Yeh, but then you’d know what it makes for tq/hp, and what it “should” run, and be able to make informed decisions on how to proceed based on the results.

What’s the fun in that?

I only dyno my engine so I can make pretty graphs with the data that doesn't mean anything to me.

I'm too lazy for all of that. I could put it on a chassis dyno and find the best timing and peak torque. Just gonna tune it in the car. They want $700 for chassis tuning now. Last time I went it cost me $250. Everything has gone stupid expensive anymore. I will figure this out, it will just take a little longer. Thanks Andy

I think your right, but the car and the engine need a bit of attention IMO.

Your right Dwayne, I have seen a few engines make big power on a dyno, but not so impressive at the track. Oh, Buy the way Dwayne, I received my height mic today. Not sure how to read it thou. I may have these springs off in the next week or so.

If you have a set of dial calipers use it to find what the height mike reads

Thanks Cab. I sat down and took a couple minutes with it and I understand it now. The scale just looked a bit different from my micrometers. Seems easy enough to use. It's a proform. Not sure how accurate it is.

I've had a bench mounted 1000 Lb. valve spring tester for many years, I use a set of small inside calipers to measure the installed height of the outer spring seat and the retainer and then add the thickness of the retainer on the spring to set up the installed height of all my heads I do, I use valve springs shims to shoot for + or- 5Llbs on the seats and no more than 15 to 20 Lbs. difference on the open heights
I will swap the inner springs and dampeners, if they springs have them, around to get those results

Told you before when you were attacking me in other Victor cylinder head threads----These heads take serious work and ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) to get them to perform. You called me all kinds of unpleasantries. These heads suck in terms of bang vs buck--period. J.Rob

p.s. @ CCDave--I could describe in great detail what it would take to get your heads up to snuff but ........

You have the wrong guy, but with same problem. What works and does not work with these heads? I would like to know the details. PM me if ya want.

It’s easy enough...... just copy what Todd did with the motor that was running solidly in the 9’s........ with the very heads that are on your motor.

In my mind it’s simple........ your heads(not heads like your heads)have already proven they are capable of going way quicker than you have.
Whatever the problem is.........it isn’t the heads themselves.

I would sure think it would run the same if I copied what Todd did with that engine. More compression and a short roller, but I don't know what they had for duration. Maybe a more economical way to go would be a more aggressive lobe flat tappet .625-.650 lift on a 108 with the compression boost. It looks like i'll have the springs on there way to you next week. You tell me if the springs are good or bad and i'll decide what I will do from there. Thanks

I missed that this earlier. You had 11:1 compression in that combo and made 688hp with the 280* cam? Kinda blows my theory on mine needing more compression.

I’m pretty sure it was an off the shelf cam.
I don’t think it was top secret....... just ask Todd for the part number.

[/quote]
Told you before when you were attacking me in other Victor cylinder head threads----These heads take serious work and ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) to get them to perform. You called me all kinds of unpleasantries. These heads suck in terms of bang vs buck--period. J.Rob

p.s. @ CCDave--I could describe in great detail what it would take to get your heads up to snuff but ........ [/quote]

J.Rob- I for one would really be interested in what you have found to make these heads perform. With a long valve and offset rockers, I would think they have as much potential as 440-1's, and more potential than the Trick Flows (Trick Flows limited by standard offset rockers).

Brad and Dwayne clearly have the Victors working for them!

I’m pretty sure he had posted a pretty detailed thread on them several years ago when he was using them for his Enginemasters entry.

Careful searching would probably get you to the thread.

Thanks, Dwayne, I will search for that thread.

While you are doing that this winter, find the true top dead center (such as with a piston stop and hand turning) and mark it on the new cover (they can be off). I have had good luck with timing marks (+/- 1 deg) over the years; but others have had issues.

When building, I use a dial indicator on the piston (heads not installed) to verify TDC from crank key, damper, cover, etc.

Thanks Jim and yes, that is in my plan. I used a bridge and dial indicator to get that set when I built the engine. Once the cam was broke in I had to remove the cover because of an oil leak and guess what, The timing tab is a bolt on unit and had to be removed. I did my best getting TDC and tab back in proper place with heads on, but I never had 100% confidence in that. It will get fix with the factor cover.