I am going through what i am going to due. Lost a flat tappet cam due to indy rocker failure. Heads are 360-1 springs are 939 comps 140 seat 415 over nose. pulled engine cleaned and put short black back together. I already have a new ft cam. First FT. I never lost what a huge PIA. Years ago had a bracket car duster 3250 446 B1BS heads car ran ran 9.70s in good air usually 9.90 with flat tappet Racer Brown. Switched to a roller cam picked up less than .05. cams were vary similar 272 @50 roller had over.100 more lift. I alwyas ran 150 seat 410 over nose is that to much spring.

I gotta check my notes but man 415 over the nose sounds high to me for a solid cam

I like the edm hole. I thought it would not stay clear due to its size, but every time I check it was clear.

Brad , I had the cam in my first 505 nitrided , block split then I went to build another . Pulled the cam to reuse , fark ! . Surface was heavily pitted . After talking to Mike Jones seems this is common . Nitride toughens the surface but can soften the under layer , so surface can collapse a bit like a sink hole . The lifters still looked like new .
New cam is not nitrided , got Howards edm lifters again .
I thought I was doing the right thing with nitriding but didn't work out . Could I go solid roller with a street profile ? Would make a bit more power , but just not sure I can get the street milage/usage . Especially the long highway driving . . Maybe use BAM lifters they seem to have a good name , Crower hipo ? Lot of $ to find out .

Tex

Ran those 928 springs on my 472 and 451 over the span of almost a decade using the same set of comp cam 821 tappets. Broke the cam in right using good break in oil for 30 minutes, always ran high ZDDP oils (Admax, Brad Penn, Rotella w/ STP addative), and never had an issue.

That said, I'll never go through the hassle of braking in a flat tappets cam again. I'd rather shell out the money for a mild hydraulic roller than go through that 30 minutes of anxiety again.

What oil did you use

Edited my post before I saw this...Admax for awhile, Rotella w/ STP addative, and then finally Brad Penn. Anything you find in a parts store is likely to be sub-par for what we need as it needs to work for the masses with catalytic converters.

It's getting close. I've run that high but you can't let the idle speed get too slow, you can't screw around getting it cold started it if sits for awhile and you have to be real careful about floating the valves.


I can't explain the last one...but I know from experience when the spring pressure gets over about 360 on the seat, that an over rev or banging the engine off the rev limiter it will tear the nose of the cam much quicker.

I pulled the inner spring setup at 1.900 155 and 345 at .600 is that enough to shift motor at 7100. i am gonna buy the lighters lifter and tool steel retainers. Any thoughts on beehives spring 75 to 90 gram lighter than conventional springs. I guess what i did is now a 936 spring. I want to drive the car alot on the road thanks for advice

I would like to use the beehives, I have the Trend H-13 solid f/t with the edm hole in the face and they weigh 69-Gr. +/- and trend p-rods. Pac tells me NOT to use the Beehives with solid f/ts and Comp says its ok.? My only reason is is the huge weight savings of the beehive and Ti retainers/locks. Oh yeah, I have used my Trend tool steel lifters on 2 different cam grinds and am going to use them again as they look good as new. Should a person be afraid to do away with the dual spring to go to the light wt.Bee's?

I have also used the Howards EDM lifters with good results. Before EDM lifters were available I had a tool that would cut a small groove in the lifter bore which increased the oiling to the lifter, that worked as well, just took some time to cut the grooves. Much quicker to use the EDM lifter after they came out. Anything much over .600 lift I use a roller lifter, due to the spring pressure needed on higher lift cams.

https://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/5007/10002/-1

I pushrod oil as well with flat tappet using EDM lifter and nitride cam. Just took everything apart and all is very well. No signs of wear anywhere. I plugger the oil galley in the heads so it wouldn't double oil. I read something on harmonics awhile back. They stated that the oil running thru the pushrod absorb's some harmonics.

Been doing a bunch of reading lately. Another David Vizard statement, flat tappet cams are on par with a roller til about 265*@50. I'm assuming similar lift.

Thank you what oil and spring pressures are you running

Listen to PAC. I don't get the love affair with beehive springs. Is isn't new technology. It's OEM stuff that's been made to sell to the hot rod market and they have very little value IMO. I refuse to use them unless there are zero alternatives.

Let the flaming begin.

Tim Banning at FHO has built over 50 hemis with them he is using Manley spring

if your running a stock OEM Mopar block you really don't need the EDM lifters due to the stock blocks having a bunch of lifter bore to lifter clearances, a bunch
Try priming a motor with the intake valley pan off the amount of oil leaking between the lifters and the lifter bores onto the cam is a bunch

I use the Comp EDM lifters which are not tool steel. My cam was nitrided and I broke it in on just the outer springs. My pressures are like 140 on seat about 350 open. Been running that setup in my 63 over 8 years since June 2011 and it still runs the same 10.70's and 10.80's. Ron

Ron, which lobe family did you use again? XX or XTQ?

I use the Amsoil Dominator series oil in a 20/50, but I think I can get away with a 10-40. Amsoil doesn't offer a 10-40 in a performance oil, so I may go back to the ole Brad Penn. Spring pressures are 135/430.