A friendly suggestion while you have it apart is to consider replacing the crankshaft with a forged 6.1 crank or aftermarket crank. The forged 6.4 crankshaft would also probably work, but I would double check. It would be a different stroke while the 6.1 is the same. The stock rods and pistons are the weakest part of the rotating assembly. If you can, I would replace the stock powered metal rods and fragile pistons with forged high quality components. Just my 2 cents.

Thought id post my build on here for others to see

Low mile 2014 5.7 Eagle from a JGC
Bought the engine in pieces
Torque plate honed
New cam bearings
New rings
New timing chain with updated guide
Heads decked and sand rolled valve seats into port with basic valve job
Apache valve springs
Inertia cam 209/216@ .050
784AD HC lifters
Std length .080 pushrods
6.4 intake manifold and injectors
Will be run by my own standalone system i built and will be self tuning with HP tuners

727 with CRT MRVB
4500 8" stall

9" 4.88 gears

All in a 3600lb Aussie A body charger

Hoping for under 11 99

Looking forward to seeing how it runs, but I'm curious why that Cam ? it's 556 lift and a 112 lsa ,, should be a good torque cam but with 4500 converter I would think you are giving up some potential .I can tell you from 1st hand experience the SRT NON-Mds cam is worth about 20 Hp over that Inertia VVT cam. Inertia's 212/222 Duration Camshaft (112 LSA) gives the SRT cam a run for it's money,
I swapped out my 392cam and now running their 224/232 @ 50 (.556 lift) in my 09 Ram now, picked up 15hp and 20Tq
similar combo except I have a518 OD trans (and A lot of Check engine lights now) and out weigh you by 1000lbs

I think inertia limits their cam Eagle Cam lifts to .556 because of P to V clearance, would love to see what the 224/232 @50 would do with .574/540 lift

I would spend $68 on a factory 6.4 cam and save the near $1000 on the aftermarket cam. You did say this is a budget build.

I picked up the cam used for a quarter of its new price with limiter and a few other pieces.
I asked Jay Greene about this cam vs a SRT NON-MDS cam (I have one on the shelf) and he said the inertia cam although smaller on paper will make more power.
I went with his advice as he's cammed dozens upon dozens of these 5.7's and tuned hundreds of cars

Its got a 6.4 intake manifold so it should carry the power into the rpm a little but the converter is almost brand new and left over from the last engine, i didnt want to spend to reset it but it should flash to
just past peak torque.

I recently saw one of those smaller than 392 "JG" cams installed and dyno'd in a 5.7 charger and it didn't make more power than a stock 392 cam fyi. Owner was kicking himself for not just going 392 cam....

I've seen a few of those JG Cams get their a$$ handed to them also.

Now that Comp's lowered their price on the VVT cams it'll be interesting to see what the market follows with.

I only had the advice of Jay to work with on whether the 209/216 Inertia/Crower would make more power than a non-MDS 6.4 SRT cam. Jay told me the inertia would make more power. He made $$0 from the advice so i took it as face value as genuine advice. Time will tell i guess

Ive seen quite a few people have terrible results with aftermarket cams but they basically all came.down to tuning. Most tuners seem to have no idea about VVT or Dodges nuaral network and simply switch both them off. A buddies cam swapped 300 picked up 65whp switching from 1 tuner to another with a 6.4 with a MMX nsr cam

I would spend $68 on a factory 6.4 cam and save the near $1000 on the aftermarket cam. You did say this is a budget build.