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Re: Help bleeding hydraulic clutch line [Re: DrCharles] #2715028
11/12/19 09:00 AM
11/12/19 09:00 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,331
Oregon
E
earlymopar Offline
pro stock
earlymopar  Offline
pro stock
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,331
Oregon
Yes, the Wilwood reviews are mostly bad but remember, the people that have good results rarely comment. Mostly people that are upset leave their comments. As well, a good portion of the premature wear can be related to the slave not being in the correct position and having a side-load applied. That's the main issue that causes leaking (and that also relates to additional force).

- EM

Re: Help bleeding hydraulic clutch line [Re: earlymopar] #2715095
11/12/19 12:06 PM
11/12/19 12:06 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,241
north of coder
moparx Online content
"Butt Crack Bob"
moparx  Online Content
"Butt Crack Bob"

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,241
north of coder
would using a fish scale work to measure the force needed on the clutch ?
beer

Re: Help bleeding hydraulic clutch line [Re: moparx] #2715212
11/12/19 07:16 PM
11/12/19 07:16 PM
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,220
West Plains, MO
DrCharles Offline OP
master
DrCharles  Offline OP
master

Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,220
West Plains, MO
The fish scales I know of work in tension (one end is held in the hand, the other end has the fish hung from it. Won't work in compression between my foot and the pedal.

I heard back from Brewer's already up He says the CF702 is 6.5" from hole to pivot, 3.25" from pivot to pads, so a 2:1 fork ratio and 250 lbs force.

That means something is wrong if it still drags - because the throwout bearing only has to depress the fingers 3/8" per Centerforce to disengage, which means 3/4" at the original fork hole. As noted, I have at least that much travel. And there is very little free play, just enough to keep the TB off the fingers. No huge slop in my linkage and I am fairly sure I got the air bubble out. Maybe not.
I'll be home this weekend and can mess with it some more... including starting the engine this time wink

Good point on the reviews. The Wilwood can also use silicone DOT 5 fluid (I asked them), whereas I found out the hard way that the Howe seals don't handle it. And Howe hammered me on shipping too, $17 postage for a UPS box with two thumb-sized O-rings in it down

Re: Help bleeding hydraulic clutch line [Re: earlymopar] #2717364
11/19/19 12:22 AM
11/19/19 12:22 AM
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,220
West Plains, MO
DrCharles Offline OP
master
DrCharles  Offline OP
master

Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,220
West Plains, MO
Originally Posted by earlymopar
Yes, the Wilwood reviews are mostly bad but remember, the people that have good results rarely comment. Mostly people that are upset leave their comments. As well, a good portion of the premature wear can be related to the slave not being in the correct position and having a side-load applied. That's the main issue that causes leaking (and that also relates to additional force).

- EM


I just looked at the spec sheets for the Wilwood and the Howe cylinders:

https://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds751.pdf
https://howeracing.com/index.php/clutch-slave-cylinder-pull.html

It's interesting to note that the Wilwood shows the cylinder body pulling on the clutch fork, and the piston connected via heim joint to the stationary mounting bracket. Whereas the Howe is the other way around (cylinder body connects through heim joint to bracket, and piston pulls on the fork).

I'm not sure why Wilwood would recommend it that way, because the cylinder will move back and forth every time the pedal is depressed, also flexing the hydraulic line. shruggy
Maybe that causes more alignment/side-loading problems? work

Also the Wilwood sheet says not to use DOT 5 silicone fluid for racing or performance driving... which makes little sense since the boiling point is higher with silicone than glycol, and the slight compressibility of silicone shouldn't be important as long as the air is carefully bled. Who knows.

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