 Dodge Coronet 2 door Coronet Deluxe 2 door sedan that I put a 440 and NP833 O.D. tranny in it so I don't want the ECU restricting the performance on this car
Any recommendation on which brand and part # to use will be greatly appreciated

Are you planning to spin it up to 6200 rpm or more?

Doesn't seem so with an OD trans.

Most big block Mopars are out of the power band at that high an RPM unless they are built high performance engines.

The issue with most of the 40+ year old OEM is dwell scatter at higher RPM. The Orange box was a bit tighter and the Chrome was said to be best. A Gold box was said to be the ultimate but the one I bought for my car one of my sons 'Friends' needed it more than I did but didn't tell me it just came up missing one day.

But in my opinion, on a 90% street/10% strip car, OEM works very well

Everyone that makes an aftermarket "high-performance" ECU claims great things, but I haven't the time or means to test them, wish someone would.
One thing I've read from various sellers is that the orange box always pulls timing out at higher RPM, though I don't know if that's true.
(If it is true, that may not even be bad, if you recall the concept of high-RPM retard...)
Only recent experience experience with ECUs is a street car I bought with a Rev-N-Nator in it.
With the vac advance hooked up, it'd rattle like mad at upper RPM or full throttle under load.
Sure enough, when I got the instructions from them, they said disconnect/plug VA, set max timing at 36 and go.
I'm still of the opinion that more VA than that under cruise/light throttle is a good thing (obviously not detonating).
I swapped the Rev-N-Nator for a Standard LX101, re-connected the VA, runs the same (if not better) and no detonation.

On the last few hot street/strip deals, I've used an MP dist, FBO plate or limited slots, MSD6, and F150 coil and they've all run great, lit off quickly, no detonation.

[quote=Sniper]Are you planning to spin it up to 6200 rpm or more?

Doesn't seem so with an OD trans.[
/quote]This motor is a little better than stock 3.91 stroke, bigger than stock factory cam, a set of Herb Mc Candless 452 ported big valve heads, RAS 1.6 rocker arms,, Eddy Performer RPM with a later model (List 4781-7) Holley 850 DP , 2.0 headers with a full 3.0 exhaust system to the rear bumper. typical fun street and cruise build, I hope
I'm expecting a little bit above 520HP at or above 5900 RPM hence I don't want he ECU to limit the upper RPM below 7000 RPM
I'm thinking it will stop pulling hard around 5800 to 6400 RPM so when it tongue comes out it is time for me to shift it
Thanks to all of you for the help

just one word ( if we can say like that ):

Rev-N-Nator

http://rev-n-nator.com/index.html

on the replacement for the standard LX101 topside had to made, I'm having detonations issues too with the Rev-N-Nator installed but I think it comes from another area such as incorrect quench ( I'm over 10:1 CR with iron heads ), because once I installed the one being sold by Rick Erehnberg on ebay ( Hi-Rev 7500 ) and got the same. That could be another option on the cheap? but a friend of mine got one and failed after 3 months. I have it as spare.

In the past I was plenty Happy with the A688 FBO unit but just last long around 6 months. That one replaced the Chromed MP, which I got failed 3 in a row in two years. ( Transistor is the culprit ). Both of them got me a crispier spark than any other, but the Rev-N-Nator gets a smoother and faster aceleration curve.

I have not used the Revanator but recently installed the entire distributor and ecu from don at FBO. I really like it. I had a flat spot in the acceleration I could just not get it all out. We had a brand new( from 1999) mopar dist and orange box. The distributor had too much mechanical advance. Bought Don’s system with ecu. Set initial timing at 18 with total at 34 with vacuum plugged in. Idles perfect now with more vacuum for power brakes, no flat spot with a couple of carb adjustments and no pinging with acceleration. Spins the tires, pulls hard and barks the tires with second gear shift (automatic). Customer almost teared up when I took him for a ride. He’s had three other shops try to fix it and even had it on a dyno with three carbs. I’m sold. It was a problem car so I’m going to be using this system on one of mine that runs decent. I bet it will help. One thing I noticed is that the timing was rock solid with my timing light and the flash was much brighter than with the orange ECU. Hope this helps.

I've used them all from the $15 "whatever" boxes to the FBO rev-limiter box. i'm back to the old LX101 boxes in both my cars and will stay there. I do think the chrome is the best general purpose performance box.

I don't understand the term LX101 box. I have never seen one advertised with that name.

that is the "Standard Ignition Products" part number.
available at almost every parts store, rock auto, e-bag, amazon, and other places.

Rev N Nator parts have been back ordered and unavailable all year

Either FBO's HRR688

or the Standard Motors LX101, which is what i use in my Mopars, generally.

Though with the 51 I am converting it to electronic ignition using a /6 distributor, the 4 pin HEI and a Ford TFI coil.

As an experiment,

FBO some time ago


For your information the LX101 is made by SMP the same people who previously made our A688 ECU's for us. As of late 2010 they have sent all their manufacturing on these products to China or Mexico and can no longer produce this ECU in the USA to our spec. The old SMP LX101 was made in Kansas, when SMP bought out Borg Warner years ago the LX101 was superseded to the B/W unit which was built from low end imported components and the performance proved it.

Each of the mentioned ECUs (Mopar & aftermarket) have a different timing latency...
To find the right 1 takes some trial and error for setting initial timing and related distributor advance curve depending upon engine vacuum, carburetor, compression ratio, gears..
It is not just a plug & play, unfortunately today many mechanics or techs lack the experience and/or patience...

Just my $0.02...

I've had excellent results with the Rev n nator and coil with a plate in my distributor from FBO.
I've also very happy with the ECU I bought from E Berger with an FBO plate in my distributor.
Ron

Has anyone tried the Jegs blue ignition control unit?:

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/40805/10002/-1

I am considering it, but I don't need 7,500 rpm either. I might just go with the LX101 for my car, which won't see over 5,500 rpm.

After having some distributor and ignition issues wit the wife's 440 Six Pack Challenger I went with FBO's ECU with RPM limiter, tuned distributor and coil setup.
Not a high RPM race car but a good running street cruiser.
The car has run perfectly for the last 3 years.
I also like the ability to bypass the ballast resistor.

How about a good ol' AC Delco unit:

Link
Link 2

that's the one I mentioned being sold initially by Ricks Erehnbergs on ebay ( HiRev-7500 ) it responded very well on my car for the week I got it while I was waiting for the Rev-N-Nator to be delivered and now is my trunk spare. BUT a friend of mine got it to his Dart and failed after 3 or 4 months.