Rings look good,grooves as well.
I ordered a kit with Teflon seals and a roller rear support.
Clutches? BALD
I will post some pics of them later

Okay, That must be a Turbo Action mod for the reverse pattern, just wondering about the looks of that wall.

Clutch pictures.
Rear shows some slip,but not failed

Looking at your valve body, you have the part throttle kickdown (PTK) module attached. It is a small casting piggy backed to the side of the valve body opposite side of the gear selector/manual valve. The Cheetah RMVB should not have that PTK attached. Look at the Turbo Action website under instructions and look for 17156 Upper Valve Body Assembly. You would need 3 short screws to delete the PTK module.

Of course check the Turbo Action model number on the valve body top plate 4 or 6 screws. Should be etched in: 17156-XXAAAA, XX is the year and AAAA is the serial # extension. If you don't have a 17156, verify the number on the website and/or call Paul Forte at TA.

Also, I would carefully check your clutch clearances upon reassembly. Direct clutches should be around 0.015" per friction disc. 4 clutches would need about 0.060" clearance and 5 would need 0.075". The forward clutches should be about 0.028" - 0.035" MAX total. I use the RAYBESTOS TAN waffle clutches in the direct and grayish RAYBESTOS clutches in the forward drum. No Kolene steels.

I would recommend a 2 spring front servo with a 4.2 band lever. Red solid backed kickdown band, not Kevlar. As mentioned before, double check your reaction shaft support sealing rings. Teflon are best. Also replace the drum bushing and check for wear in the drum sealing ring area. I would use 12 springs in the direct drum. Remove the accumulator spring if present and install a 1/2" diameter blocker rod with an approximate length of 2.95". Check to make sure the valve body will sit flush. If not, trim the blocker rod slightly until VB sits flush.

Set gear train and input shaft end play to the lower end specs. Also, Use a selective FLAT snap ring in both drums for setting clearance. Set the front band lever using an old over-running clutch roller (5/16" diameter) like setting mechanical rocker valve lash.


If you have any further questions, e-mail or PM. Glad to help.

John

OK thanks for the info.
I will look into all those issues.
That "PTK" cover.
I seen that it isn't in the PDF illustrations for my part number VB.
I can just make a flat blocking plate to take its place.

I bought this VB new in 1986 was in my Cuda until 2009 when I put a Jericho in that . Never had any failures in thousands of passes.
Not happy in this street application

Didn't know you used that VB in another trans. Since that is a manual shift body you have to block off the governor in the tailshaft. If you don't the trans will attempt to shift on it's own while you are trying to force shift it throughout the valve body, could cause problems.

Confused??
I thought the valve body did that by design?
I do plan on removing the governor now that its off anyway.
Is there something else that is required?

To remove the PTK, you simply remove the casting and use 3 short screws using the same steel cover plate. No need to make a new plate.

Also, no requirement to remove the governor weights. The Cheetah separator plate does not have a hole to feed the governor. I am using the Cheetah 17156 in two transmissions and still have the governor weights in place.


I would call Paul Forte at TA and get his recommendations on your set-up.

John

Uh, no. The manual VB has the automatic shift components removed.

As long as there are no cracks. The valves all move freely. The basic design of the turbo action VB doesnt burn up parts in my experience. My 9.0@3350# car is at 350 passes and counting on the same frictions and KD band. This isnt to say you can't make it better. But that's another deal.
Doug

My B&M reverse pattern, manual shift valve body purchased in the mid '70's required the governor to be blocked or removed. These newer ones might not need it.

Cope and T/A both told me to block mine so I did.
Also used the A&A billet stuff

I've never blocked them in nearly 30 years of trans building.
Doug