Roll cage mounted switches
#2706502
10/13/19 09:08 PM
10/13/19 09:08 PM
|
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,440 Martinsville, IN
cdwmotorsports
OP
pro stock
|
OP
pro stock
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,440
Martinsville, IN
|
What brands are you guys using? I have a quik-car dash mount panel but im now thinking I want them cage mounted instead. As much as I would love to have the speedwire stuff $1500 is out of my price range. So what else do you guys use?
eBay-cdwmotorsports
|
|
|
Re: Roll cage mounted switches
[Re: cdwmotorsports]
#2706513
10/13/19 09:25 PM
10/13/19 09:25 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,526 Fulton County, PA
CMcAllister
Mr. Helpful
|
Mr. Helpful
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,526
Fulton County, PA
|
Auto Rod Controls.
Not the flat face touch controls style. I've seen people have issues with them.
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
|
|
|
Re: Roll cage mounted switches
[Re: cl440]
#2706677
10/14/19 12:18 PM
10/14/19 12:18 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,360 Las Vegas
Al_Alguire
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,360
Las Vegas
|
My stuff is Speedwire and love it, the board and switch panel are top quality. I have used ARC in the past and they are nice as well. Also used the Digital dealy and K&R stuff, all worked fine for me.
"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."
"It's never wrong to do the right thing"
|
|
|
Re: Roll cage mounted switches
[Re: CMcAllister]
#2706690
10/14/19 12:55 PM
10/14/19 12:55 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,673 On the parachute mount
n20mstr
master
|
master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,673
On the parachute mount
|
Auto Rod Controls.
Not the flat face touch controls style. I've seen people have issues with them. the issue is the ribbon wire coming out, after tire shake....just make sure it cant come out ( tape, tie wrap etc.) IF you have a promod...lol actually in the pic above, that small bar with the two screws, that's the updated version that bar keeps the ribbon wire from coming out
Last edited by n20mstr; 10/14/19 12:56 PM.
....BAD A$$ STREET CAR.....
|
|
|
Re: Roll cage mounted switches
[Re: n20mstr]
#2706716
10/14/19 01:50 PM
10/14/19 01:50 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,159 PA.
pittsburghracer
"Little"John
|
"Little"John
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,159
PA.
|
I would rather spend money on go fast parts so I try to keep stuff like this budget minded. I have had Auto rod roll cage boxes in several of my cars with zero issues. I just picked up a couple of these boxes from Summit as I want to clean up some of my wiring over the winter. I also bought a Bee3-EZ wire labeling machine to mark everything nicer
1970 Duster Edelbrock headed 408 5.984@112.52 422 Indy headed small block 5.982@112.56 mph 9.42@138.27
Livin and lovin life one day at a time
|
|
|
Re: Roll cage mounted switches
[Re: pittsburghracer]
#2706945
10/15/19 10:39 AM
10/15/19 10:39 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,021 MN
JERICOGTX
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,021
MN
|
I would rather spend money on go fast parts so I try to keep stuff like this budget minded. I think I have maybe $200 into my entire wiring setup in my Road Runner. $1500??? Personally I'm not a fan of the overhead switch panels, if you have a decent place to install switches in the dash. Less wire, and cleaner looking IMO.
69 GTX
68 Road Runner
|
|
|
Re: Roll cage mounted switches
[Re: CMcAllister]
#2707257
10/16/19 12:06 PM
10/16/19 12:06 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,360 Las Vegas
Al_Alguire
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,360
Las Vegas
|
I have exactly ONE serial cable going to my cage mounted 10 switch panel. I have one board that is 7"x4.5" contains all the replaceable fuses and relays for my entire system that is set in vibration resistant epoxy. Yep it is not cheap but very clean, very simple and very reliable. Oh yeah it also comes with a built in LED "dome" light Nice looking stuff. My problem(s) with a system like that is - what happens if something fails? Nothing is immune to having a problem. I use good components sourced from a few places to build my systems, all of which are easy to replace at the track if they fail and it doesn't cost a ton to carry spares of everything. I also make the system so that it's able to changed or have stuff easily added as needed. Seems like things are always being changed on a race car. If you have a component fail you replace the offending piece, just as you would if a component failed. The fuses, relay and switches are just as easily replaced as anything you would use or replace if there was a failure. If you want to add circuits hopefully you are smart enough to take that into consideration when purchasing it and having a couple spare circuits. It is no different in functionality from any other relay panel and switch box out there, or from anything that anyone makes themselves, I've done that as well. The exception being systems like Racepaks smartwire and similar which is sealed. To each his own but there is nothing in a speedwire kit that is not easily fixed at the track with commonly available pieces from a good parts store, except maybe the serial cable which Best Buy would have. If you run a delay box and it fails what do you do? If your electric water pump fails what do you do? Parts fail on all cars if you are serious racer who travels you will carry spares for common components that seem failure prone and not repairable at the track. Your argument against speedwire stuff only holds water for those who run things like Racepak Smartwire and similar systems. They are closed/sealed systems and non repairable, so if you choose to run those systems you have to carry a spare, albeit $2000 spare. If you pop a relay in a smartwire system you have to wait and hope it resets, otherwise you are dead in the water as you cannot bypass it easily or replace/reset that circuit. I have seen three of those boxes fail this year at the track. One team carried a spare the other two had to next day air one in.
"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."
"It's never wrong to do the right thing"
|
|
|
Re: Roll cage mounted switches
[Re: Al_Alguire]
#2707387
10/16/19 08:24 PM
10/16/19 08:24 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,526 Fulton County, PA
CMcAllister
Mr. Helpful
|
Mr. Helpful
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,526
Fulton County, PA
|
[quote=CMcAllister][quote=Al_Alguire] If you have a component fail you replace the offending piece, just as you would if a component failed. The fuses, relay and switches are just as easily replaced as anything you would use or replace if there was a failure. If you want to add circuits hopefully you are smart enough to take that into consideration when purchasing it and having a couple spare circuits. It is no different in functionality from any other relay panel and switch box out there, or from anything that anyone makes themselves, I've done that as well. The exception being systems like Racepaks smartwire and similar which is sealed. To each his own but there is nothing in a speedwire kit that is not easily fixed at the track with commonly available pieces from a good parts store, except maybe the serial cable which Best Buy would have.
If you run a delay box and it fails what do you do? If your electric water pump fails what do you do? Parts fail on all cars if you are serious racer who travels you will carry spares for common components that seem failure prone and not repairable at the track. Your argument against speedwire stuff only holds water for those who run things like Racepak Smartwire and similar systems. They are closed/sealed systems and non repairable, so if you choose to run those systems you have to carry a spare, albeit $2000 spare. If you pop a relay in a smartwire system you have to wait and hope it resets, otherwise you are dead in the water as you cannot bypass it easily or replace/reset that circuit. I have seen three of those boxes fail this year at the track. One team carried a spare the other two had to next day air one in. I meant a component of the Speedwire System (relay, switch, etc). Perhaps I mistook the construction of their stuff as being a sealed unit with none of the parts easily replaced. I am a fan of everything in the car being plug and play, making it easily able to replace anything quickly. Relays, pumps, fans, ignition boxes, etc.
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
|
|
|
Re: Roll cage mounted switches
[Re: CMcAllister]
#2707406
10/16/19 09:26 PM
10/16/19 09:26 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257 gulfport, ms, west mi
rowin4
master
|
master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257
gulfport, ms, west mi
|
I have the Painless dragster mounted switches. Thin ,fused lighted switches. Works for me.
it's ok to butt heads, just don't do it with a butthead
|
|
|
Re: Roll cage mounted switches
[Re: CMcAllister]
#2707410
10/16/19 09:36 PM
10/16/19 09:36 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,360 Las Vegas
Al_Alguire
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,360
Las Vegas
|
[quote=Al_Alguire][quote=CMcAllister][quote=Al_Alguire]
I meant a component of the Speedwire System (relay, switch, etc). Perhaps I mistook the construction of their stuff as being a sealed unit with none of the parts easily replaced. I am a fan of everything in the car being plug and play, making it easily able to replace anything quickly. Relays, pumps, fans, ignition boxes, etc. My relays, fuses and switches are all replaceable just like any other relay/switch panel. I like how small and clean it is as well as LED's to tell me if there is an issue, red no power, green all is well yellow a problem with fuse or relay. There are systems that are 100% sealed out there and no thanks. I had a Smartwire from Racepak and once I saw there as nothing you can do if something happens in the lanes or during warm up except wait for a breaker to reset or replace the box I was out.
"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."
"It's never wrong to do the right thing"
|
|
|
|
|