Re: premium or cheap drill bit needed
[Re: fourgearsavoy]
#2695336
09/07/19 10:55 PM
09/07/19 10:55 PM
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,603 Stuttgart, Arkansas
rickseeman
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,603
Stuttgart, Arkansas
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I like good drill bits, but in that application, you really aren't doing that much, I would probably buy the cheapest one I could find. You aren't drilling a hole you are enlarging it. And cast iron cuts like butter.
2011 Drag Pak Challenger
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Re: premium or cheap drill bit needed
[Re: RapidRobert]
#2695360
09/08/19 07:07 AM
09/08/19 07:07 AM
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Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 165 Sticky South
Rodenteliminator
member
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member
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 165
Sticky South
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Use the reamer at low speed and not a lot of pressure and pull it out often to let it clean, don't get in a hurry !
Sorry honey I spent the rent
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Re: premium or cheap drill bit needed
[Re: Rodenteliminator]
#2695368
09/08/19 08:46 AM
09/08/19 08:46 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 685 pennsylvania
poboyengineering
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 685
pennsylvania
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I was able to get aircraft bits (partial flute, long reach) at my local hardware store. They only carried 1/4 and 5/16" They required a lot of "pecking" to keep the chips from clogging the flutes. Cleveland twist drill carries the 9/32' that McCandless suggested in the MP engine book and they have fully fluted bits.Even with the full flute don't try to get it all in one stroke. https://www.cutting-tool-supply.com/ClevelandTwistDrill/Be sure to use the correct speed, it's a pretty splindly bit. The calculations work out at approx 1000 rpm.
It may be ugly, but it sure is slow.
Girls comb their hair in rear view mirrors and the boys try to look so hard....
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Re: premium or cheap drill bit needed
[Re: RapidRobert]
#2695409
09/08/19 11:06 AM
09/08/19 11:06 AM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,239 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,239
north of coder
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use a reamer only ! it won't grab and snap like a drill will. i don't know what size hole you have to start with, but a reamer is designed to only enlarge around .010 [ten thousandths] above the drilled hole size. you will more than likely, have to buy a couple of them to arrive at your desired hole size. use plenty of lube, relieve the hole often to clear the chips, and take your time. reamers come in extended reach in virtually all sizes, so you don't need to settle for a shorty. try mcmaster-carr for your needs, or possibly the bag. the only thing to watch for before you start, use something like a coat hanger or welding rod, and run through the hole to make sure there is nothing obstructing the hole. i have see all kinds of "stuff" [especially in cast holes] hiding in long holes that still allowed the hole to function as designed, although not at 100%, such as chunks of broken tooling and casting boogers. both of which can shatter quality tooling upon contact. you shouldn't find anything, but you never know.
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Re: premium or cheap drill bit needed
[Re: RapidRobert]
#2695416
09/08/19 11:20 AM
09/08/19 11:20 AM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,544 Syracuse,NY
CompWedgeEngines
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,544
Syracuse,NY
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Use a reamer as mentioned. A 6” chucking reamer will barely break thru, but it will work fine. Just chuck it at the end of the chuck mostly. Also, use an air drill. It gives you better control, and is less torquey than electric or even a cordless. You’ll also appreciate the smaller drill, when you team #5.You can also help by just chamfering the edge of the hole, either with a file or bit to help reamer engagement. Ream with steady pressure. Don’t horse it, but keep it steady, and keep pulling the reamer back to clean the flutes. You don’t need lube, the cast iron doesn’t need it. When done, put a 1/2” cartridge roll on an extended shank, and go in and touch all the inside of the galleys. Reaming WILL leave little shards of metal, and you must clean them off.
RIP Monte Smith
Your work is a reflection of yourself, autograph it with quality.
WD for Diamond Pistons,Sidewinder cylinder heads, Wiseco, K1 rods and cranks,BAM lifters, Morel lifters, Molnar Technologies, Harland Sharp, Pro Gear, Cometic, King Engine Bearings and many others.
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Re: premium or cheap drill bit needed
[Re: Rodenteliminator]
#2695423
09/08/19 11:33 AM
09/08/19 11:33 AM
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Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 131 Conroe , Texas
iapco103
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member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 131
Conroe , Texas
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Use the reamer at low speed and not a lot of pressure and pull it out often to let it clean, don't get in a hurry ! This! When you clean the reamer , DO NOT use a rag in your bare hand, the reamer will slice through it like it is not even there. Ask me how I know, DOH! use a stiff bristle brush to clear the chips. Paul
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Re: premium or cheap drill bit needed
[Re: iapco103]
#2695466
09/08/19 01:55 PM
09/08/19 01:55 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,116 PA.
pittsburghracer
"Little"John
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"Little"John
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,116
PA.
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Sometimes I think guys overthink some of these jobs. I will be grabbing my long drill bit out of my engine building box and doing two blocks this week. Like I’ve done many times before. Spray drill, spray drill, repeat. Job done.
1970 Duster Edelbrock headed 408 5.984@112.52 422 Indy headed small block 5.982@112.56 mph 9.42@138.27
Livin and lovin life one day at a time
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Re: premium or cheap drill bit needed
[Re: pittsburghracer]
#2695605
09/08/19 10:14 PM
09/08/19 10:14 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,828 Ontario, Canada
Stanton
Don't question me!
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Don't question me!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,828
Ontario, Canada
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When it comes to buying an extra long bit like the one required to do the job, you're not going to have much choice between "cheap" or "premium". FWIW, the one I bought back in 1974 has served me well and is still in fine shape to do many more blocks. But I should note that I have never used that bit for anything else.
Last edited by Stanton; 09/08/19 10:16 PM.
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Re: premium or cheap drill bit needed
[Re: CompWedgeEngines]
#2695612
09/08/19 10:41 PM
09/08/19 10:41 PM
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399 Aurora, Colorado
451Mopar
master
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master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,399
Aurora, Colorado
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The 6" reamer works fine on the #1 through #4 mains, but the drill chuck gets in the way of the block at the rear seal retainer area, so that is where a drill bit extension comes in handy to clear the block wall at the #5 main. If you are a decent welder, you can also weld a rod to the reamer to make it longer and not have to spend $50+ on an extended length reamer.
Drilling works too, done it several times and only broke one drill bit, but after using the reamer, it just seems to do the job easier and quicker, with a cleaner finish, less burrs and such where it breaks through, and smoother walls inside the reamed hole.
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