Correct length for the 340 TA dual point distributor lead?
#2657556
05/21/19 12:47 PM
05/21/19 12:47 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,912 APACHE JUNCTION AZ
Joesixpack
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,912
APACHE JUNCTION AZ
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i have 2585019 nos distributor lead for 340 dual points, my customer installed it on his engine and it seems to be short...does anyone know the correct length of the lead wire from the distributor rubber grommet to the red electrical connector? i have enclosed pics he sent me of his original and the nos one installed on his engine i noticed that year 1 sells a repo lead for both 440+6 and 340+6 and says that they are the same lead, and it looks a lot longer than the one i have
Last edited by Joesixpack; 05/21/19 12:53 PM.
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Re: Correct length for the 340 TA dual point distributor lead?
[Re: BDW]
#2657707
05/21/19 07:20 PM
05/21/19 07:20 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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It needs to be in front of the sender. (1) turn the dampener to your desired initial (IE 18 btdc #1 compression) (2) clock intergear so with dist installed the rotor is pointing forward & slightly toward the pass side. (3) turn housing so the can is on the pass side in front of the sender with room to be turned a bit (4) then turn housing slightly till the nearest tooth is dead even with the magnet (5) plug in the #1 plug wire in the cap terminal directly above the rotor then the rest of em on around CW. Hopefully the rotor trailing edge is at the cap terminal trailing edge as rotor phasing will shift it back CCW (you have leeway there). EDIT & what Max said about the coil location (not my area).
Last edited by RapidRobert; 05/21/19 07:48 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Correct length for the 340 TA dual point distributor lead?
[Re: BDW]
#2657743
05/21/19 08:36 PM
05/21/19 08:36 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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Sure, You would stick a large screwdriver in the intergear slot & turn it CW to raise the teeth up above the cam gear teeth so it can turn CW (some intergears are tight with buildup & need a stout L shaped tool under it to get it to raise up). Just move it CW then let it set back down/mesh on the cam gear to where with the dist installed, the rotor is pointing forward & slightly toward the pass side (as you know the dist can be flipped 1/2 turn). Actually you can clock the intergear anywhere & just plug in the #1 above the rotor but maintaining the OE diagram (my suggestion) lets the plug wires nestle the neatest with the shortest lengths possible & keeping the OE setup on this area can help prevent future mistakes (not a dealbreaker but everything in a positive direction is a bennie). (1) clock it to OE (1A) can moved forward on pass side (3) coil location potential issue (not my area of knowledge). EDIT with this being dual points, I think they fire when the 2nd set of points "just" opens, grab your test light or ohmmeter. MORE EDIT prestolite dual point dist- with the can sideways toward the pass side (lets say that is 3 0'clock), the point wire is up at 1 0'clock
Last edited by RapidRobert; 05/21/19 11:37 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Correct length for the 340 TA dual point distributor lead?
[Re: BDW]
#2658869
05/24/19 07:38 PM
05/24/19 07:38 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,812 Portsmouth, VA
DusterW2
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,812
Portsmouth, VA
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Copy/paste from another website -
The no1 cylinder must be on the compression stroke, and the no1 wire must go to wherever the rotor points. If the rotor is NOT pointing to the "by the book" no 1 cap tower, it will run fine, but if you want to do it correctly it simply is not that difficult and takes VERY little time
To time a SB Mopar:
1--- Determine that no1 is on the firing stroke and there are two ways to do that. If either valve cover is still off, look at either the no1 or no6 valves, with the timing marks on TDC. IF both no1 valves are closed, no1 is ready to fire (compression) and if no6 valves are both closed, then no6 is ready to fire. BE CAREFUL because the opposite two will be nearly equally open (used to be called "split overlap) and it can fool you
The alternate way to determine compression, is to remove no1 plug, stick you finger in the hole, and either bump it on the starter, or wrench it around until you BEGIN to feel compression. You may need to go around once to be sure. When you start to feel compression, pay attention to the timing mark, and slowly bring the engine up NOT to TDC but to where you want the timing, IE 10-12 with a bone stock cam, or 15-20 with a hot cam
2---If there is any reason to suspect the distributor gear is in wrong, or this is a new build, bring the marks to TDC, and check the position of the slot in the gear. IT should point to the far left (drivers side) front intake manifold bolt, which is a close as you'll get to "straight ahead." If it does NOT, as the poster above suggested, just take a big screwdriver and "walk" the gear up out of the helix, and correct it
3---(If you performed step 2, back the engine up with a wrench about 1/8 turn, and bring the marks back NOT to TDC, but where you want the timing.)
Next, with the rotor pointing towards the area of the "by the book" no1 hole, and the vacuum can "in the clear away from the firewall, drop the distributor in. By rotating the distributor body, you should reach a point where the vacuum can is clear of the coil and the firewall, and the rotor is pointing to the no1 cap tower
4---Now, if you have points ignition, use a test lamp or ohmeter, rotate the dist. RETARD (cw) and move it slowly ADVANCE (ccw) until the points just open
If you have breakerless set the dist. so that the reluctor tip is centered in the pickup coil.
5---Start the engine!!!! Notice that I did not say, "prepare for fire out of the carburetor," nor did I say "screw endlessly with the distributor for hours on end."
If you followed this correctly the engine should start!!! and run!!!!
6---Now take your timing light and adjust the timing as necessary.
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