Picked up a 68' 440/727 a couple weeks ago and wanted to switch it out with the 77' 440/727 in my road runner. Come to find out there's some pitting in a cylinder and very light etching in another. This was supposed to be a running setup (If you see anything for sale in Warrensburg mo, check it over good) but isn't. I'm at a point that I believe I have a couple ways to go about this. First, have that cylinder sleeved and hone the rest or, pull the guts out of the 68' and put them in the 77'. This was supposed to be a budget build so I'd rather not overbore and spend another 500$ on pistons. I haven't had it to a shop yet but I'm guessing I'd be in cheaper with putting everything in the 77' rather than the sleeve and new rings in the 68'.

Don't think of it as pitting, it's "oil reservoirs". If you're not looking for maximum performance, run it.

That pit looks suspicious to me. I would be pressure testing that block. The cylinder wear indicates water. Not that I don't advocate using a good short block on the cheap.

I know guys that would run that without even thinking about it.

I've seen the same thing on one of my old M.W. stocker motors that was store inside my shop in the dry Mojave desert, never sat outside at night unless it was at a race on one of my old car hauler trucks.
Condensation sneaks into the cylinders with the exhaust valves open, especially as it cools down over night after being run and warmed up or hot

Don't think of it as pitting, it's "oil reservoirs". If you're not looking for maximum performance, run it.

You don’t think it will smoke like a freight train?


I know guys that would run that without even thinking about it.

ya’ll are talking me into it

Some go, and some blow. Only one way to find out.

True.

I remember a time frame many years ago I would have been thrilled to see a block that "clean"!
Personally, I would pull it apart, hone it out, throw some new rings on the pistons and run it. Old Mopar blocks were tough stuff. Gene

I’m going to get it torn down and cleaned. Get a basic rebuild kit for the bottom end, some heads from marsh or used aluminum if I can find some, and figure out a cam. I have a torker 2 or 2806178 intake, couple carbs to pick from, msd rtr distributor and all the accessories from the 77’.

Should make the car a little more fun.

There are very few 50 year old engines that do not deserve a fresh wall and new pistons.

You could also smear a little JB Weld in there and hone it,don't they say it's good for about anything ! hmm

If you are on a budget build I am assuming you aren't trying to squeeze every last HP out of it. If you find no other problems with the pistons/rods, the real question is, "how much taper do you have?". If you have minimum taper (<0.005") I'd break the glaze, rering it and run it.

Agree,
I would hone and then see what it looks like.
most likely it will run fine...
It's not a substitute for re-boring the cylinder oversize and new pistons tho..