I am having trouble keeping the #7 plug wire on.
It is a 1969 B Body with power disk brakes so booster very close to #7 and has the flexible tube on the plug wire.
They are stock replacement wires. There is no firm engagement of the plug wire on the plug and obviously not much room to work with.
Anyone have any tips or tricks to get the plug wire to engage and stay on?

Thanks in advance!

Slide the tube up off the spark plug end of the plug wire so you can recrimp the brass spark plug tip on that wire so it will snap on and stay on the spark plug
I do that all the time on race motors of all types, not just Hemi motors, where we have the plugs out a bunch while getting the tune up correct.
I use a regular pair of pliers and look inside the plug boot to see where the open part of the tip terminal is and then gently crimp it closed though the spark plug boot, don't tear or cut the boot
Good luck, let us know how that works for you

Thanks for the response.
Are the "tube caps" that seat on the valve cover bonded to the plug wire or are they able to be slid up and down on the plug wire?
I thought of what you suggested but I didn't want to mess up the plug wire by trying to slide the plug wire out.

A little Wd40 will allow you to slide the covers.

I also Thank You. I am having same problem with my 1st Gen 392 on the #1 plug.

They are not bonded to anything.

#7 is trouble regardless of the body style, and a booster/master makes life miserable getting the wire in/out, what I've done in the past is use the rigid plastic push/tower wire tube on #7, but remove it and cut it into 3/4" segments, stack it back on the wire, this allows you to feed the wire in/out of the valve cover tube by the master, and once in the valve cover tube it allows the stacked hard wire tower/tube segments to give you the rigidity to push the wire/segmented hard wire tube down to clip the plugs top terminal

I've had mine come off and not even be able to even push it back on hot. The tube would have a little bit of oil in it and it would swell the rubber and seal it tight in the tube creating pressure when hot and it would turn into a syringe pushing it off. Didn't matter how tight it was on the plug. Had to let it cool off and use a rag with a long screwdriver to get oil cleaned out of tube. Darn hemorrhoid's! Lol Dayclona's trick seems like a good idea. For those of you new to hemi wires #7 is the only one that doesn't have a plastic extension and is rubber to be able to bend it past the master cylinder.

Thanks for all of the responses!
I will definitely give Dayclonas idea a try.
Now to find a single rigid insulator without having to buy a complete set of wires.
Please IM me if anyone has an extra they are willing to sell.

I took Dayclona's suggestion and sliced up one of the rigid insulators with a hacksaw and installed it on the #7 plug wire.
Worked great!!
I was able to get the modified plug wire into the tube and onto the spark plug.

Thanks again for all of the responses.

Glad to hear that worked out for you!

Mike

what always concerned me about that wire was, when you remove it, you are pulling on the wire instead of the boot plastic, correct ?
wouldn't that be hard on the wire ?
could a guy fab up a "puller" that would/could slide down the side of the tube and grab the boot/connector at the plug ?

With the rubber caps on all the wires you're still basically pulling on the plug wire. You can't get ahold of the plastic tube and the dust boot is just slid on and not really attached to the tube. Best you can do is try and pinch hard where the wire comes out of the boot.

i understand now. thank you !
i do not have a 426, i was thinking they were like a 392 [of which i have two] except without the wire covers on the valve covers.
i thought the valve cover boots slid back and you grabbed the plastic plug wire ends. the 392 wire ends are a kind of ceramic. [the factory wires]
thanks again for straightening me out.

You could slide the boots off if needed but you'd have to at least hit them with silicone spray to get them to move on the wire, which I had to do when I made this set and then turn around and have to pull tight on the wire just to get them back seated on the plastic plug. Lol They're a lot of hemi's now with the tall plastic without boots.

I recently bought a couple sets of Taylor wires, and I thought it was interesting that...it looked like they used some sort of glue/adhesive to bond
the hard plastic tower to the wire.

I haven't checked super closely with a flashlight or probe yet, but if they also glued the boot to the plastic tower piece, then that + maybe a little
dielectric grease on the dust boots would help reduce some of the pulling on the wire during service.

my wife's car is a 94 concorde with the 3.5 mitsubishi engine. it has the "hemi" type plug setup.
the factory wires have a plug connection that has a boot at the top with a place to grab on to with your fingers.
when pulled out, it is about three inches long or so, and has a solid connection with the top boot.
sounds kind of like your taylor wire set[s].