I use a 1 wire alternator and ran my wire from the alt to my E switch at the rear of the car. No issues with it. A friend of mine has a Chevy and wired his 1 wire running wire from alt to starter. Which is the correct way. When he cuts his switch it cuts power to alt, mine doesn't.

If the alternator is wired to the starter lug or anywhere else other than the battery or battery side of the master switch, it will keep the engine running and everything else energized after the master switch is turned off. Illegal and not safe.

Simple and effective way to do it is cable from the alternator to the battery or battery side of the master. You will have to keep in mind that cable will be hot as long as the battery cables are attached to the battery. This method does not require any 4 lug masters, relays, extra wiring or other crap to cause problems.

Thanks for that. He's not being honest with me then. He says the master switch kills everything with the way he wired it. I'm wired correct, all is good. Thanks again

Any self exciting one wire unit I'm familiar with will make enough juice to keep everything up and running after the battery is taken out of the system - once it is energized and charging. The stuff I'm familiar with need to see a certain RPM to energize and will continue to provide current after that.

Depending on the alternator, he may be telling you the truth and not know it's incorrect - if he hasn't checked it properly. If it's making voltage, it will keep the system up. Years ago, when use of alternators became popular, NHRA tech would make us start the engine and turn the master off to to see that it shut everything down. Mine wasn't wired correctly and I was careful to not let the engine rev over 3000 to keep the alternator from energizing. Then they wised up and would make you rev the engine above 3K and shove the switch off. Had to redo mine at that point.

My car doesn't even have an alternator and a couple tracks made me do the start/rev thing. I passed both times.

Some of the Delco Remy alternators need to be rev up before they will start making voltage, my old IH Class A motor home had one of those systems, it wouldn't start charging until you rev it up above around 1500 RPM
I've had more than one NHRA tech inspector ask me to rev my motor up above 2000 RPM so they could test the battery cut off switch with the motor running at or above that RPM

Tech inspectors learned that in Tech Inspector School. Just before they had the "How To Detect A Delay Box" class.

One more thing, I've had several 1 wire alts, that when wired to the system in any configuration that leaves them connected to the battery draw current when the engine is off. Most times it's milliamps, other times a couple amps. I have had them kill the battery before. This was most pronounced when the car drew more than the alt could produce, and the voltage at the batt was low. Could be that having the charger connected while running, and other abuse, but either way it did it.

I use a 250 amp can relay that closes the circuit with a switch. The whole circuit is on the control side of the kill to insure it cannot run on after the kill is off.

I know it's more wiring, and possibly unnecessary, but if I have diodes fail in the alt, or whatever may cause this drain i can kill it too. Not to mention if you need that extra round winning .0001 sec, not dragging the alt might help, unless the 5 ounce relay weight cancels the power gain lol

I have mine wired with a continuous duty solenoid to break the alternator power with the disconnect. The wiring seems over complicated because it goes back through the disconnect and through my ignition switch but that is the only way I could do it where the disconnect could be left on and the solenoid killed by the key.

Switched ignition source goes to the back of the car, through the small poles on a 4 pole disconnect switch then back up to the continuous duty solenoid. That way either the disconnect or the key kills the solenoid. Another bonus is that the alternator hot wire is only hot when the key is on. No shorts when jacking around in the engine compartment.

Not having issues with mine right now, but I did have a diode go bad couple yrs ago and kill a brand new AGM battery. Took me a while to figure what was going on. By the time I figured it out the battery was toast.

Mine is as simple as it gets. One wire from alternator back to + battery terminal. Big wire from + battery terminal to cut off switch. Other side of switch obviously up to the starter. Hitting the switch kills the car completely.

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Thats how my cars are wired as well.

Mines just like that.

Had my car completely rewired front to back by a professional last winter. That is how he did mine. I have a 1 wire alt.
All this past season between being at the the track ahd running fan and waterpump between rounds, and street driving, never have had a battery chargers anywhere near the car
It cranks like its 16v
I am now a big believer in good wire, good grounds and good termination

I agree. After wiring all my own cars in the past I am also having mine done professionally. Never had issues but after seeing how clean, easy to service and add to my friends car is I'm going this route.

these are the key ingredients. ^^^^^^

...and good parts and components. Autozone is not the place to source your race car electrical parts.

Power Master told me to use a #4 gauge wire from my 100 amp. alternator to the battery and to make sure and use a #4 ground from the alternator ground connection to a threaded hole in the block to make sure the alternator is grounded properly I will do both this winter on my S/P race car