I am making a complete new set of brake lines for my A100 due to installing the Scarebird kit. I purchased some S.U.R.&R. BR-EZ100 Brake Line tubing which is quite easy to bend, but I have not been able to find a decent flaring kit that works. Granted, they were all made in China. Can someone recommend a good kit?

Mastercool 71475. Not cheap.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=schuHl6OC3w&t=328s

Combine it with a lapping tool and you're leak free.

https://koultools.com/product/flare-lapping-tool/

Yup as a fleet mechanic I find myself having to make alot of brake lines, finally got one of those master cool hydro tools, I like it, look around prices vary widely, look at some of the online tool sellers, eBay and Amazon, don't be in a hurry to get the 1st one you see, you'll save some cash. I've found some specialty tools on eBay and CL that were used like once and the seller either got out of the business or died and you get lucky and get it cheap.

I've used the old hand double flare tools for years,
Sometimes those fit into a tight space a bit easier than the Master cool one.

Thanks guys

When I made all new lines for my '55 Plymouth, I bought the on-car tool from Eastwood and was very pleased with it.

Funny, I just ordered that about 30 minutes ago. This may well be my final brake line job, so I don’t want to spend more than I need. I just need a quality tool for the job.

I have a Blue Point set I bought from SnapOn.Used it for over 30 years at work and home.My son bought a set from sumit that was clearanced like 15 years ago.It works great also.Rocky

My buddy is an experienced aircraft mechanic. He states it is vital to lap and polish freshly made flares to remove any stress risers that can lead to splitting at the flare. I rarely do this, and have not seen any of my flares split. He either apparently has or its an industry standard training protocol.

I do tighten and loosen the jam nuts half a dozen times to better seat them. They tend to get tighter and turn in farther until the 3rd or 4th tightening cycle..

I'm a non-practicing A&P, and concur with your buddy. For aviation applications. Aircraft endure far more sustained cyclical vibration, particularly prop driven piston engine aircraft. Risers will turn into cracks in no time, anywhere (ever wonder why jet liners have rounded window corners as opposed to 90*). In my decade as a general aviation mechanic, I saw my share of brake lines with cracked flares having been properly lapped. I was trained to, harangued and nagged to and so just always did it. If there are any imperfections in the flare, they may last 10 years on the calendar, but probably less than 100hrs in the air.

I wonder how many of those were caused by over-tightening. I can count on one finger the number of techs I've seen (including me) who use a torque wrench on flare nuts.

most don't even have the right tool to torque a flare nut

Over torqueing? Possibly a great many. AN fittings are all over the place on aircraft though, and once you've jacked one up, you usually don't do it again. You get the feel for it. The hangars I worked in usually had a set of line wrench crows feet for torqueing fittings, but just like a car, or even more so in a little airframe, you aint getting a torque wrench on a large percentage of the line fittings. A lot of (most even) times too, you're working with aluminum tubing (not on brakes) for hard lines, fuel, hydraulic, pito/static, even high pressure air on turbine aircraft. I would never put an un-lapped aluminum flared solid line on anything.

Basically, if you're an Ug-wrench, you won't last long working on aircraft. Most everything is aluminum and you'll only spend so much time fixing stripped and broken off stuff before the boss taps you on the shoulder and you're cleaning spark plugs and moving airplanes around.

Steel or Stainless steel, flats from finger tight is more than acceptable for assembling flared fittings.

Red

The Eastwood tool worked great!

Eastwood on car flaring tool is inexpensive and works great. I have hanging on the wall that tool and a 20 foot roll of break line and a package of fittings. I also have the Eastwood tight space ratcheting break line tubing cutter. Again- inexpensive and works wonderfully.

I had purchased a traditional flaring set, which worked fine, but decided to try the Eastwood. I never looked back.

I have a part # for the style we use. It's way better than the snap on we have. I've used several different ones and this is by far the best. Pistol Grip Hydraulic Flaring Tool Kit - Part# SRR PFT409

Those look nice. I used the K-Tool international KTI70081, same as Eastwood Professional. It makes nice flares, but needs to be vice mounted. For a few bucks more the mastercool listed is much more portable.

I'll have to look at those lapping tools. I have two of the stainless brake lines that don't want to seal well, and there were the pre-made lines from Right Stuff. The lines I made sealed just fine.