Anyone had this ?
I have my new World block 505ci in and running . But it does run warmer than my factory 440 and 505 . Maybe 15-20F .
Cooling system has never been an issue . I just swapped in a 2nd waterpump to which I welded a anti cavitation plate , I did have a 440 source pump in when I ftted motor .
Just the thicker block ?
Its not a worry at the moment but noticeable .

Tex

I have a World block. 540", 180* thermostat, OE style radiator, and OE style water pump with clutch fan. Cools just fine. But boy, is it heavy.

If this motor is running 15* to 20* warmer than your old 440 and is not a worry, how cool did your 440 run?

A little more info will get you more input.

Yes they do......

Why? Less water circulation? Bad distribution planning? Smaller jacket x-section near the deck? Any chance that it needs a different head gasket (have they changed the gasket since your purchase)? Chevy changed the head-to-block water flow many times between 1937-63 on the L6.
If this turns out to be an issue, I'd consider external water to the rear core plugs like Chrysler did to the Cummins.

Dave ,
I have not run a tstat for years . Old motors ran cooler without plus not keen to get stuck in the lanes with cold motor and closed tstat .
As to old temps . Would normally run 155-175 on cool days and running down freeway . Once in middle of winter ran highway for 11 hours never got to over 130 , it was 0 celcius and lower most of that . Yes in traffic would slowly creep up , fans kept it under 210ish even in 40deg C (100F)
Now heats up quicker and runs about 185-190 on freeway . We are in winter here now so have not had real hot days yet .
Dragula , thanks . If I remember you have similar issues ?
I have the Mopar performance 5 blade clutch fan and a 12"manual control pusher fan , factory shroud on cross flow AFCO radiator .

Tex

Siamese bores, super thick deck....

Try some Water Wetter from Red Line Oil

thanks Dragula - I was leaning that way but wanted others experience
Fastmop , already got it . Always use it .
Oh well looks like wait and see . May have to go to Aus Falcon factory twin fan set up , I know they always work

Tex

At speed, a pusher fan serves mostly to block airflow through a radiator.
But yeah, by definition siamese bores don't allow a full-perimeter water jacket, so your existing system is cooling a hotter block.
FWIW, water is better at cooling than anti-freeze is, so if the thing never sees freezing temps, you can reduce the % of anti-freeze.
10%-25% cools better.

Well, I have had 9 engines in my car over the years, and this latest World Iron block is tough to keep cool...I have a very good cooling system.....Yet it seems on a hot day, I can't keep it from getting to 215....I have the engine out right now to put new valve springs in it, and its for sale, but if it goes back in, I am going to put in a newer style 4000cfm fans...I am right on the edge. It will cool down on a long cruise, but not in traffic once it hits 200....

Topside , fan never been an issue before . I don't run antifreeze , definitely no freezing here
Dragula ,

[img]https://www.autopartssupply.com.au/ford-au-falcon-radiator-thermo-fan-twin-fans-suit[/img]

Now days I try to use OE styled fans because they are designed better and have to last a long warranty .

Tex

no one said what fuel you are using,if your running race gas switch to e-85 or alky,mine is running 200 when I get on the return road at a 1/8 mile track,with a good cooling system,so im switching to e-85,if its your street machine,might want to pull timing,i know it hurt performance

Did you check the block before assembly?

Check those threads:

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthread...ead-gasket-on-backwards.html#Post2106702
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthread...emi-block-totally-sucks.html#Post1309938

69b1 , purely 98 pump gas
Will not go E fuel
Mike , those both seem to be hemi specific . I have a wedge
Doesnt go mad , just warmer
Thanks to everyone ,

Tex

Yeah its just a slow warm up, but once it gets there, its really tough to bring it back down. Takes mine a good 45 minutes or more of driving before it gets there, but its a lot of iron to cool down....once it is. I do run either water wetter or Antifreeze depending on the time of year. And if its cool outside, its not an issue...So I am right on the edge with my setup. Any improvement should show up immediately.

At the drags, Its actually difficult to get it to full temp. I actually only use one fan to save on battery power, and it never gets past 180....

thanks Dragula .
will see how it goes into spring/summer .
Maybe I should have gone 4.41 or 4.5 bore to thin it down

Tex

Tex or anyone,

Any noticeable change in oil temperature (if it is being monitored)?

[quote=ZIPPY]Tex or anyone,

Any noticeable change in oil temperature (if it is being monitored)?


Zippy , I do not run a oil temp gauge . I only monitor it off oil pressure , as motor warms up . Does not seem more than 5 psi variation hot or cold , idle and above 3500 . Between these it is down a little but still running 40psi . But that may be the constant top end oiling , even with the World restrictors fitted . And I swapped mechanical gauges , and used braided -4 line , just before fitting the World . Old 440 IIRC read similar . I do run the large Milodon road/race pan . Currently Brad Penn 20/50 , will go to Royal Purple 20/50 in a couple of months . That is what I ran in the old motors .

Tex