Any suggestions on a quality built 48RE 4wd going in 2006 2500?

Jason

Upgraded my 47 130k+ miles ago with a valve body kit and triple disc converter. Even used the factory steel/clutch/seal kit. Mines a dedicated tow rig. Not a hard trans to make live. If you’re looking for a “trans in a box” John Cope has em
http://coperacingtranscom.ipage.com/?product_cat=618-diesel

I have one of these from ATS and it's been bullet proof with some hard beating now and again. 150K or so. I've changed the oil and filter in it 3 times.

Another factor in a build is what “mods” to the engine and what weight are you pulling? ....and where you doing this at? By most accounts I’m pretty “light” at 17800lb combined, but as Dave can account for, lots of interesting grades and temperatures out here in the west.

I live at 2,000 ft. and every road out of here takes you every degree of the compass while you're generally following your heading. The only thing I can attest to is that a non-HO 2004 CTD with a TST Powermax set on 5 will flame the stock converter on lockup and bite the input shaft off! Billet input ATS to the purple people eating rescue, throw in a billet Banks converter and bounce off the egt limiter all day long at 40lbs. of boost!

Live at 500ft..... 3800ft pass to the west, 3600 to the east. And it’s not uncommon this time of year to start seeing pavement temps in the 150s.

I didn’t go billet, but I have spare everything laying around. My old tractor (01) would tear up stock converters and that was with my 24ft trailer. Edge EZ, RV 275 injectors, 30psi boost. Pretty mild, but it’s been very dependable. I bought my valve body kit and converter from Goerend. Have $1400 into the build.

I was told to check out Firepunk but didn't end up going that way.

Shift improver--for more pressure.
More clutches where possible.
Better torque converter--tighter!

My opinion, MOST do not need a multi disc converter when the VB is set up right.

Stock pressures are too low for about every application.

If a diesel application and much more torque is added--over 400hp-- a good input shaft is a must. If you don't you risk breaking it and a full rebuild will be needed.