My apologies it was installed -2 ill make the correction in the post

The short block was originally installed in a 3300 pound Ebody with 2.19 valve E heads that made 688 with the same camshaft.
Used a 727 with a brake with a 5000 10 inch vert ran consistent 10.10s with a 4150 1050 with the same cam. With the lighter car engine builder decided to retard the cam for the glide and the looser converter im guessing. Power range was 5000-6500 but when through at 7100. Standard port head was tapped out after 6500 with that particular combination.

I will attach the cam card

Thanks for that combo and your experience's with it. I'll surprised with the 5* timing differences with the changes, but with same 4.25 stroke and heads. I just called Comp Cams to get a better understanding of the cam I have in it. Dwayne says it has a mild lobe, Comp says its a 32.7 on a scale of 25-50 for intensity. They also tell me it has 4* ground in and should be dot to dot to have the proper advance set. I degree'd it to 105.5, but i'm pretty sure it was not dot to dot at the 105.5* setting. Maybe I have the cam 4* too far advanced? Don't know, but I will pull the cover and check it and get some springs off for checking as well. I thought it was odd i have .160 pv clearance on int. and .230 on ex. Not sure,but that could be an indication too far advanced.
Still playing with the carb. Dom told me to drill the pvcr's a little bigger .080" to help get up on the power quicker. I did this and it worked. Hits the vert hard and quicker blowing the tires off thru 1st and 2nd til I lift or shift. This is with the new M/T R radials that really stick. Tach goes right to 68-6900rpm and lays there til lift or shift. That was a good tweak. Still fat on top and expected with the bigger pvcr's, so will try a .029HS bleed and also square jetting today. No real data, just street tuning for now. Timing at 37* total now and engine does not skip a beat and never has.

From what i've seen most mopars like 38* timing the trickflow heads seem to like 34-36 degrees maybe because of the better combustion chamber. Also the pistons in our combo are domed with a 70. Head gasket so im guessing it wants more timing from the dome i also found it odd that it liked so much timing.

Our 1150 ultra we run 98 squared with 30hispeed. In good air under 2000 we go 28 and 99. Also run c114 vp. Runs good for what we need it for.

The cam spec i have posted worked really well at 11.1 maybe see what they think about that particular cam. It'a also from cammotion

So you’re within 1/2 a degree of 4deg advanced.

Do you not trust that you degreed it in properly?

Frankly, you’re calling everyone under the sun and getting tons of info, much of which is just erroneous.

Like the cam advance for example.
It makes absolutely zero difference whether there was 0, or 4*, or 50* advance ground into it.
You do what’s required to install it where you want it.

If it’s in at 105.5....... I doubt you’ll find any magic by moving it......... but, there is only one way to know.
And that’s to move it and see what happens.

If you bought a cam that had a 108lsa, and had 4* advance ground in it, and stick it in the motor, degreed it in and found it was in at 112.
You call the cam grinder and they tell you it should have come right in at 104.
So, do you leave it at 112 because the cam grinder(who is not working along side of you while you’re installing the cam) said it really should have come in at 104........or do you move it because it’s not at 104?

Do you think there is somehow a difference between the cam being in at 105.5 with the gears dot-to-dot vs the gears being advanced to the +4(or -6, or off a tooth, or any other way imaginable)and the cam being at 105.5?

105.5 is 105.5........ doesn’t make any difference how you got it there.

Yes, 105.5 is what I degree'd the cam to and that is where I would want it. I'm just saying the dots where not lined up with the cam being degree'd at 105.5 from what I remember and it wouldn't hurt to check. Maybe my math was off, who knows. Also, I want to install a factory cover with the timing scale mounted on it for more accurate timing settings. I don't like the one I have. So it's a win win.

Just do what you need to do to get confidence in your tune. Keeping careful notes and taking pictures as you go is the best method I know. When I degree a cam in on one of my engines I take a picture of the timing wheel when I'm finished. Then I can look back thru my pictures and see what it was. I don't trust my memory or my notes.

Good advise Andy . Wish I would have done that, but the chain cover is coming off regardless. If I don't bump the compression up to where I think it needs to be, then a smaller more aggressive cam change may be just the ticket for now. I'm thinking something like a 266/270@50 on 108 and same lift, but more aggressive lobe. something like a 27 or 28. First need to get the springs checked and go from there. It may take me a bit, but I will get this sorted out, I always do.
The square jet test went ok. Can't cruise it on the street, but it runs great at WOT. Cruises 11.5-12.5 fat. Wide open was 13.0-13.2 with the bigger .029" HS air bleed in the mix. I think that air bleed will work good in warmer summer weather. Thanks for the help guys.

Are you checking the cam timing off of the lifters or valve retainers with light checking springs like the motor will be ran with the rocker arms on it with the lash set cold for the aluminum heads?
I do the initial cam timing check on the lifters and do the final cam timing off of the intake lobe centers at the retainers with light checking springs and I always verify the exhaust lobe centers once I have the intake lobe set where I want it to make sure the cam is ground on the LSA the cam card says it is I've found more than one cam, from two different makers, that where not ground on the LSA the cam card called for One was ground on a 101 ILC when the card called for 104 ILC and the other was ground with 8 degree retard ground in it, that rascal wouldn't fall out of tree installed like that

Cab, I degree'd the cam with the heads off and used a tool that fits in the intake lifter bore and rides directly on the cam. I didn't double check the accuracy of the cam, but sounds like I should have. Now that the engine is fully assembled, I don't think the tool will fit in there, so this time I will have to measure off the lifters edge.

Unless your time & budget is unlimited, you need to approach it like you're in a class that requires the parts you have already to be legal, and the goal is to get it dialed in as best you can given those specific constraints.

The problem when I try this is that I keep changing classes on myself. &

Or, mock it up to read off the pushrod end. That might be an easier way to get an accurate reading w/ the heads still on (but the rockers off, obviously).

I'm with you. My class is constantly changing as well. I thought I was done with this go fast stuff, but its in my blood and has been since I was 14,well, maybe 7 is more like it. I know I told Dwayne I wanted a street/strip cam easy on parts when he spec'd this cam and that's what he gave me. I understand and my own fault. I thought I was all grown up now and didn't need to go real fast anymore. I was wrong. I now need to turn this program up a couple notches. I want to run 10 o's or near it, so what ever it takes within reason, more compression, a more aggressive cam lobe that will live on the street and a bunch more tuning.

Shouldnt be hard. I had a smallblock i drove everywhere with a roller did that had mild lobes Dwayne did cam on ran 9’s easily at almost identical weight.
Just gotta get the combo right. I know you will.

If I were to do compression and a roller I have no doubt it would go low 10's and maybe better with some work. Looks like a more aggressive flat tappet isn't worth much and a roller maybe 15hp and same for compression, but together it's a good boost.

The rpm is high ? Converter/trans issue ?
You are mid 125-127MPH? I am 130mph @ 6700 with 30"radial Flat tappet 272@050/600 nett lift . @ 3780lbs . 6000 converter shift @ 6500 (faster than 6300)
Last time out :
1.439
4.205
6.553 @ 104.17
Best sixty is in the 1.42s

Your numbers :
"1.45, 4.272, 6.626 . The vert may be a tad on the tight side, but if the engine made more power it would make up the difference and stall higher."


Tex

That's been my thought too. Leave the vert in for now. My best 1/4 was 10.40@129.75. What's your cubic inch. My gear is a 4.10 with a 28" tire. Gonna switch to a 3.73 late next year.

505ci@11.0:1 pump gas . 4.1 gear . If you are running a 28"radial rpm is about right , I went 10.25@129.65 right around 7000 with a 28x10.5 Pro bracket radial . That was turning off the line for a 1.45-46 sixty . Now have the 29.5x10.5 Pro BR , 28s didn't like the T brake at least not at that time .
Slower et = chassis setup or other ? . NOT HP . You are mph ok for 10.20s . What MPH do you gain in 2nd half of the 1/4 ? If you run 1/4 ?

The vert comment was yours I copied .
But when I foot braked the 505 with standard port heads , 4150 carb ,it went 10.50 , changed to smaller size vert , went from 5000 to 5800 , same et's . Fitted 4500 same et's more consistent , though didn't have much tuning till I split intake ports and the block .
I would be getting the car better before I spent more money .

Tex

I ran 105.2 in the 1/8 mile and 129.75 in the 1/4. I'm sure the car needs some tuning of its own as well. Double adjustable Vikings are on my list for the front. I have Calverts on the rear that were set on 5 and left at that setting. I will try tightening those up next time out.

Why not pull the engine over the winter and get it on a dyno? Then you'll know how much power it is making and what the torque curve looks like. If you are super ambitious you can even line up some parts for testing on the dyno. Intake manifolds and carbs are easy to swap. Ignition timing is easy to adjust, etc. A cam change on the dyno is a major thrash so you might not want to attempt that but you should still be able to learn a lot.

The mph you posted suggest that the times are 6.4xx in the 1/8 and 10.2-10.3 in the quarter .. work on chassis before spending money on new parts