Re: Dual point distributor issues.
[Re: NITROUSN]
#2700595
09/24/19 08:53 PM
09/24/19 08:53 PM
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Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,495 nowhere
Sniper
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master
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nowhere
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OP doesn't mention what engine. 64 Chrysler FSM says 34-40 degrees for both, 27-32 individually, 413 engine 65 Plymouth FSM says 36-40 degrees for both, 27-31 individually, 273, 426W 69 Dodge FSM says 37-42 degrees for both, 27-32 individually, 340, 383, 428, 440 engine so it varies a touch depending on the year, but probably not enough to matter. I like to shoot for the center of the range and you really should have an FSM as it talks about how to set it and how to check for dwell variance. http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
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Re: Dual point distributor issues.
[Re: dragon slayer]
#2701799
09/28/19 06:16 PM
09/28/19 06:16 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,179 California
mickm
OP
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OP
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Ok, so wanted to say thanks to everyone as I've become more familiar with the dual point setup that I'm trying to install.
The original issue still exists, that with both points in use, the engine stumbles just above idle, to the point that it is not even drivable. As I mentioned, if I isolate EITHER set of points, it runs normally.
At this point I know the following:
1) The advance that exists in the distributor is not an issue. I merely backed the initial off so I have roughly the total that I want. 2) The dwell is not an issue. I have a dwell meter and it is set as it should be. 3) Although I have yet to test it, the condenser doesn't seem to be an issue, as I have tried two new ones with the same result. Also, I think I'm correct in saying that if the condenser was bad, it would act the same for a single set of points as with two sets.
Although, this does act very similar to what happens when a condenser goes bad. I will try to play with that next, but just wanted to post and see if anyone has any other ideas?
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Re: Dual point distributor issues.
[Re: TJP]
#2701850
09/28/19 09:23 PM
09/28/19 09:23 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,179 California
mickm
OP
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OP
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The original issue still exists, that with both points in use, the engine stumbles just above idle, to the point that it is not even drivable. As I mentioned, if I isolate EITHER set of points, it runs normally. I would question the integrity of your coil as blocking either set points changes the dwell and has a direct effect on the coils saturation time That appears to be the only variable IMO You got it! It was the coil! I have and MSD Blaster 2 in there. I wondered about it, but with it running ok on one set of points, I couldn't exactly see how that longer saturation time would affect this type of coil, that is designed to deliver more voltage anyway. Put a $19.99 O'Reilly coil in, and it works fine. BTW, the coil isn't bad. I put the old system back in place, and it runs normal. That coil just doesn't like the saturation time of a dual point system. I would like to understand why this is the case though, if anyone can explain the electronics...
Last edited by mickm; 09/28/19 09:24 PM.
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Re: Dual point distributor issues.
[Re: mickm]
#2701918
09/29/19 10:03 AM
09/29/19 10:03 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
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I certainly learned something on this today!
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Dual point distributor issues.
[Re: TJP]
#2702014
09/29/19 02:56 PM
09/29/19 02:56 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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yeah a coil can be OK cold but act up when warm but I woulda never thought a dwell AMOUNT issue
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Dual point distributor issues.
[Re: dragon slayer]
#2702296
09/30/19 03:27 PM
09/30/19 03:27 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,179 California
mickm
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OP
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California
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Interesting, but when you blocked one set of points which one was it and did you change timing? Or leave alone. For DP approaching firing a cylinder, Point Set A open first but nothing happens because set B is still closed. When B opens the coil fires and this is where timing was set. While B is still open A now closes and starts charging the Coil. Then B closes. Hence point B opens to fires the coil, and Point A closes to charges the coil. They share the load of switching the coil. If you blocked B and ran off the A point, you basically retarded timing. Since you started with 20, the motor may have liked that better. OF course this doesn't really explain why a new coil resolved everything, unless you had some intermittent issue.
On the other hand I guess it may be possible that the coil when charging got to point where it shorted and you lost your voltage charge when the dwell was higher, but doesn't do it with lower dwell. Maybe running on single point after sufficient time that coil would start acting up again. No, I did not change timing. The same thing happened when I blocked EITHER set of points. Yes, the timing does change with one set of points blocked, but not enough to cause the change, i.e. with both sets of points the car won't run above idle, and either set isolated it runs perfectly fine.
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