lol, seriously? By 200 I assume you mean 200,000. My cut off is 100k miles for that kind of thing.
As for the job, can't answer that, never worked on any of the vehicles you have but typically replacing a loaded strut doesn't require any special tools or a press. Unless a torque wrench is a special tool. You will need alignment afterwards and you really ought to consider replacing the rears as well with that kind of mileage.
When you say loaded strut, I assume you mean shock and spring, right? I advise against that because aftermarket springs never have the same spring rate as factory. They might be higher rates, but more than likely they would be lower rates. 10cents worth.
Re: FWD bad strut bushing .... jsta replace ... ???
[Re: 71birdJ68]
#2706612 10/14/1908:47 AM10/14/1908:47 AM
At 200k miles his factory springs are wore out anyway.
Yes, I have changed out strut bushings. I have changed out struts. I have changed out springs. All together and each separately, but I have never used a loaded assembly because I usually do a performance upgrade and that is not available loaded. It will be easier and safer to just swap the assembly if you need struts and/or springs.
If you want a tutorial on how to do it, google is your friend. I have neither the time nor the inclination to write yet another basic how to on something that is amply covered in a myriad of sources starting with the FSM.
Re: FWD bad strut bushing .... jsta replace ... ???
[Re: dOc !]
#2706619 10/14/1909:07 AM10/14/1909:07 AM
What do you mean 'strut bushing'? On the vans, the strut bolts directly onto the knuckle. No bushing there. What we see regularly are noisy sway bar bushings with the occasional loose sway bar end link. And I have seen a strut bearing or two bad over the years. Loose sway bar bushings can make a very loud knock or clatter that sounds like the front end is about to drop out from under the van.
Doc, if you go the fully loaded route, don't buy Raybestos.
Back when I had my '93 Caravan, I swapped out the struts. In my case, one of the struts was blown. I went with the cheaper assembly because I knew the van wasn't going to be around another 20 yrs, and this was the result. One time fluke? I dunno. Rock Auto did take them back, but I ended up going with the more expensive ones as I didn't want to get burned twice and I needed the van up and running ASAP as this was when I was driving back East for my Dad.
The swap was easy, just needed an alignment check afterwards.
Not only did they sound horrendous, but, they made steering difficult too.
I would just change the sway bar bushings. They are cheap and fairly easy to change. If the end links are bad, the sockets will usually show play that you can see when loading and unloading. And again, if you decide to just change them, they are fairly cheap and easy to change. Although the nuts are usually difficult to remove. So I just cut them off. Quicker and easier than fighting the nuts.
I still don't know what you are referring to as a strut bushing. There is a 'bearing' at the top of the strut that allows it to turn, but the noise it usually makes when bad is well represented in the video posted above.
The problem with loaded struts is they come with new springs that may affect ride height. I do loaded struts if I do them in pairs and I am not worried about a slight height change.
Also it is not uncommon for the nut in the center to be loose right out of the box. Always check them.
Wew used loaded at the shop a lot.By the time you added struts bearinbg plate is what they are called plus the labor.Then if the rubbers are shot such as boots even more $$$.L:oaded typically ended up as cheap or cheaper.Never do singles use pairs.I even use loade at home on family cars etc.I typically buy Rock Auto as Monroes are cheaper from them than my son acn buy them at his store.Sway bay links etc some are cheap some a bit pricey.Get them from Rock also as they are cheaper than my sons price.Rocky
What DaveRS23 said! I've done numerous vans and Chrysler 200's chasing rattles. The strut upper bearing plate (which I assume you mean by bushing) will make noise. Lay your hand on the inner upper fender well and have someone jounce the veh. "Feel" for any noise. I had one Caravan you would swear the front end was falling out, and ended up being the stabilizer bar frame mount. VERY noisy! These repairs are actually pretty easy.
yep..sway bay end links and/or frame bushings. Something wants me to say there may have even been a bulletin published on the frame bushings, Try to inspect them with the weight on the wheels. If you pick it up and let the suspension hang it may feel like they're tight when they really are not. Co-worker's Caravan pounded like mad in the front when they were loose.
Re: FWD bad strut bushing .... jsta replace ... ???
[Re: Dcuda69]
#2708281 10/19/1909:57 AM10/19/1909:57 AM
if the sway bar end links are original, time for those to go as well as the inner pivot bushings. the end links are sort of hard to feel looseness at a stand still, as they are almost always in a sort of binding condition. get them off, and you can REALLY feel and see how bad they are. most new ones also have grease fittings to keep them lubed. i have used those as well as the sealed factory types, and both worked well. as said, the hardest part is getting the retaining nut off, especially if rusted. you can do it DoC. we got faith in ya !
Re: FWD bad strut bushing .... jsta replace ... ???
[Re: Dcuda69]
#2708300 10/19/1911:05 AM10/19/1911:05 AM
yep..sway bay end links and/or frame bushings. Something wants me to say there may have even been a bulletin published on the frame bushings, Try to inspect them with the weight on the wheels. If you pick it up and let the suspension hang it may feel like they're tight when they really are not. Co-worker's Caravan pounded like mad in the front when they were loose.
sway bar links USUALLY have a solid clicking noise when bad. sway bar to frame bushings usually have more a THUD noise when bad. hard to describe in type . but either one can usually be duplicated by - Open a door on one side ( sliding door is usually easier ) , grab the roof edge and rock the van side to side
On a Chrysler minivan there is no 'strut bushing' so to speak . lower end is solid mounted to the spindle,,,. upper end has 1 piece strut mount
either way at the miles quoted ALL are due for struts . I have had zero issues with Monroe loaded struts in just about every car Ive owned that takes them
Replace the whole thing, cheaper than piecing it out, and go thru rock auto, they're 1/2 the price of the local car parts store for the same thing. I have done lots of shocks struts and springs over the years, having been a front end alignment guy for so many years. (I'm not any more) and in my experience the best shocks and struts are the Gabriel ultra. Monroe's don't last, and kybs are too soft.