RPM switch set to close the bypass at somewhere above 2200 rpm, and a pressure valve plumbed from the pressure side to bleed off excess pressure back to the inlet side of the intake? The extra pressure sensitive bypass may be needed at some point in the rpm range to stay below your chosen boost level.

Thanks everyone for the advice- I will let you all know what I do and how it works.

Bumping an old thread - I have a Megasquirt Gold Box/EFI Source, anyone have an update on how that wires up and works out?

FYI, you only want the bypass closed at WOT or close to it. Otherwise you will have problems in the long run. Lots of guys burning them up because they think disabling the bypass is a good idea...

IIRC your motor is built a little better than stock correct? I think a Whipple, or Magnuson would be a more cost effective solution that would work with your EFI without any additions.

I'm investigating both options. The pre-eagle 5.7L i have is stock with the only modifications being an upgraded cam, opened ring gaps [for this very reason] and headers.

I figure a whipple would run about $5-6k, Hellcat setup is looking around $8500-$9000 if I were to sell the 5.7L off for a couple of bucks and add another 80-100whp I figure. The bragging rights that go along with owning a "Hellcat Cuda" is also appealing.

I have done several of these using the Holley Dominator ECU. I replaced the DBW bypass with a vacuum operated one that I got from Magnuson. Bolted right in.
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Rich,

Thank you for that information. I searched on their site. Do you have a part number handy?

Another option is www.SmoothBoost.com they have a plug and play controller that runs the hellcat valve regardless of what efi system your using

EFI source gold box will run the bypass without any extra stuff added on.

This is what I'm using on our Hellcat swap. Just got the car running but it will be awhile before it can be street tested. I have a Holley Dominator EFI