Guys,
Do you have experience with worn Lower Ball Joints?

I've searched threads here and looked through the FSM for some info how to diagnose a front suspension rubbing on my '67 Satellite. Didn't find a discussion or factory recommendation.

Here's what happens;
- On a left turn only, only on the Driver's side, only under braking or in a dip that compresses the front suspension a little - the wheel rim rubs against the edge of the Driver's (Left) Upper A-arm. The shiny, worn contact surfaces are clearly visible.

I'm thinking the upper wheel rim is being deflected towards the upper A-arm.. and hitting it ..because of looseness in either ball joint. In a RIGHT turn the top of the rim would be deflecting AWAY from the A-arm.

Can you check my thinking before I get into this deeper?

The problem has come on slowly, increasing with time - so a worn part is my first assumption.

- I ruled out the Upper Ball Joint: I replaced it and that didn't solve the prob.
- I checked for warped tire rim by swapping front to rear tires. Not that either.
- Closely inspected the A-arm upper bushings, they appear fine, no cracking or distress.
- Not sure how to check LCA bushing so leaving that for later.
- Strut bushings look OK, not cracks, not too crushed, nuts look tight and good.

I'm now suspecting the Lower Ball Joint
- What I *think* I see is the Lower Ball Joint boot stretching longer (as if the ball is lifting from the socket) when I unweight the front wheel, while jacking it up. BUT comparing this to the passenger side that's NOT rubbing, the Lower Ball Joint boot seems to behave the same, stretching a little when jacked up.

- Then I jacked it up by the LCA, to keep the suspension level, and I can almost get the area to rub when I weight down the front QP and push sideways turning the wheel to the left.. But I can only apply a little force compared to the car itself. I can't get the rub to happen, and don't see any parts of the suspension where the movement is coming from.

- I don't see "traditional" ball joint looseness like a little bit of wobble.

Am I overlooking anything?

Thanks,
- Art

Did you check the wheel bearings?

Is there play in the spindle and rotor/drum hub?

Jack the car up at the k-member. Take a long prybar and slide it under the front tire. Use a small fulcrum just outside the edge of the tire, and push down on the pry bar several times to take up the gap in the now hanging lower ball joint. If it's more than an 1/8 of an inch, it's worn. 1/4 " = replace it.

The last several Moog lower ball joints I tried, wore out in a few thousand miles or fell apart before I could install them. I've since been using XRF lower ball joints with great success.

http://xrfchassis.com/

I now grease my lower ball joints with the car jacked up, as it puts the grease between the ball and the inner cup that the ball rides on better.

Thanks Gentlemen,
Right - I've checked and repacked the front bearings during the investigation.
Double checked them, backed off and re-tweaked the spindle nut, the bearings are good, smooth and tight.

jbc,
Thanks for describing the jacking/prybar method to check the lower ball joint, I think I know what to do.
Your goal was to re-create that up/down movement in the ball joint, I'll give it a try in the morning.
I hope I find the answer there.
Cheers,
- Art

You want to "unload" the ball joint.
Jack the car up and place jack stands under the lower control arms as far outboard as you can without making contact with the tires.
Lower the car on to the jack stands.
Now use something like a 2x4 to pry up on the underside of the tire. If there is any play in the lower ball joint, you will easily see it.

Short story:
- I read the FSM over again and noticed it says if there is more than .050" of movement in the Lower Ball Joint to replace it. Well it def had more than that.
- So I replaced the LBJ (plus the outer tie rod end while I was in there) and that solved 95% of the problem. I'll take it in for new tires and an alignment and have them check it over good, check the rim for straightness.

Long story:
- The front suspension came apart without much trouble. I did not have to follow the FSM and pull the drum, hub spindle, etc.
- The whole job took less that 90 minutes. I chocked the rear wheels tight first, then used a small piston jack to lift just the LCA off the ground. Removed the wheel and unbolted the two 15/16" castle nuts at the LBJ casting. That let me swing the UCA and whole drum system out of the way and support on the jackstand.
- Then I got a box wrench over the 7/8" nut on the LBJ and put removal tool in there to pop the LBJ off the LCA.
- After that I pulled the 7/8" nut off the OTR end, and popped the outer tie rod end off with the same LBJ tool. I counted the number of turns it took (33) to unscrew the OTR end so alignment would not be far off when I screwed the new one back on the same.
- Pre-greased the new LBJ and OTR, and put it all back together.
- Took it for a drive and the rubbing noise gone in forward motion, but I can force it to happen in reverse. Still and huge improvement.

IMPORTANT NOTES: The new parts are not awesome. Always visually check what you are handed over the counter, or when they show up in the mail.
- But here's what's important: The threaded taper studs of both the LBJ and OTR are shorter than OEM so getting a cotter pin into the castle nut after torquing is impossible/difficult because the cotter pin hole is obstructed. Always check the part you are getting.
- In the package of OTR ends I had on the shelf, I didn't notice the first one grabbed had flattened threads on the stud, so the nut wouldn't screw down without spinning the stud. Poor quality control, I found another in the package that was fine. Again - always inspect the part you are getting carefully.
- I've had the spare LBJ and OTR ends on my shelf for so long I don't know where I originally bought them, the LBJ I think was from PST.

Cheers,
- Art

Here is a picture of the OTR ends.

In back is the old OEM one - with the proper length to the cotter pin hole.
In front is the new one that doesn't have enough distance to the hole for the cotter pin and flat-spotted threads.

- Art

i will certainly agree that OTR is "not awesome", as you said.