I have swapped the leads on the pickups in 2 distributers and it does change the timing when swapped but I end up with it right back at 50 degrees to run either way. It does start better the correct way with both distributors and both ignitions. But maybe I'll get a pick up coil for the msd and put it on the list. Along with a leak down test.

The carb is a brand new aluminum hp. With 4 corner idle, replaceable air bleeds etc.. The part # is 82851sa.

How much vacuum does it pull if any?

I swapped cam in a 318 pick up 35+ years ago that acted like this.
Turned out to be intake gaskets. Rebuilt the whole truck before I touched the right part.
It will end up being something simple and obvious. .......those are the hardest things to find LOL

Unfortunately....... not really the “right” carb.

It’s a “street” HP.

Does it have an easily adjustable secondary idle speed screw?

What size are the idle air bleeds?

How far out have you tried turning the mixture screws?

I’d also see what the idle vacuum is(my 383 with the 256-106 cam was around 6” in neutral @1200).
Also, 1000 in neutral is probably too low unless it’s a manual trans.

Do the leak down test before you go much farther.

I still feel like the 140psi is a big clue.

Ok..sorry for the delay. I have a 5.7 swap into a ramcharger that ate up most of my night but had the car warmed up and dropped into gear with help so I could get a vacuum number.

All the advise about swapping the dist. leads. Thank you...it does make a difference but still wants 50.

More carb info..

The secondary set screw is facing down. I can get to it with a 90 degree screwdriver.

Air bleeds are 24 and 70. I have dont the follow with them.
1, removed them completely, no difference.
2 plugged them with wire, also ...no difference.

Right now..after drilling blades and setting transfer slots on secondaries I have 1400 rpm in neutral and 9 hgs of vacuum, in gear warm I have 1000 rpm and 6 hgs vacuum.

The idle screws actually do respond now and I am about a turn out. (The air bleeds still do not respond)

One unfortunate new happening since drilling blades is it will not start without a few squirts. It used to re fire hot no problem, now I have to saturate it to get it lit.

So on the way here for the weekend are

A pickup coil for the msd
Another intake gasket set
And trying to find a leak down tester

Anyone want to walk me through a leak down check? Never done one..dont know what I'm looking for and dont realky trust everyone on you tube that has a camera

I am thinking of having the intake cut a bit to help it nest better.

Also wondering ..if my leak down proves my rings are healthy ...what can I cut off these heads to help get the compression up? I really am in the hole as with everything i bought already..i really cant spring for new heads this year. I'd like to get this thing out this summer.

I used to do driveability on Honda automobiles, back when much of what came in the shop was carbureted. Much of my diagnoses were for lean running @ idle & cruise. This was my 'bread and butter'.

We put a fitting in the end of a garden hose, that took a small ball valve and a couple feet of quarter inch hose off the end of it.

When opened, you could get a nice stream about the diameter of a number 2 pencil. This would find intake leaks that wouldn't show up with other methods, such as brake clean, or propane. Or that high $$$ Snap-On smoke generator (mostly smoked the boss' wallet...).

Pinpointing the area of the leak was really important on these cars, because they would have 100 vacuum fitting joints (literally) under the hood.

If there was a leak, other methods might find it, but water would.

Edit: in the original post... The car runs hot at idle. IME, heat can be caused by timing, and can also be caused by lean mixture (and also by a mechanical considerations...). I suspect Dwayne's question about where the idle mixture screws end up to make the car run is probably right on the mark.

In my world, people very rarely made adjustments to their cars, they just took them to the shop when they didn't run right. So, if they had an air leak, it would usually show up by feeding propane into the intake air 2 offset the lean condition.

But, if the idle mixture has been adjusted to compensate, that test would not necessarily do anything.

FWIW, I would try putting water over that intake before removing it. It's a far cheaper and easier test to run then removing the manifold, taking it to the machine shop, putting it back on... And if there's anything I like better than something cheap, it's something easy.

So, 9” @1400, in neutral.......@50* timing.

Imo, you should put the timing at a more “normal” place(like38*), redo the vac test, and reset the mixture screws.

The goal is to make it run right with normal timing....... not 50*.

With less timing(and theoretically less vacuum), I’d expect to have to richen up the mixture screws.

QFT sells a secondary throttle lever that has a screw on top so you can tweak the secondary blade position with the motor running.

It just replaces the original one....... takes about a minute to install.

I’d buy a package of really small Holley air bleeds...... that way they can be drilled to anything you want.

The 24 hsab should be fine, but the 70 iab is on the big side for that combo.
I’d start out with something like a 60.

Actually...... I think I’d be getting out the garden hose before I went any farther.

Garden hose it is ! I'll let you know tonight hopefully if the kids keep themselves occupied. Also..it will not run at 38..it will barely run at 45..at 40 it is immediate radiator cap blow and it needs 30 percent throttle to keep it running.

How do I upload a video here ? Is that even possible?

Sounds like it’s way more than a carb tuning issue if it won’t even run at 40* and immediately overheats.

This one is in neutral.

Distributor

Carb

I agree... I need to figure why the timing lead needs to be there first. With all the carbs I've rigged onto this thing in the last 3 weeks none of them have changed anything and actually this carb is the only one that let's it idle at all.

Just soaked it...not ruling out a leak under the tin I guess..but nothing topside. Its didn't change, didn't sputter, didnt do anything. I am posting a you tube link..hope it works.

I see you have MSD.
Is your light MSD compatible?

I have had some great stories to tell how the timing was not where it read with MSD.
Good ignition, but timing lights can be finicky with it.

Might just be the way the camera picks up the sound....... but the valve train seems noisy.

Did you check v/p clearance on this motor?

Exhaust sounds extra quiet.

I wouldn’t expect that can to be particularly muffler friendly(or a very good match for the stock 301 manifold)....... especially quiet mufflers.

I think you need to leak it down.

I also agree you should borrow a non-dial back timing light.

Good advice on the timing light..but.... been there as well, have 2 that are older than dirt, non dial back, and they read correct on the 2 other machines in this garage with msd ignitions.

The sound is terrible due to the exhaust ends at the mufflers right ahead of the axle right now. Its actually an echo from under the car you can hear I think in the unfair to sound video.

I did clay the pistons with no head gasket and didnt even hit the .250 layer I had slabbed on.

Leak down test will be next before I tear the intake off. ..well..after replacing the pick up coil real quick. But the 2nd distributor did the same so I'm not tooooooo hopeful with that path yet...I'm going to try it..as I havent yet..I'm open to whatever that's less than a $300 "maybe" possibility. Until I have to anyway.

Thanks again everyone for the input...I did alot of troubleshooting before I turned here but uts been helpful.

Polarity on the pick-up wiring was my issue when this happened on a 360 with a MSD (I know you said you already checked this). What about the wiring itself? Unplug it at both ends and check both leads for a short between them and check both against body ground as well.

Next thing I would try is a known good ignition/coil/distributor wiring it up completely with new wire isolated from the existing.

I hate to ask but did you degree he cam? I may be the audio but I agree with Porter, that valve train sounds noisy and it really doesn't sound right.

Yes...once with heads off, later after break in with heads on. I am at 102 intake centerline and Howard's card and tech support verify 102 to 104. The video is not representative of the sound unfortunately. Standing at the front of the car you only hear exhaust, with ears at the covers you here the lash . (Solid lifters)