When the scrap guy should up at my shop, I saw some interesting takes on the factory windage tray. One had most of the guts removed and replaced with a HD mesh and the other had curved fins over a perforated base. Of all days not to have a cell phone. They were pretty mangled up and not worth much for testing. Anyone have any pics of their modified trays?

What tray??? Mine are all on my junk pile with the rest of the scrap.

All the fast SB racers I know on the west coast don't use a factory style windage tray, NHRA Sock or Super Stock racers
I'm sure there are some good ones out there but not the stock ones
How about using a crankshaft oil scraper

I'm in the middle of a 408 mildly! street driven stroker. I was gonna use the OE tray, it does have very minor to overcome fitment issues, should I toss it? I had heard they need the holes opened up some???

In my junk I use a Jeffrey tray (copy of the DC tray) and a scraper. Mr. Jeffrey told me he did not think the tray did much, but our little motors need all the help they can get.

I talked to Kevin (?) Johnson about the tray and he claimed his version of it was worth 17 horse, but would produce no proof.

I have run my motor with and without and never saw much difference. Our tray is just a lengthened copy of a small block tray.

I use a scraper on all my SB. I like the idea of having a barrier to separate the oil in the pan and the potential of being whipped up and aerated. I need to keep a stock depth oil pan and at 7K thru the traps exposes the oil to whipping. I have not found any evidence of this on the dipstick but believe that it exists and oil in the air not making it to the sump,pump and motor. Am I assuming too much?

I had a Milodon tray on my 408 and had to take it off. It rubbed in so many places during mock up I just pulled it off and left it out.

I would think the stock windage tray would be better than nothing at all, but on my 340 I'm running a scraper and a pan with a side kickout and screen (perforated metal) windage tray. But if I could only choose one of those elements, it would be the scraper.

The first question is "for what pan?".
Pan depth and shape determine what's needed. As Bill Jenkins said 45 years ago, the best oil pan is 6 feet deep.
As pan depth and volume increase, the need for control goes down.
Kevin Johnson is a very smart man, I haven't used his products but he makes some great comments on Speedtalk.

what brand do you recommend for a good scraper?

RR, make your own, start with some thin stiff cardboard like from a set of header gasket package and transfer the oil pan holes for the gasket off of the oil pan to it and trim away on the crankshaft from the end of the front counter balance to rear counter balance
I use .030 to .045 thick aluminum and or steel sheet metal to make mine, what ever I have in stock
I shoot for .030 to .060 clearances between it and the rotating parts

Cab that certainly sounds doable. Thank you.

Ishihara-Johnson for crank scrapers. Get the Teflon scraper. It runs at zero clearance. I used to make my own. His are much better. Like I said, zero clearance.

Stock depth A body SB pan as per rules

which size SB, 318,340 or 360 motor?
The reason I'm asking is some of the oil pans off of the Cardoba body motors are a little bigger(and make more power on the engine dyno) than the stock A body ones are

I've just spent at least 20 hours modifying my Milodon windage tray to fit inside my 410 (360+40) new stroker. Very disappointing. It clears the crank (Scat 4.00) without any problem, however, the H-beam rods ALL hit the tray. The louvers needed to be completely ground away, and the radius of the the rod's throw needed to be pounded and re-shaped into the tray. Also, the Milodon mounting 4 main studs needed to be cut shorter by about 7/16" each to clear the Milodon road race oil pan (they will hit the center of the oil pan).

Also, the windage tray needed further grinding to clear the Milodon oil pump pickup tube.

And... the Milodon road race oil pan needed extensive pounding at the oil pump area (Melling HV) as it wouldn't clear the oil pump at the pan's bottom corner radius... so to fit and align to the block and oil pan-to-block bolt holes. I also ground away the oil pump at the specific area of contact (using a Dremel tool). Spent at least another 10+ hours making the pan fit.

Overall, very disappointing with Milodon... their Tech Line phone discussion gave me no fear or cautions to install all of these products.... they should try it themselves.

2 projects Early A Dart and '80 F body. Both with 318's. I've heard that the Magnum 318 has a bigger oil pan but cannot confirm this.

I built my own from ~.030" steel on the 340, but bought the Ishihara-Johnson scraper (the Teflon inserted one) for my 440.

Magnum engines were never put in passenger cars, only trucks. However, there are some racers running a certain Magnum V-8 truck pan in their Stock class cars with various amounts of "tweaking", depending on the chassis.

There is an interesting Moroso info video(YT) about what they have for pans with 3 types of baffles and separate add- ons for your personal pan. They done a lot of oil pan baffle work for GM.