Hi Dave, yes it is a Comp Cam that Dwayne had made for my EFI application.

Mark

I recently bought one of the dial indicators that goes into the lifter bore, super great tool. Just as a quick check, when the dots are together that is the overlap period on the camshaft. If you set the engine on true TDC with the dots together, simply look at the lifters and use a small straight edge, if the cam is in at heads up both lifters will be the same height, if it is advanced the intake lifter will be slightly higher, and if the cam is retarded the exhaust lifter will be higher. Not saying you don't need a degree wheel, but it is a quick visual check to see if you are in the ball park. I often use this when installing, gear drives, timing belts etc. Just to make sure everything is close. A couple times this has shown me gears with dots in the wrong place, and if you are reusing a timing chain, sometimes the markings are a little worn, especially on the bottom gears with multiple keyways.

That's good to know and a quick easy check. Thanks

It was my pleasure! It was fun!

the Jesel belt drive I bought and used in one of my wedge motors was off 2 degree, it was retarded according to there markings
I'm assuming you guys used the lifters for the cam timing, did you use the valve retainers to check the LSA and the intake lobe timing?
If so how did the LSA come out?

Yes - we used the lifter for the timing. We used the center-line method and did it at 0.050" and 0.010" and got exactly the same results. We did not verify LSA.

I've had more than one new cam be off on the LSA
Some of the new solid roller cams with different opening ramps on the one side with a different closing ramp on the other side can get you really confused when checking the LSA and ILC
I normally check the LSA at .200, .100 and at .050 before and after max lift at the retainers with light weight checking valve springs also, that really makes some of the cam grinders think I'm crazy That really helps on finding out what the true rocker arm ratio are also
They always fix their cams that don't check correctly though
One of my old drag racer mentors check every lobe at five degree increments on every engine he built, if all the lobes weren't identical he sent those cams back RIP Joe Alread

I guess we could have gone through the extra work, but I think that the new cam (115 LSA) will be close enough to be great for my Street car. Yes, it is a 605 Indy Aluminum Street Hemi that was 1,090HP on the engine dyno with the old Indy cam, and Dwayne stated that I would most likely lose 50HP on top, however if I lose 100hp, that would not be a very big deal. I had 4" of vacuum at Idle with the 110 LSA, and I am looking for 8-10" at idle. That should be much smoother at Idle at 900 rpm for my Frank Lupo 10" lockup converter driving a 4L80e transmission. I have the Holley Dominator MPFI system, and it really needs a smoother idle. We shall see later this week when I get everything buttoned up.


I will give an update later this week!!!.


Mark

Hemi motors are usually very sensitive to the LSA and ILC, you don't want any of the new intake flow going straight out the exhaust on the over lap, do you

OK, fired the 605 hemi today, and after retuning, the idle vacuum went from 4" with the old cam, to 13-15" with the new cam!

Will now idle in gear, and is very smooth for such a large engine...so I am happy. Now for the test drive!

Thank you to MarkZ, and all for some good advice.

Mark

Sounds like the new cam did what you were looking for.

You’ll have to report back after the test drive.

Hi Dwayne and all,

Here is a copy of my cam card specs...

Regards, Mark

260/268 on 115 should be very smooth in a 605 inch engine! Keep the cam card for the original cam in your file and if you decide down the road to shoot for some more top end power you'll know what the limit is. For street driving a smaller cam is usually a much better choice than a big cam. Especially if you are really street driving and not street racing.